[MUSIC PLAYING] What's up, everyone? Landan, with LatemodelRestoration.com. Today, we're going to show you a step-by-step install for the Ford Racing ROUSH Performance Phase One Supercharger kit for your 2015 Mustang GT. Like any install video here at LatemodelRestoration.com, we offer only the meat and potatoes while still covering the smallest of details to produce the best install videos on YouTube.
Ford Racing and ROUSH Performance did a perfect job writing the installation instructions for the Phase One Supercharger kit. Before we tackled this install, we pre-read the instructions and figured out a few shortcuts to save us a little time and work, one of which we did not drain the coolant, since this can be tedious and didn't want to risk any potential air pockets in the cooling system.
Another quick shortcut was not removing the water pump. The instructions call for removal to make cutting of the time and Cover Bosses a little easier. However, pulling the water pump pulley is really all you need to do to have a little more cutting room. Now, let's show you a step-by-step install video of the Ford Racing ROUSH Performance Phase One Supercharger kit.
Before you begin installation, disconnect the fuel pump driver module, which is located underneath the rear seat on the driver's side. Then, start the car and allow it to idle until it stalls. Remove the three battery cover retainers and disconnect both battery cables with a 10-millimeter socket. If equipped, remove the four nuts and strut tire brace with the 15-millimeter socket and then lift up on the engine cover to get it out of your way. Both the engine cover and strut tire brace cannot be reused after the supercharger is installed.
Disconnect the mass airflow sensor, remove the plastic pushpin holding the mass airflow wire to the factory air-box, and remove the 10-millimeter bolts that hold the factory air-box in place. Disconnect all vacuum lines, the PCV connection, and sound tube from the factory intake pipe.
Loosen the hose clamp that holds the factory intake to the throttle body with the seven-millimeter socket. Pull back on the factory intake pipe and then remove the intake from the car. Remove the driver-side PCV connection and hose from the car. Disconnect the passenger-side PCV from the factory intake manifold. Disconnect the throttle body connector by pulling back on the red tab and pressing the black release tab to remove it.
Unlock the green connector and disconnect the Evaporative Emission Canister Purge Valve, or EECPV. Mark a cut line on the left-hand side of the K brace using the wiper cowl as a guide. Remove the six pushpins on the cowl trim panel and lift up on the panel to remove the two nuts and five bolts that hold the K brace in place. Slide the K brace out from the cowl trim panel and remove it from the vehicle.
To remove the sound tube, pry up on the pushpin located on the strut tower. Then, remove the 10-millimeter nut on the firewall. Remove the two nuts that secure the brake booster vacuum hose and heater hose support bracket to the intake manifold. Disconnect the brake booster vacuum hose from the port at the firewall and remove the brake boost vacuum hose from the car and set it aside, since this will be modified later.
Then, remove the evaporative emission canister purge valve by releasing it from the retainer on the driver-side cam cover and disconnect the green quick connect on the firewall. Remove the foam fuel rail cover on the driver side. Remove the two nuts on the passenger side holding the heater hose bracket. Then, remove the passenger-side foam fuel rail cover.
Next, unplug all eight fuel injector connections. Remove the six intake manifold mounting bolts and the four fuel rail bolts. The four fuel rail bolts will be reused, and removal of the rails is optional.
Be sure and depressurize the coolant system by loosening the coolant reservoir cap. With a pair of hose clamp removal pliers, remove the 3/8 engine coolant hose. Using a fuel line disconnect tool, disconnect the fuel supply hose from the firewall and from the fuel rail. Have some old rags ready to catch any fuel that will come out of the lines. Lift up on the factory intake manifold and bring it forward to prepare for the next steps.
With the intake manifold moved forward, disconnect the CMCV harness. This is done by cutting the retaining clip. Be careful not to cut the harness itself. Then, disconnect the four harness connectors and remove the two harness pushpins that are at the rear of the intake manifold. Go ahead and remove the factory intake manifold from the car.
Take this time to cap off any open coolant lines, coolant reservoir, and the fuel supply line near the firewall. Remove the two 10-millimeter bolts that hold the coolant reservoir to the fan shroud and carefully lay it to the side. Disconnect the electrical fan harness connector on the cooling module.
Remove the two 10-millimeter bolts that secure the shroud to the cooling module. Then, remove the fan assembly from the car. Take this time to carefully wipe down the cylinder head intake ports and cover both sides with quality masking or painter's tape.
