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How To Install A Mustang Hurst Shifter (11-14 S197)

Posted 11/19/2013 by Jeff Jimenez

Get the classic American muscle styling and improve shift quality with the Billet Plus Shifter for 2011-14 Mustangs. Check out our Install article here!

FOLLOW: mustang , 10 14 mustang , s197 , installation , tech , hurst , driveline , shifter

Once the buzz about the new Hurst Short Throw Shifter for the 2011-12 Mustang hit, we knew we needed to get an installation blog going on one since this isn't your typical 2011-12 Mustang shifter! This Hurst shifter incorporates a few new things that most other aftermarket shifters don't include and some features we were a little skeptical about at first.

hurstshift

Engineered for more positive and precise gear changes, these shifters reduce knob travel by 27% for a shorter throw, allowing for quicker shifts. They are constructed of precision-machined 6061-T6 billet aluminum for ultimate strength. The new Hurst Billet Plus Shifter eliminates the sloppy feeling that many stock factory Mustang shifters commonly are known for. The Hurst shifter features a high ratio pivot mechanism for quicker, shorter throws while also improving your shift characteristics and features an integrated adjustable reverse lock-out detent that eliminates the clunky OEM push-down style lock-out which makes it easier to use.

kitpic

This shifter comes with more than you could ever ask for with any other shifter on the market. Not only does it come with the quality shifter, chrome stick and white Hurst logo knob, it also includes a shorter shift handle that accepts your factory knob, a new urethane shifter bracket bushing, a tube of grease and all the hardware needed for the installation!

On to the fun part, installing the New Hurst Shifter in Project Six Appeal! First up you will need to remove your shift knob and upper console. Make sure to unplug the switch panel that houses your traction control, hazard lights and trunk button and if you have illuminated cup holders, you will need to unplug those as well. Now move you wiring harness out of the way and remove the piece of insulation. Then simply pop the rubber shift boot off and place to the side.

consoleshiftboot

Now, you will need to jack the up (We choose the driver's side) and make sure it is securely supported by jack stands. After your Mustang is off the ground, you will need to remove the shifter bushing/bracket. This is held on with 2 10MM nuts. You will need to use a long extension and a deep well socket in order to remove this quickly and easily. As you can see in the pictures the nuts are easy to access. After the 2 nuts are removed slowly pull down on the bushing/bracket assembly and slide it off the rear of the shifter bracket. This will take a little force but should pop right off. I only have a picture of the studs and nuts because you can't really get a camera over the driveshaft to get a good picture.

braketstuds

Once you have removed this shifter bushing and bracket, it is time to head back to the inside of the Mustang to remove the stock or in my case Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter. You might be wondering why we didn't remove the shifter at the same time we removed the shift knob and console....well once you remove the shifter bushing and bracket, the shifter actually drops down making the bolts much easier to access. The shifter bolts are 10MM, simply unbolt and keep the bolts to reuse on the Hurst shifter.

shifter unbolt

After removing the shifter you will need to remove the damper bushing from the bottom of the shifter. This simply pops off and will need to be put on the Hurst shifter. Make sure to use the supplied grease on both the shifter ball and the damper. Now all you need to do is grab the new gasket that comes with the shifter and bolt the new shifter into place. I installed the shifter handle to help me guide the shifter into place while bolting it down, then removed it to keep from damaged it.

shifterinpic

Now you will need to get ready to head back under the Mustang one more time. Grab your old shifter bushing/bracket and cut the two zip time holding the stock rubber bushing on. The bushing will slide right out and you can drop the new urethane bushing in place and secure with two of the supplied zip ties. I also added a third zip tie to the bottom once I installed the bracket just for a little extra strength. The bracket has a long ear and a short ear, the short side points toward the driver's side. Then simply pop in back on to the shifter bracket and re-install the 2 10MM nuts. It helps to have a buddy pull up on top of the shifter from inside the car to get everything lined back up and bolted in correctly.

bracket

After reinstalling the bracket with the new bushing inside, make sure and test the shifter to see if you like the spring pressure to put the car in reverse. I felt the factory setting was a little too soft so I choose to tighten up the spring as seen below. All you need to do is remove the shifter and tighten the hex bolt as shown in the picture below. If you choose to do this just follow the same steps when re-installing the shifter until you reach your desired spring pressure.

