The 79-93 Mustang, better known as the Fox Body Mustang, is now 20-30 years old depending on what year model you own. After a couple of decades there are always parts that will need some restoration in any car; however, there are those few parts that you can bet will always need to be restored in a Fox Body Mustang. These parts include the headlights, ashtray door, and weatherstripping just to name a few parts. Casey, one of our salesmen, recently bought a GT model fox body to use as a daily driver. Casey’s GT was in need of some serious TLC; the weatherstripping was barely holding on (literally – it was held together with tape). So we set out to do some simple weatherstripping restoration on the car.
Using Casey’s Mustang GT, I will walk you through the simple process of replacing the door to body weatherstrip. If you have never replaced your door-to-body weatherstrip you will notice that it is crushed down, tearing apart, separating at the factory junction point (the lower right of the scuff plate) or a combination of all of the above. Follow these quick and easy steps and in less than an hour you will have fresh new door-to-body weatherstripping.
We used the 5.0Resto 79-93 Mustang Door to Body Weatherstrip to replace his worn out weatherstripping.
Remove plastic cover on the shoulder seat belt hinge by prying/pulling up and away on the cover. The cover can be put aside with all the removed parts.
Using the #50 torx bit, remove the shoulder seat belt bolt and lay the seat belt to the side.
Pull/pry off the upper headliner panel. If this hasn’t been removed before the clips can be very tight and my require you to pry with a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the plastic and metal panels.
Loosen/remove the screws that are holding the rear inner quarter paneling in place. I backed the screws out all the way and tightened them back about one turn so they stayed in place to avoid alignment issues later. I also loosened the rear coat hanger hook to give just a little extra room to pull the paneling back.
Loosen/remove the screws that are holding the A pillar panel in place. As with the rear quarter paneling, I backed the screws all the way out and then tightened it back one turn to leave everything in place.
You can now start pulling up the old weatherstrip. Use a slow controlled pull to avoid damaging the plastic panels that are used to hold the weatherstrip in place. Since you have loosened the screws holding the panels in place, the paneling will pull away enough to allow the weatherstrip to pull free of the metal body.
With the weatherstrip removed, you can now start to install the new weatherstrip. Where you start the install is more of a personal preference versus a right or wrong answer. As you saw from the removal, Ford put the junction of the two ends at the lower right corner of the door. I prefer to put this junction near the door hinges. I feel this puts the junction out of sight. This is important because over time the weatherstrip tends to shrink (as you saw with the old factory weatherstrip). Also, with the weatherstrip being at bottom you can hit and/or catch the junction getting in and out of our Mustang; thus, damaging this junction point. Plus if you put in a place that is a little bit more out of sight, if you make an ugly cut on the weatherstrip during the final step it is not as noticeable.
While installing the new weatherstrip be sure to press down firmly the whole length of the weatherstrip to ensure it is properly seated. You will feel a very slight pop or click as it fully seats into place. Once you work your way around where the ends meet you will notice you will have a couple extra inches of weatherstrip (this is normal, we provide a little extra). You will need to install the weatherstrip all the way to the point you started. You can use a screw driver to make a mark were to cut. You will want to give yourself roughly an extra 1/8 inch of material because the weatherstrip will compress and shrink down over time. Before marking and cutting make sure the weatherstrip is fully seated the whole length of the door, as this could cause you to incorrectly mark were to cut if you have a section not fully seated. Use the metal shears to cut your marked location and press the final few inches into place.
NOTE: with the new door-to-body weatherstripping installed you may notice your door is harder to shut for a while. This is normal and as the new weatherstripping breaks in and settles into place you will not have to “slam” your door shut.
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