Moving underneath the car, remove the lower closeout panel bolts with the seven-millimeter socket. Remove all the attached pushpins, including the two behind the splash shield, and then remove the lower closeout panel from the car. Now, you can remove the passenger-side front wheel. Remove the two outer bolts on the factory radiator support bracket. Insert the rubber grommets and metal sleeves in the lower tab on the included heat exchanger. Install the heat exchanger into position using the two previously removed bolts.
Torque to 25 Newton-meters or 18 foot-pounds. Install the two J clips on both frame rail ends. Using the supplied brackets, install them into the correct orientation and tie them down to 25 Newton-meters or 18 foot-pounds with the supplied nuts and bolts. Grab the hose that makes up three sides of a square and position this through the closeout panel.
Install one of the included hose clamps and slide the hose over the barb on the heat exchanger. Go ahead and install another included hose clamp onto the other end of the hose, which will connect to the intercooler pump. Using the intercooler pump bracket as a template, place the pump bracket against the frame behind the wiper fluid reservoir mounting bracket and mark both holes.
Drill two pilot holes with an 1/8-inch bit. Then, follow those up with the stated 3/8 bit. Position the intercooler pump into the bracket and tighten it down with the included bolt to seven foot-pounds. Slide the previously installed coolant hose and slide it over the barb on the pump. Position the pump and pump bracket over the two drill holes and tighten it down with the included bolts to 18 foot-pounds.
Finally, position the clamp over the hose and the barb on the pump. With the included electrical harness, connect the intercooler pump and lay the remaining connections out of the way. Using the longer, straighter hose, slide an included hose clamp over the end that will connect to the outlet on the intercooler pump.
Slide it over the barb on the pump and position the hose clamp into place. Moving to the driver's side of the heat exchanger, position the other square-looking hose into place. Slide an included hose clamp over the hose and position it onto the driver-side heat exchanger barb.
The next steps are very important and will require a steady hand, since you will be modifying the timing cutter. There will be three areas that need modification. You can use a cut-off wheel, Dremel tool, or drill out and cut the holes as we did. We had a few bits meant for machine work laying around, so we threw them in the drill and started drilling. Have some WD-40 close by to provide additional lubrication to the timing cover.
Once the holes were drilled, we used a body saw and metal blade to cut the bosses on the timing cover. The boss closest to the water pump will need to be cut in half. Next, use a similar cutting tool to remove material from the boss located in the intake valley behind the water pump. Cut uniformly along the boss at an angle, using WD-40 as a lubricant. Once all the cuts have been made, take this time to vacuum up the metal shavings.
Loosen the two 10-millimeter bolts that hold the night sensors to the engine block. Rotate them until they touch the cylinder heads and tighten the bolts back down to 14 to 22 foot-pounds. Locate the throttle position sensor connector and harness at the front of the passenger-side cylinder head. Using a proper de-pinning tool, pop out the locking tab and remove the connector from the harness.
Depress the locking tab and separate the empty female connector from the new TPS ETC extension harness. Populate the new connector such that the yellow with violet wire is in position one, the blue with green wire is in position two, the brown wire is in position three, the blue with orange wire is in position four, the yellow wire is in position five, and the green with violet wire is in position six.
Install the red plastic lock into the connector to secure the wires in place. Connect the TPS ETC extension harness to the newly installed connector. Locate the evaporative emissions canister purge valve electrical connector at the front of the passenger-side cylinder head. Use a proper de-pinning tool to remove the connector from the harness.
Depress the locking tab and separate the empty female connector from the evaporative emissions canister purge valve. Carefully pull the white locking tab forward to allow the wires to be installed into the connector. Populate the new connector such that the white with brown wire is in position one and the green wire is in position two.
Connect the evaporative emissions canister purge valve extension harness to the newly installed connector. Lift up the fuse box lid by releasing the two retaining tabs. Then, connect the red positive cable to the first post on the fuse box and the black negative cable to the ground near the strut tower brace. Set these connections aside, as we will wrap them later.
Towards the back of the engine block, disconnect the radio capacitor and plug the intercooler pump harness in line with this connector. On the front of the timing cover, remove the nut that holds the main wiring harness ground. Then, remove the stud along with the four bolts, as shown in the instructions on page 60.
Release the tension on the factory tensioner and remove the belt and set it aside, since it will be reused. Now, cut and remove the AC compressor belt and discard, since it will not be reused. Remove the three water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley. With the included tensioner bracket, wrap a new belt through the pulleys and position it onto the timing cover.
