After a hard thrash, we were staring at a 1997 Mustang Cobra that was ready to fire its 5.0L TiVct Coyote powerplant for the first time. So we did - and it was awesome! No muss, no fuss, just turned the key and she fired right up. I wish all engine swaps went this smoothly!
We were able to keep our existing exhaust and you can do the same, whether it is a full catback or dumps. We used the BBK Coyote Swap Long Tube Headers and 3" Off-Road x-pipe.
We saved lots of green here by reusing the existing 8.8" rear end, Ford Racing Aluminum Driveshaft, Tremec 3550 transmission, Quick Time Bellhousing, clutch and flywheel from our previous 4.6L 4V. We did add in a Stifflers Transmission Crossmember to allow additional clearance for the massive 3" x-pipe.
We originally intended to use the FRPP Power Steering Pump Mounting Bracket, but it would not clear the anti-sway bar. Plus it would have required custom power steering hoses. So we enlisted our SVE Coyote Accessory Drive Kit to solve our problems. It moves the alternator over to the passenger side and keeps the power steering pump in the stock 96-04 location allowing us to keep the stock hoses and lines.
The anti-sway bar struck again as it would not clear the stock Coyote 5.0 oil filter location. Ford Racing solves the issue with their remote oil filter adapter. It allowed us to plumb in a remote oil filter kit with our existing engine oil cooler.
If you are converting a 1996-2004 Mustang GT or Cobra, you can retain the stock hydro-boost brake system. You can convert 1979-1993 Fox Mustang, 1994-1995 Mustang, and 1996-2004 V6 Mustang to hydroboost to keep power brakes, or manual brakes are always an option.
We were able to keep the 4.6 radiator, electric cooling fan, and de-gas bottle. The upper radiator hose included with the FRPP control pack worked like a charm, but the lower required a bit more thought. Luckily we found the solution with our SVE Coyote Swap lower radiator hose. If you are running power steering, you will need to fabricate a shield to keep the hose away from the pump pulley
Because of the driver side air inlet location, a battery relocation to the trunk is in order. Moving the air inlet to the passenger side isnt an option because of interference with the upper radiator hose. Also out of the question is a 79-85 battery location as the battery will hit the valve cover.
Next up for Project: Coyote Swap is a trip to the dyno to see exactly what she's putting down to the tires!
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Published on 2013-06-05 In the video Jmac walks you through the final steps we had to complete before we could start our Bondurant Cobra Coyote Swap. He quickly rehighlights the BBK Coyote Swap headers, off road x pipe and the dumped cat back system we have in place. He also highlights the Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft, Quicktime bellhousing, Stifflers tubular crossmembers and other driveline items we used in the swap. Lastly Jmac hits on some of the most critical parts of this Mustang Coyote swap - the brake system, oil system and the power steering system.
To retain the sway bar, we were forced to relocate the oil filter and find another solution for power steering pump bracket. We used the Ford Racing Remote Oil Filter adapter, M6881M50, to accomplish moving the oil filter. We tried to use the Ford Racing Power Steering Pump Bracket, M8511M50BR, but unfortunately it would not clear the sway bar. So we turned to the SVE accessory brackets to give us all needed clearance. It even allows for us to easily keep the hydroboost system by putting the power steering pump in the factory 96-04 location.
The engine wiring harness plugged right into the Ford Racing Controls Pack with no issue. Next up we connected our braided fuel line to the fuel rail with the help of our 5.0L fuel rail adapter fitting, RUS-640853. With that done, we now had the brakes hooked up, the engine plugged into the ecu, the fuel connected to the motor. Next on the list is connecting the clutch assembly to the pedal. We reused the existing clutch cable and routed it around the new 5.0L engine. We also addressed the coolant lines to hook the engine up to the radiator. The only thing missing at this point is electrical power. You will have to use a battery relocation kit to move the battery to the trunk.
With that complete the LatemodelRestoration.com Mustang Coyote Swap officially runs! Now it is time get this Cobra to the dyno to she how much extra power we are making!
Transcript 0:00:03 - 0:00:27 Now the moment we've all been waiting for. The fluids are topped off. Fuel in the tank. We’re going to powered up and turn the key. Man she sounds pretty healthy doesn't she? Let’s show you why.
0:00:27 - 0:00:46 Let’s start at the back and move all the way to the front. We will show you everything we did to button this thing together. we're able to keep the existing exhaust and you can do the same whether it's a cat back or dumps like we have here. We bolted them up to the massive bbk x pipe and then bolted that to the BBK long tube headers. Just for 79-04 mustang coyote swaps.
0:00:46 - 0:01:10 For the drivetrain we used a ford racing aluminum driveshaft and we were trained the bell housing transmission clutch and flywheel that were already in the car with the 4.6L. That’s a Quick Time bell housing with a Tremec 3550 transmission. The 11 inch clutch and eleven inch 8 bolt flywheel wear already in the car. To keep the transmission steady in the car, we turned to stifflers for one of their tubular cross members that way we can clear that massive BBK x pipe.
0:01:10 - 0:01:41 Moving up to the front we ran into a little interference so to speak. Both revolving around sway bar. One was oil filter. we need to go ahead and move the oil filter to remote location and to do that we use the ford racing remote oil filter adapter. Over on the other side we try to use the ford racing power steering pump bracket which would work great on a street rod or maybe some other vehicle not running a stock sway bar but if you're in a fox body or SN95 new edge and you want to keep your sway bar, man that bracket is not going work.
0:01:41 - 0:02:17 So we went to our SVE accessory drive kit which actually moved the alternator from the driver's side and spun it around and put it in front of the motor on the passenger side and they kept the power steering pump in the stock 96-04 location. This allowed us to use the factory pump and keep the factory hoses from the hydra boost to the steering rack. For the brakes you've got two options. You can go with a manual brake conversion or if you're working with the 96-04 mustang like we are you can retain the stock hydraboost 79-95 mustangs can be converted to hydroboost by sourcing all the parts from a wrecked 96-04 GT or cobra.
0:02:17 - 0:02:40 The engine harness that comes on the ford racing crate motor plugs right into the pcm for the control pack. to connect our braided fuel line to the stock fuel rail on the crate motor we used one of our adapter fittings which is a simple push on installation the existing clutch cable routed around the coyote 5.0L just like it did with the 4.6L it replaced.
0:02:40 – 0:03:03 The cooling system retaining existing d gas reservoir as well as the radiator. we were able to use the upper radiator hose included in the FRPP control pack. The lower hose however did not work. After some careful searching we did come up with a solution. But when doing a swap like this, there's always a but, we did have two fab up a little shield to keep the hose out of the power steering pulley.
0:03:03 - 0:03:07 Because of the driver’s side air inlet location of the coyote motor, you will also have to install a battery relocations kit. you can't really relocate the air inlet to the passenger side because of the upper radiator hose and you can't run a 79-85 battery location on the passenger side because of interference with the valve cover subscriber or YouTube channel for more on this project and check out LatemodelRestoration.com for all of your Coyote Swap needs!
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