Published on 2013-06-05
In the video Jmac walks you through the final steps we had to complete before we could start our Bondurant Cobra Coyote Swap. He quickly rehighlights the BBK Coyote Swap headers, off road x pipe and the dumped cat back system we have in place. He also highlights the Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft, Quicktime bellhousing, Stifflers tubular crossmembers and other driveline items we used in the swap. Lastly Jmac hits on some of the most critical parts of this Mustang Coyote swap - the brake system, oil system and the power steering system.
To retain the sway bar, we were forced to relocate the oil filter and find another solution for power steering pump bracket. We used the Ford Racing Remote Oil Filter adapter, M6881M50, to accomplish moving the oil filter. We tried to use the Ford Racing Power Steering Pump Bracket, M8511M50BR, but unfortunately it would not clear the sway bar. So we turned to the SVE accessory brackets to give us all needed clearance. It even allows for us to easily keep the hydroboost system by putting the power steering pump in the factory 96-04 location.
The engine wiring harness plugged right into the Ford Racing Controls Pack with no issue. Next up we connected our braided fuel line to the fuel rail with the help of our 5.0L fuel rail adapter fitting, RUS-640853. With that done, we now had the brakes hooked up, the engine plugged into the ecu, the fuel connected to the motor. Next on the list is connecting the clutch assembly to the pedal. We reused the existing clutch cable and routed it around the new 5.0L engine. We also addressed the coolant lines to hook the engine up to the radiator. The only thing missing at this point is electrical power. You will have to use a battery relocation kit to move the battery to the trunk.
With that complete the LatemodelRestoration.com Mustang Coyote Swap officially runs! Now it is time get this Cobra to the dyno to she how much extra power we are making!
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Now the moment we've all been waiting for. The fluids are topped off. Fuel in the tank. We’re going to powered up and turn the key. Man she sounds pretty healthy doesn't she? Let’s show you why.
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Let’s start at the back and move all the way to the front. We will show you everything we did to button this thing together. we're able to keep the existing exhaust and you can do the same whether it's a cat back or dumps like we have here. We bolted them up to the massive bbk x pipe and then bolted that to the BBK long tube headers. Just for 79-04 mustang coyote swaps.
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For the drivetrain we used a ford racing aluminum driveshaft and we were trained the bell housing transmission clutch and flywheel that were already in the car with the 4.6L. That’s a Quick Time bell housing with a Tremec 3550 transmission. The 11 inch clutch and eleven inch 8 bolt flywheel wear already in the car. To keep the transmission steady in the car, we turned to stifflers for one of their tubular cross members that way we can clear that massive BBK x pipe.
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Moving up to the front we ran into a little interference so to speak. Both revolving around sway bar. One was oil filter. we need to go ahead and move the oil filter to remote location and to do that we use the ford racing remote oil filter adapter. Over on the other side we try to use the ford racing power steering pump bracket which would
work great on a street rod or maybe some other vehicle not running a stock sway bar but if you're in a fox body or SN95 new edge and you want to keep your sway bar, man that bracket is not going work.
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So we went to our SVE accessory drive kit which actually moved the alternator from the driver's side and spun it around and put it in front of the motor on the passenger side and they kept the power steering pump in the stock 96-04 location. This allowed us to use the factory pump and keep the factory hoses from the hydra boost to the steering rack. For the brakes you've got two options. You can go with a manual brake conversion or if you're working with the 96-04 mustang like we are you can retain the stock hydraboost 79-95 mustangs can be converted to hydroboost by sourcing all the parts from a wrecked 96-04 GT or cobra.
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The engine harness that comes on the ford racing crate motor plugs right into the pcm for the control pack. to connect our braided fuel line to the stock fuel rail on the crate motor we used one of our adapter fittings which is a simple push on installation the existing clutch cable routed around the coyote 5.0L just like it did with the 4.6L it replaced.
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The cooling system retaining existing d gas reservoir as well as the radiator. we were able to use the upper radiator hose included in the FRPP control pack. The lower hose however did not work. After some careful searching we did come up with a solution. But when doing a swap like this, there's always a but, we did have two fab up a little shield to keep the hose out of the power steering pulley.
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Because of the driver’s side air inlet location of the coyote motor, you will also have to install a battery relocations kit. you can't really relocate the air inlet to the passenger side because of the upper radiator hose and you can't run a 79-85 battery location on the passenger side because of interference with the valve cover subscriber or YouTube channel for more on this project and check out LatemodelRestoration.com for all of your Coyote Swap needs!
It time to start our Project Coyote Swap. This is a must watch video! We cover a lot of topics in this one.