Don't know where to start on your 99-04 Mustang GT V6? Here's our recommendation for the best way to start your project car. EVERY 99-04 GT Mustang we've seen could benefit from a new set of headlights, a Mach 1 chin spoiler, a new 3rd brake light, and a set of Mustang SVE lowering springs. We combined all of these popular parts into one easy kit from SVE!
These new and improved Mustang SVE lowering springs offer great looks and handling at an affordable price! Designed to fit 1979-2004 Mustang V8 hardtops, SVE springs are made in the USA by an original equipment manufacturer, and have been engineered to our exact specifications for the best possible performance and appearance. If you are in the need of lowering springs look no further than the SVE brand. See the application chart below the description to see how much this kit will lower your Mustang.
Kit also includes both left and right hand Mustang headlights. Tinted replacement headlamp with internal amber park lamp. These headlights are a nice upgrade from the clear style lights on 1999-2000 Mustang models, and renew the appearance of your faded factory 2001-2004 Mustang headlights.
SVE's smoked LED third brake light for your 1999-2004 Ford Mustang features a black housing with a smoked lens and LED lights for a brighter and sleeker look!
SVE Mach 1 Chin Spoiler for your 1999-04 Ford Mustang is made of ABS plastic to withstand impact for a durable, lasting product. This is a great way to add some Mach 1 styling to your Mustang at an awesome price!
The SVE lowering springs lowers:
94-04 4.6/5.0L Mustang hardtop - 1.5" front/1.5" rear drop
94-98 Cobra hardtop - 1.5" front/1.5" rear drop
03-04 Mach 1 hardtop - 1.1" front/1.0" rear drop
2001 Bullitt hardtop - 1.1" front/1.0" rear drop
Want amazing handling and a lower stance for your Mustang? How about at an affordable price? Well you can have all of these with the SVE Mustang Lowering Springs. These lowering springs are designed to cover 1979-2004 hardtop V8 Mustangs -- that means they will fit Fox Body Mustangs (coupe or hatchback) and SN 95 Mustangs with V8 and solid rear end.
SVE Mustang lowering springs are made in the USA by a leading suspension engineering company and have been designed to our exact specifications for the best performance and appearance on the market.
If your Mustang is in need of lowering springs whether you have a 79-93 Fox Body or a 94-04 SN95, we have the answer with our SVE Mustang Lowering Springs. The spring rates for the SVE lowering springs are 200/251 lb spring rate in the front and 571 lb spring rate in the rear
This SVE Mustang Lowering Spring Kit lowers your Mustang up to 1.5 inches. See the information below for your specific Mustang model.
Published on 2013-08-07 Adding a set of lowering springs to any Mustang is a must! Not only do you get the benefits of better handling but you also get rid of that 4x4 stance that comes on all factory Mustangs. Not all lowering springs are created the same and that was the case with Tyler's Competition Orange GT. Cheap lowering springs had him avoiding every pot-hole and speed bump he saw in fears of bottoming out. Installing a set of lowering springs on your Stang can be done in your garage and will take first time spring installers less than a couple hours to complete.
Add an awesome stance to your Fox Body, SN95 or New Edge Mustang with a set of SVE Lowering Springs. We also carry lowering springs from Eibach, Steeda, Ford Racing & BBK. Don't forget to pick up urethane spring isolators and caster camber plates to finish off your spring install.
Published on 2013-02-25 Product: 99-04 Mustang Mach 1 Chin Spoiler Brand: SVE Fits: Mustang V6, GT, & Mach 1 Year Models: 1999 (99) - 2000 (00) - 2001 (01) - 2002 (02) - 2003 (03) - 2004 (04) LRS Part #: SVE-17626M1
Follow along in this video as Jmac shows you how to install a Mustang Mach 1 chin spoiler on a SN95 Mustang. These Mustang chin spoilers are one of the easiest ways to add some serious styling to your Mustang for a great price. This is an SVE Mach 1 Style Chin Spoiler for your 1999-04 Ford Mustang. It is made of durable ABS plastic to withstand impact for a durable, lasting product. This is a great way to add some Ford Mustang Mach 1 styling to your Mustang at an awesome price!
