Published on 2013-09-03
Product: 1979-93 Mustang Door To Body And Hatch/Trunk Weatherstrip Kit
Brand: 5.0 Resto
Fits: Mustang LX, GT, Coupe and Hatch
Year Models: 1979 (79) 1980 (80) 1981 (81) 1982 (82) 1983 (83) 1984 (84) 1985 (85) 1986 (86) 1987 (87) 1988 (88) 1989 (89) 1990 (90) 1991 (91) 1992 (92) 1993 (93)
LRS Part #: LRS-43720A-K
This is a door to body and trunk/hatchback weatherstrip kit for your 1979-1993 Mustang Coupe or Hatchback. This kit is made from high quality rubber weatherstrip and is made just like the factory components. Quick and easy installation!
* Some trimming may be needed, weatherstrip is shipped a little longer than the originals to ensure a proper installation.
Benefits & Features:
JONATHAN: Hey, everyone. J-Mac with latemodelrestoration.com. Today, we're here with Jeff, and we're going to be talking about weatherstripping for your '79 to '93 Mustang. Now, Jeff, what do we have in front of us here?
JEFF: Sure thing, J-Mac. Now, what we have here is the genuine 5.0 Resto brand door-to-body and trunk hatch weatherstrip kit. Each piece of this kit is available individually and in multiple other kits. Jonathan, how does this weatherstrip compare to the original?
JONATHAN: Man, it's very comparable to the original because it follows the exact same profiles, has the same attaching method, and it's even made out of the same material.
JEFF: All right. Now, the weatherstripping, does it only fit the coupe and hatchback?
JONATHAN: No way, Jeff. This will fit any '79 to '93 Mustang coupe, hatchback, convertible, or t-top. You just have to trim it to fit your application.
JEFF: All right, man. Appreciate the information. Let's go get this on the couple.
JONATHAN: All right, man. Let's do it. Now, to gain access to your door-to-body weatherstrip, you're going to want to start by removing this metal trim that runs in-between your A-pillar trim and your quarter trim panel. It's held in with two retaining clips. Simply pop it free. Once it's loose, you've got a single Phillips head screw at the back of you're A-pillar trim, and a single Phillips head screw at the front of your quarter panel trim.
Now, if you're tabs are broken like these, you really don't have to worry about removing those screws. But if you're tabs are still intact, definitely remove the screws. Your speaker grill is held in place with a single seven millimeter screw and a couple of clips. Remove that screw, pop the clips loose, and the speaker grill comes free. Then remove the lower Phillips head screw, and the Phillips head screw right above it in your A-pillar trim, and you can pull it back just off the weatherstrip. You don't have to fully remove it.
Then you can come down here to your scuff plate. You've got four Phillips head screws holding it on. Remove the scuff plate, then come up to your kick panel. You've got a single push pin at the front, and then there's a push pin on the back. You can pull it free and the kick panel comes loose.
And then you can move back here to your quarter trim panel, remove the plastic cover off the seat belt anchor, and then take a T50 Torx bit and remove the belt anchor bolt. Then grab your Phillips head screwdriver again. You've got a single Phillips head screw up here, and then two more Phillips head screws along the lower edge. Pull that quarter trim panel free of the weatherstrip, and you don't have to fully remove the panel. Once that's done, you can remove the weatherstrip off the pinch weld. I'm going to ahead and finish taking all this stuff loose.
Now, with all of your panels out of the way, you can go ahead and remove your door-to-body weatherstrip. And real quickly, I wanted to point out why it is you typically have to replace the weatherstrip. That's because it's all torn down here at the bottom, causing air leaks. Now, sometimes you'll see that tearing or maybe even some dry rot up at the top, and that also causes water leaks. To remove your weatherstrip, make note of where you're seam starts at, and then you can pick up on the weather stripping, and simply remove it all from the pitch weld, all the way around the doorway.
And with that old weather strip out the way, we can go ahead and start installing our new weatherstrip. Put the leading edge right where you're old seam was at and slide it down over the pinch weld. Then you can grab you a dead blow hammer, or maybe even a rubber mallet, just something that will help you seat that weatherstrip on the pinch weld, and then help you transition the corners. Working your way up the back of the pinch weld until you get up here to the corner, and this corner is typically where everybody has trouble. You end up getting a crease whenever you make this seam.
Now, if you take your time, fully seat the weatherstrip on the pinch weld and stretch it a little bit as you're making the transition through the corner, you won't end up with that crease. Just like that. Once you make that corner, then go ahead and finish pulling it around the pinch weld, and then we'll come back down to the bottom and make the final cut. That way our seam is correct.