adjustmentbolt

Now you will need to install the lower shifter boot with the boot support. For this picture you will see I am using the stock style handle designed for the factory knob. Slide the boot support on to the bottom of the shift handle to where it is above both bolt holes. You will now re-install you lower rubber shift boot and zip tie the top edges of it around the boot support.

lowerboot

Next up is the tricky part, you will need to take your console top panel, flip it over and turn your shift boot inside out and remove the plastic shell located inside. This is glued in and all you need to do is slowly pull up on the edges and it will pop right off. My car has already had this removed since I was using the Steeda Shift Knob and Collar. Once you have removed the collar, you will need to take one of the supplied rubber boot supports and zip tie the boot around the support from the inside.

outerboot

After this is done you are ready to re-install you console top panel and shift knob. Carefully place your console top panel back into position and plug in your all of your harnesses. Now you need to slowy push down on the rubber boot support to slide it down on to the chrome shifter handle. Position this boot support right below the Hurst logo and make sure all of your clips are correctly installed on the console top panel. Last but not least, install the jam nut on to the top of the shifter handle and screw on your new Hurst shift knob!

finsihed

That was pretty much every step listed for installing a shifter in any new 2011-12 Mustang with a MT-82 6 speed transmission, I may have taken a couple of little short cuts since this is about my 5th shifter install on the new 2011-12 Mustang platform, but Hurst sends awesome instructions to help you through every step of the way.

Hurst has one more surprise for us that really makes this shifter unique to any other on the market. This new Hurst shifter eliminates the "push-down" feature that comes standard on a new Mustang to put the car in reverse. Before you would have to push down on the shift knob and pull the shifter all the way to the left and push it forward into reverse, well Hurst just made this a lot easier.......Now all you have to do is pull over and push forward to put the Mustang in reverse. Sound strange? It's actually pretty awesome and much easier. You might be wondering "How will I know when I am in reverse is I don't have to push down anymore and first and reverse are virtually in the same place?" Well Hurst has you covered here too...

The new shifter includes wiring and an LED light that mounts on the driver side pillar (or anywhere else you want to put it) that illuminates when the part is put in reverse. This is very innovative and adds a little extra "cool" factor to the entire shifter installation. Now we know this may scare some people because you don't want to drill a hole in your brand new Mustang. Well fortunately for us, we had our that has already seen its fair share of major modifications so it wasn't too much of a worry for us.

To start this installation you will need to remove the rear trunk panel. This will give you access to the taillight wiring harness. On the driver's side taillight harness, unplug the harness, take the lower female plug and locate the black and green with tan/grey stripe wires. This will be your ground and your reverse light wire. Next take the supplied wiring and place the silver wire in the posi-tap attached to the black wire and the copper wire into the posi-tap attached to the green/tan/grey wire.

wiringtrunk

Run the wiring in a secure place under the side paneling in the trunk, I chose to zip tie mine to the harness that runs through the trunk area as you can see in the picture above minus the zip ties. Once you reach the back seat fold the driver's side rear seat down and tuck the wire under the paneling down to the scuff plate. Once you reach the scuff plate you will need to gently pull up on the plate and it should pop off allowing you to remove the kick panel trim as well. The kick panel has one push pin holding it in and then it will also pop out. Continue running the wire up to the dash keeping it away from shape objects. Make sure to zip tie you wiring to secure locations once you have gotten your wire run to the proper location.

panelremoval

Once you have run the wire up to the dash, you will need to remove A-pillar trim. Gently pull on this and it should pop right off. Make sure to start at the back and work your way forward towards the dash. Now that you have the pillar removed, pick a place where you would like to mount the light. I choose as far down in the corner as I felt safe with. This location will hide the hole very well if you ever choose to take the light out. Once you select your location, drill a 1/4" hole and slide the LED light in from the top.

Now you will need to use the supplied butt connectors and crimp your wires together that you previously ran up through the dash. You will connect the copper wire to the red wire and the silver wire to the black wire.

pillarwire

Now you are ready to re-install your pillar, kick panel and scuff plate. Simply pop them back into place just like they were removed,

final

and guess what?! Your installation is complete! You can now enjoy your new Hurst Shifter in your 2011-12 Ford Mustang! I have to say out of the 4 shifters I have tried this is one of the smoothest and shortest throws yet! Have fun!

And maybe just one more glamour shot of the 2011 Mustang V6 Project Six Appeal!

nplate

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How To Install A Mustang Hurst Shifter (11-14 S197) Tech Info

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