Torque the bottom two tensioner bolts to 18 foot-pounds. Next, position the front end accessory drive bracket onto the timing cover. Reinstall one of the previously removed bolts and the five included bolts to the front end accessory drive bracket and torque to 18 foot-pounds. Then, install the two included idler pulleys onto the machine posts on the front end accessory drive bracket. Don't forget the top bolt behind the upper pulley that connects the front end accessory drive bracket to the intake manifold.
Secure the pulleys using the two included bolts and washers and torque to 18 foot-pounds. Reinstall the water pump pulley and ground wire to the upper front end accessory drive bracket. Then, wrap the factory belt back into its correct orientation. Retrieve the brake vacuum hose and aspirator assembly and place it on a workbench.
Remove the hose clamp and remove the first section from the brake booster hose and aspirator assembly. Release the hose clamp and remove the check valve from the straight end hose. On the other end of the hose, cut off one inch and remove the convolute as necessary.
Connect the included 1/2-inch to 3/8-inch hose reducer and secure it with a clamp. Return to the tube assembly and remove the foam sleeve from the brake aspirator. Release the clamp and separate the second section from the steel tube. Cut and remove the curved nylon tube from the brake aspirator. Mark a line two inches from the bend coming from the aspirator and cut the hose.
On the straight hose, mark and cut two inches from the end of the hose. Then, insert the brake booster check valve on the end and secure it with the clamp. Cap the open port on the brake aspirator with the included cap plug. Remove the convolute and carefully cut and remove the quick connect fittings from both ends of the old EECPV line.
Install the protective hose sleeve over the 36-inch 3H rubber hose. Install two of the included hose clamps on the ends of the new hose. Install the quick connect fittings on the ends of the new hose and secure them with the clamps. Remove the two eight-millimeter bolts and the evaporative emission canister purge valve from the stock intake manifold.
Install the valve into the rear of the supercharger using the two included bolts and torque them to six to nine foot-pounds. Connect the supercharger boost bypass actuator hose to the top port on the actuator and route it to the small port on the supercharger. Connect the brake boost hose to the 90-degree tube at the rear of the supercharger and secure it with the clamp.
Connect the supercharger bypass reference vacuum line to the bottom fitting on the supercharger bypass actuator. Place the intercooler reservoir template on the top of the fan shroud and align it with the shroud features. Use a center punch or blade to mark the areas needed for modification. Remove the template and further mark the areas to better assist with making the modifications. Go ahead and cut the marked areas with a cutting tool.
Place the template back over the shroud and drill pilot holes for the reservoir bolts. Finish those holes with a bit large enough to slide the included J clips through. Slide the two included J clips through the top rectangular cutouts on the shroud and the small included clip at the bottom rectangular cutout.
Before you install the supercharger intake manifold and intercooler assembly, plug the sound tube hole with the included body plug. Attach the rubber hose from the included PCV purge hose to the barb at the rear of the supercharger intake manifold. With the intercooler covered, remove the tape from the cylinder heads and position the supercharger intake manifold in place. Install the six included bolts into the intake manifold and torque them to six to nine foot-pounds, following the correct torque sequence.
Reinstall the engine wiring harness retension clips at the rear of the intake manifold. Carefully install the eight new fuel injector clips into the new fuel injectors. Apply some assembly lube to the injector O rings and install the included 47-pound injectors into the new fuel rail.
Lube your lower fuel injector O rings with assembly lube and carefully install the fuel rail and injectors into the intake manifold. Make sure each injector is properly seated and then tighten the previously removed fuel rail bolts to six to nine foot-pounds, following the correct torque sequence.
Now, position the supercharger onto the intake manifold and connect the eight fuel injector electrical connections. Connect the PCV purge line to the PCV valve on the valve cover and passenger side of the supercharger. Connect the ACT sensor from the ACT harness to the intake manifold. Install the brake aspirator hose assembly by connecting the hose from the supercharger to the 1/2-inch brake line and secure it with the attached clamp.
Connect the check valve on the brake vacuum and aspirator assembly to the brake booster. Install the 10 provided bolts into the supercharger mounting holes that hold it to the intake manifold and torque them to 18 foot-pounds, following the correct torque sequence.
Install the supercharger pulley onto the hub of the supercharger using the six included bolts and torque them to six to nine foot-pounds. Release the tension on the supercharger tensioner pulley and slide the belt over the supercharger pulley. Re-torque the pulley bolts if needed to six to nine foot-pounds.
