Video: Project Blue Collar: Complete Mustang Fuel System Upgrade
Published on 2014-01-23
One of the first steps to getting Project Blue Collar Mustang running was to replace the fuel tank and all its components. Blue Collar stopped running for the previous owner and it sat for a few years in the driveway. The gas became unusable during this time; which required us to remove the fuel tank, drain the bad gas/fuel and inspect the gas tank components. See our Mustang fuel/gas tank removal video here: http://youtu.be/RoD_Kjlzytk
With the fuel tank removed, we found that not only did we have bad fuel but we also had plenty of torn gaskets, grommets and a broken fuel tank baffle. This called for a full Mustang Fuel System upgrade -- new fuel/gas tank, new sending unit, new fuel pump, new vapor valve seal, new fuel filler neck grommet and new filler pipe to trunk floor rubber seal. To top off this complete fuel system overhaul we add a new fuel filter -- see our Mustang Fuel Filter Install video here: http://youtu.be/WtYTkS810ls.
Mustang Fuel Components Used in this Video:
** 5.0Resto 1987-93 Mustang Fuel Tank Kit with Efi (includes: tank, sending unit, lock rings with seals and filler neck grommet)
** 5.0Resto 1982-97 Mustang Fuel Filler Neck Grommet
** 5.0Resto 1979-93 Mustang Filler Pipe To Trunk Floor Rubber Seal
** 5.0Resto 1981-93 Mustang Fuel Tank Strap Pair
** 5.0 Resto 1979-97 Mustang Fuel Tank Vapor Valve Seal
** 5.0Resto 1987-93 Mustang Fuel Pump Bracket
** 1986-97 Mustang BBK 255 Lph Fuel Pump
** 1983-97 Mustang Motorcraft Fuel Filter for 2.3L, 3.8L, 4.6L, & 5.0L (part #
** 1987-97 Mustang Fuel Level Sending Unit
Give your Mustang the American muscle car power it needs with a new fuel system from LatemodelRestoration.com. Be sure to finish off your Project Fox Body Mustang with 5.0Resto parts!!
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Unfortunately, we do have to replace the fuel tank in Project Blue Collar, because the baffle is completely separated from the tank in our original. Now we'll show you how to transfer everything from your original tank to the new tank. And luckily, these exact same steps can be used even if you're replacing the fuel pump, or the sending unit, on your existing tank.
All right. We're going to start out by removing the fuel pump assembly from the original tank. Now you can use a small flat blade screwdriver, and remove the plastic clip that holds on the supply jumper line to the fuel pump assembly. And then use your fuel line remover tool to go ahead and move the fuel return line from the fuel pump assembly.
Unplug your electrical connector, remove the lock ring, then lift the fuel pump assembly from the tank. The sock was no longer attached to the bottom of the pump, because the baffle had moved around so much it tore it off.
All right, with your fuel pump assembly removed from the tank, you can go to your workbench, lay everything out, to replace your fuel pump. Now I wanted to point out the differences in the fuel pump assembly that you might see. On the fuel pump assembly that came out of Project Blue Collar, you have the supply tube that comes all the way out, and you have just a short piece of rubber hose that connects to the pump.
The more common style is like this, where the supply line come straight down. And you use the S-type hose that comes with your fuel pump. Now every fuel pump comes with this S-type hose. If you have the short link, like we have here, you just cut it down.
We're going to be going back in with BBK-1607 255 liter per hour fuel pump. It comes with all the hardware and wiring connections you need to install it back in your Mustang. Our fuel pump has already been replaced at some point in its life, but the connectors on a stock fuel pump, will look just like this.
Now to remove your fuel pump, you want to remove the two fasteners on the side of the assembly. That way you can gain access to the pump. Remove the hose. Remove the filter sock. And remove the pump from the hanger.
All right, with the fuel pump removed from the fuel pump assembly, we can go ahead and unhook the electrical connection. If your new fuel pump comes with a new electrical connector, go ahead and cut the wires coming out of the fuel pump assembly. Grab your new electrical connector, and the butt connector supplied with the fuel pump. Cut the connector pig tail to length. And use the supplied butt connectors to attach it to the wiring on the fuel pump assembly.
Now you can plug-in your new fuel pump. Remove the red protective cap off the bottom of the pump. And remove the grey protective cap off the top of the pump.
Grab the small rubber insulator, and slide it on to the pump inlet. And then grab your S-hose, and if required, cut it to length. Attach the hose to the fuel pump assembly. Tighten it down with one of the supplied clamps.
Slide the fuel pump outlet into the other side of the hose. And attach it with the other supplied clamp. Put your fuel pump back into the assembly, and reinstall the screws for the side of the assembly. With the assembly completely tightened back down, and the pump in place, you can attach your fuel pump strainer sock.
All right, with your fuel pump assembly completely put back together, you can go ahead and fold the stock into the tank. And then slide the pump assembly into place. You can take a peek through the filler neck hole, and make sure that the socket and pump find their way into the baffle properly. Slide the O-ring onto the fuel pump assembly, in between the assembly and the tank. Put your lock ring into place, and tap it into position.
To remove the sending unit from your fuel tank, you want to start by unclipping the electrical connector. Then tapping the lock ring to the unlocked position. Then you can lift the sending unit out of the tank.
All right, we've got our new 5.0 Resto fuel tank sending unit that fits '87 to '97 Mustang. It comes with a new O-ring, and a new lock ring. So whether you're going into your old tank, or a brand new one, it has you covered. Installation is simple. All you got do is slide it down into the tank, place your O-ring in the groove, and then lock your lock ring down into place.
All right. The last couple parts we need to remove from our old fuel tank to transfer over the new one is the vapor valve and hose. Possibly the seal. If your seal's messed up, we have new ones on our website. And the harness.
Now, both are easy to remove. You just pop up the vapor valve out of place, and you can remove the seal. And then you can pry the little retainer off the lip of the fuel tank that holds the harness on. And then you can transfer them to the new tank.
All right. To finish up the fuel tank before it's ready to go back into the car, you want to go ahead and install your vapor valve seal, whether you're reusing the old one or putting in a new one. Snap it into place, then you can snap the vapor valve and hose into place.
Grab your new fuel neck filler seal, slide it in the tank. And this is something you want to replace, even if you're reusing your old tank. Then grab your electrical harness. Click the retainer onto the pinch weld to the tank. Connect your sending unit. And then connect your fuel pump.
Grab your two supply and return jumper hoses. Snap the return hose onto its connector. And then slide the supply hose onto its connector. And lock it down into place with the plastic retainer that was included with your new fuel pump.
All right. On your original gas tank, you have a hole where the filler neck support bolt would go. On your new gas tank, you cannot drill that hole because of where they put the pinch weld. Now a quick solution is just to use a flat washer on the filler neck support, and then you can slide it on the tank pinch weld, and then just tighten the bolt down. And that will at least give it the support it needs.
All right. We've got our fuel tank completely put back together, and ready to go into the car. Completely optional step, transfer the insulator pads from the original tank to the new one. And definitely do not forget your 5.0 Resto filler neck seal, vapor valve seal, and the filler neck to trunk floor seal.
Now for more fuel system parts and install videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.