Once you get your weatherstrip fully seated on the pinch weld around the door opening, you're going to find yourself back down here at the seam. Now, just go ahead and take your thumb and make a quick little mark, and leaving yourself a little bit extra slack than you think you might need. Then grab you a pair of hose cutters or trim molding cutters to make your cut in the weatherstrip. Once you make your cut in the weatherstrip, you can tuck that seam down into place and fully seat it on the pinch weld.
All right. I've got this all put back together. Now, Jeff is going to show you how to replace your trunk weatherstrip.
JEFF: The removal and installation of the trunk hatch weatherstripping is extremely easy. To start the removal, you simply pull the weatherstripping off the pinch weld. Continue to work the weatherstripping along the pinch weld until you remove it all. Now, our weatherstrip showed some sign of damage and wear. It's this kind of damage that actually leads to water intrusion in your trunk and hatch.
With the old weatherstrip removed, you can toss it aside and begin the installation. Start at the original seam point. Make sure the leading edge of the weatherstripping is facing out, and firmly press it down on the pinch weld. Now, this same piece of weatherstripping will fit your coupe, your hatch, or your convertible. Just like the door-to-body, you do have to trim it to fit. This installation is finished up.
Thanks for checking out another video from latemodelrestoration.com.
The 79-93 Mustang, better known as the Fox Body Mustang, is now 20-30 years old depending on what year model you own. After a couple of decades there are always parts that will need some restoration in any car; however, there are those few parts that you can bet will always need to be restored in a Fox Body Mustang. These parts include the headlights, ashtray door, and weatherstripping just to name a few parts. Casey, one of our salesmen, recently bought a GT model fox body to use as a daily driver. Casey’s GT was in need of some serious TLC; the weatherstripping was barely holding on (literally – it was held together with tape). So we set out to do some simple weatherstripping restoration on the car.
Using Casey’s Mustang GT, I will walk you through the simple process of replacing the door to body weatherstrip. If you have never replaced your door-to-body weatherstrip you will notice that it is crushed down, tearing apart, separating at the factory junction point (the lower right of the scuff plate) or a combination of all of the above. Follow these quick and easy steps and in less than an hour you will have fresh new door-to-body weatherstripping.
We used the 5.0Resto 79-93 Mustang Door to Body Weatherstrip to replace his worn out weatherstripping.
Remove plastic cover on the shoulder seat belt hinge by prying/pulling up and away on the cover. The cover can be put aside with all the removed parts.
Using the #50 torx bit, remove the shoulder seat belt bolt and lay the seat belt to the side.
Pull/pry off the upper headliner panel. If this hasn’t been removed before the clips can be very tight and my require you to pry with a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch the plastic and metal panels.
Loosen/remove the screws that are holding the rear inner quarter paneling in place. I backed the screws out all the way and tightened them back about one turn so they stayed in place to avoid alignment issues later. I also loosened the rear coat hanger hook to give just a little extra room to pull the paneling back.
Loosen/remove the screws that are holding the A pillar panel in place. As with the rear quarter paneling, I backed the screws all the way out and then tightened it back one turn to leave everything in place.
You can now start pulling up the old weatherstrip. Use a slow controlled pull to avoid damaging the plastic panels that are used to hold the weatherstrip in place. Since you have loosened the screws holding the panels in place, the paneling will pull away enough to allow the weatherstrip to pull free of the metal body.
With the weatherstrip removed, you can now start to install the new weatherstrip. Where you start the install is more of a personal preference versus a right or wrong answer. As you saw from the removal, Ford put the junction of the two ends at the lower right corner of the door. I prefer to put this junction near the door hinges. I feel this puts the junction out of sight. This is important because over time the weatherstrip tends to shrink (as you saw with the old factory weatherstrip). Also, with the weatherstrip being at bottom you can hit and/or catch the junction getting in and out of our Mustang; thus, damaging this junction point. Plus if you put in a place that is a little bit more out of sight, if you make an ugly cut on the weatherstrip during the final step it is not as noticeable.
While installing the new weatherstrip be sure to press down firmly the whole length of the weatherstrip to ensure it is properly seated. You will feel a very slight pop or click as it fully seats into place. Once you work your way around where the ends meet you will notice you will have a couple extra inches of weatherstrip (this is normal, we provide a little extra). You will need to install the weatherstrip all the way to the point you started. You can use a screw driver to make a mark were to cut. You will want to give yourself roughly an extra 1/8 inch of material because the weatherstrip will compress and shrink down over time. Before marking and cutting make sure the weatherstrip is fully seated the whole length of the door, as this could cause you to incorrectly mark were to cut if you have a section not fully seated. Use the metal shears to cut your marked location and press the final few inches into place.
NOTE: with the new door-to-body weatherstripping installed you may notice your door is harder to shut for a while. This is normal and as the new weatherstripping breaks in and settles into place you will not have to “slam” your door shut.
Shop our complete line of Fox Body Mustang weatherstripping below!!