Reinstall the fan shroud assembly, plug in electric connection, and tighten down the two previously removed bolts. Reposition your engine coolant reservoir and tighten it down with the two previously removed bolts. Remove the upper coolant hose from the water neck and install the included coolant hose and clamps from the reservoir to the water neck.
Install the coolant hose coming from the driver-side fitting on the heat exchanger to the lower inlet on the intake manifold and secure it with a clamp. Using the included short coolant hose installed onto the upper inlet on the intake manifold, position the cooler reservoir and connect the coolant hose coming from the pump inlet on the lower inlet on the coolant reservoir. Then, install the included short coolant hose onto the upper lid on the intake manifold and connect it to the upper inlet on the coolant reservoir, tying down the coolant reservoir with the included bolts.
Remove the coolant covers by gently pulling up on them. Then, remove the eight eight-millimeter fasteners holding the coil-on plug assemblies in place. Disconnect the electrical connectors from each ignition coil and remove the coil-on plug assemblies. Be sure to either label the assemblies or lay them out in relation to how you remove them.
Using a 5/8-inch spark plug socket and extension, remove the passenger-side spark plugs. You will need a swivel socket for the passenger-side rear plug. Check to ensure the included spark plugs are free of damage and are gapped to 0.9 millimeters. Place them into the spark plug holes and tighten them down to 10 foot-pounds.
Reconnect the electrical connections and reinstall the coil-on plugs. Reinstall the coil covers. We decided to go with an after-market coil cover from Ford Racing to give it a more sinister look. Do the same for the other side.
Connect the factory fuel supply line to the included fuel rails. Wrap the 36-inch-long evaporative emission canister purge valve line from the back of the supercharger to the body line to below the brake booster. Install both the included gaskets onto the included throttle body spacer and fasten it to the supercharger with the four included bolts. Torque those to seven foot-pounds.
Install the throttle body assembly on the throttle body spacer using the four included bolts and torque to seven foot-pounds. Connect the ETC and TPS electrical connectors to the throttle body. Install the air inlet tube to the throttle body and tighten the hose clamp.
Connect the boost bypass line to the small fitting on the inlet tube. Connect the brake aspirator hose assembly to the larger fitting on the air inlet tube. Then, connect the driver-side PCV hose to the air inlet tube and valve cover. Position the included air-box into the car. Transfer the rubber grommet and bolt from the factory air-box. Tighten the bolt to seven foot-pounds.
Place the mass airflow tube assembly through the opening in the air-box tray. Insert the two included J clips onto the air-box tray. Align the holes on the mass airflow tube assembly with the J clips on the air-box tray and install the two included bolts. Tighten the hose clamp that secures the mass airflow tube and air inlet tube.
Transfer the mass air meter from the factory air intake to the mass airflow tube assembly using the factory T20 torch bolts. Then, connect your mass airflow connections. Install the filter into the mass airflow tube and secure it with the supplied clamp. Install the upper air-box cover on the air-box tray and tighten it with the six included T30 torch bolts. After you install the air-box, take this time to wrap and zip-tie all of your electrical connections.
Next, cut the K brace on the marked area with a cutting wheel or Sawzall. Use a device to secure the K brace if needed. Once you make your cut, file down any rough edges. Clean the area with Brake Clean or denatured alcohol and apply a few light coats of satin black paint. Allow the paint to dry and reinstall the K brace underneath the cowl panel. Tighten down the five bolts and two strut tire nuts that hold the K brace in place. Then, reinstall the six plastic pushpins.
Reconnect your battery cables. Reinstall the battery cover and the three plastic retainers. Begin filling your supercharger coolant reservoir with quality coolant. Place the included decals in their designated area.
Moving back underneath the car, reinstall the lower closeout panel with the previously removed hardware. Reinstall your wheel and torque the lugs to the factory Ford specifications. Throw on the Ford Racing ROUSH Performance Supercharger badge, and you're all done.
Well, there you have it, guys. Installation should take you around eight to 10 hours and will be a good weekend project. You want to have an assortment of tools and decent mechanical knowledge to tackle this installation. Don't forget, you'll either need to mail your PCM to ROUSH or have your local Ford dealer flash the PCM using the included ROUSH Tune voucher.
If you would like to see the before and after dyno pulls, go ahead and click the link below or in the video description. For more in-depth how-to videos, subscribe to our YouTube channel if you haven't already done so. Like us on Facebook, follow us on Instagram and Twitter, and give us a +1 on Google+.
And of course, pick up your Ford Racing ROUSH Performance Phase One Supercharger kit from LatemodelRestoration.com.