Wether you are replacing an old worn out Mach 1 chin spoiler or adding some styling to your Mustang. Look no further than LatemodelRestoration.com's SVE Mach 1 chin spoiler. It will get your project SN95 Mustang looking great in no time!!
Published on 2013-02-28 Follow along in this video as Jmac shows you how to remove and install a 99-04 (New Edge SN95) Mustang 3rd brake light. Faded and weathered Mustang third brake lights are a common issue on the 99-04 Mustangs. Since the brake light wraps around to the top of the trunk/deck lid, the top of the 3rd brake light is subject to direct UV/sunlight. This UV light damage typically causes fading, cracking and peeling of the protective coat on the third brake light.
LatemodelRestoration.com offers both OEM Ford original Mustang brake lights and LED (L.E.D.) brake lights that are available in chrome, smoked and factory style. In this video Jmac uses the 1999-04 Mustang LED 3rd Brake Light – Factory Style to completely transform the looks of this 04 Mustang Pony Package V6.
These brake lights install on all V6, GT, 99-01 Cobras and Mach 1 model 99-04 Mustangs. The 03-04 SVT Cobra third brake light is built into the Cobra’s special spoiler. No matter what your Mustang lighting needs are, Latemodel Restoration has you covered with a full lineup of Mustang headlight, brake light, tail light and many other lighting options. All our lights are backed by a NO HASSLE WARRANTY.
Kit includes both left and right hand Mustang headlights. Tinted replacement headlamp with internal amber park lamp. Nice upgrade from the clear style lights on 1999-2000 Mustang models.
Dingy headlights suck! How many 01-04 Mustangs have you seen driving around with dingy, yellow headlights? When the 99 Mustang debuted most were glad to see the updated front end and headlight combination, unfortunately it seems like we stepped back in time because 99-04 Mustang headlights seem to get just as dull and dingy as the old Fox body headlights did. It's amazing how something as insignificant as a dull headlight can ruin your Mustang's overall appeal.
1 Year Warranty on These Headlights! Although the manufacturer does not always warranty their products, we do! If you consider buying lights from Latemodel Restoration Supply you can be assured that we will stand behind them! We only use the best possible manufacturers when selecting our products. We have heard of other companies telling their customers to bake their lights in an oven or run silicone around the seams to fix or prevent leak issues. Not here! If for some reason you have an issue with these lights leaking or turning yellow, we will replace them. No questions asked, within 1 year of the purchase date!
Published on 2013-06-03 Are your headlights shining at the ditch or trees instead of the road ahead of you at night? Watch this video as Jmac walks you through how to adjust your Mustang Head lights. Adjustment procedure is on all three models of Stangs is very easy and only requires a dark sitting and a headlight adjusting tool/wrench.
The headlight adjusting wrench/tool is needed for the 87-93 lights and the 94-98 lights. On the 99-04 you only need to have a Philips Screwdriver. Use Jmac's adjusting procedure to get your headlights pointing in the idle direction.
If you need help installing new lights be sure to check out our many tech/install videos on our YouTube Channel. Also, go to LatemodelRestoration.com to pick up your replacement lights with Free Shipping and a NO HASSLE WARRANTY on all our lighting options. We have everything you need to make sure your headlamp has the correct adjustment and replacement parts.
J-MAC: If your Mustang resembles a four-wheel drive truck more than the lean, mean street machine it actually is, you need a set of SVE lowering springs.
Don't be fooled by any that China stuff. Ours are made right here in the USA by a world-renowned suspension manufacturer to our specifications. That way, your 1979 to '04 Mustang gets the lower ride height, improved handling, all without killing your ride quality.
Let's take a little bit closer look at what makes SVEs stand out from the rest. Each set of SVE springs includes two linear rate front springs with a 571 pound spring rate, and two progressive rate rear springs that have a 200-251 pound spring rate. They're powder-coated silver, and the tops are surface ground. That way they seat perfectly in the chassis side spring cup.
Each kit also includes a new rear axle bump stop, also called a pinion snubber. These springs fit 1979 to 2004 Mustang V8 hard tops except '99 to '04 Cobra with IRS.
To grab your Mustang a set of these SVE lowering springs and all the associated components to do your spring install right the first time, check our suspension section over at latemodelrestoration.com.
JONATHAN MCDONALD: If you've picked up a used Mustang, more than likely it's already got a few modifications done to it. Such is the case with our '04 GT here. The previous owner installed a set of springs that did a great job of lowering the car, but it rides like crap, handling is poor, and it bottoms out if you even look at a bump. And they didn't install any caster camber plates, so the alignment's off and it's wearing the front tires.
We're going to address all of these issues with our SVE Springing Caster Camber Plate Kit. It includes a set of our '79 to '04 V8 hard-top springs, caster camber plates for either '79 to '89, '90 to '93, or '94 to '04, and a set of urethane spring isolators. This is going to greatly improve the ride quality and handling, and we'll be able to get that alignment back in spec so we're not going to be wearing out those expensive tires anymore.
You'll start by supporting your car on jack stands on all four corners and remove all four wheels.
Well, the inside of this tire was completely worn flat, it was splitting, and it's about to blow out. And this is what you want to avoid by putting caster camber plates on when you install your lowering springs. That way you can get your alignment back correct.
Remove your front sway bar end links and rotate your sway bar up out of the way. Remove your two caliper retaining bolts on one side. Slide the caliper off the rotor and remove the rotor from the hub.
Take off your ABS retaining nut, remove the retaining bolt, and slide the sensor out of the spindle. Support the lower control arm with a jack, and you can remove your strut nuts and bolts and free the spindle from the strut. Lower the jack to allow the control arm to hang, and you can remove your front spring.
Grab one of your new front springs, slide your urethane isolators leaders into place, pop your spring into the saddle, and jack up on the control arm. Remove your upper strut nut. Remove the strut from the car. With a drill, remove the rivet from the stock camber plate. And then remove the stock camber plate hardware and pull the plate off the car.
On the new SVE caster camber plates, the notch on the bolt plate goes forward. Slide the bolt plate from underneath the strut tower. Then you can slide the bearing plate on top of the strut tower. Position your slots as per the installation instructions. Install your retaining nuts.
This is a good opportunity to replace your struts if they're bad like these. If you're replacing struts, be sure to slide your rubber bumper from your old strut onto your new strut, and also transfer your dust cover. Trim the rubber on your dust cover according to the instructions if it's needed.
Install the spacer stack as per the installation instructions. Slide your strut shaft into the caster camber plate bearing and tighten the nut. Slide your spindle into the strut. Reinstall and tighten the strut hardware. Go ahead and reassemble your brakes and ABS sensor and reattach your front sway bar.
Installation of the rear springs typically only requires you to remove the lower shock bolts and allow the rear end to fully droop so you can pop out your rear springs. We took the opportunity to go ahead and install some of our SVE rear control arms. With your old springs out of the way, go ahead and pop your rear urethane isolators into place. Slide your new spring up into the spring pocket, making sure that the pigtail at the bottom of the spring is facing rearward with the face of the cut lined up in the center of the control arm. Go ahead and button up the rear, put your wheels and tires back on, and lower the car.
With just a few parts and an afternoon worth of your time, you can greatly transform the handling characteristics and ride quality of your Mustang. Keep in mind that you never know what has happened to your car before you've got a hold of it, so be prepared for anything. Also when installing one of our SVE suspension kits, it's a great time to check out our extensive suspension section at latemodelrestoration.com and pick up a new set of shocks and struts for your car.
If you own a 1999 to 2004 Mustang you probably heard of the Mach 1 style chin spoiler. Now here at latemodelrestoration.com, we've got two options for you-- the factory Ford original, and our SVE brand. Now, out of the box it's real hard to tell the difference between the two.
Texture almost identical. All the holes are in the exact same spots. That way it's a direct bolt on for a factory '03-'04 Mach 1.
The Ford unit has these Christmas tree style pushpins already installed-- one in the front center, two in the back corners-- to ease with installation. That way you can snap it up in the place. And it holds itself while you put in the rest of the pushpins.
Now the main difference here, flip these over and use the pushpins to line it up and give you a real good representation is the rear length. You can see that Ford one there is a little bit shorter. Our SVE one is a little bit longer. It takes it all the way back to the edge of the fender well.
Now in a factory Mach 1-- this is a factory '04 Mach 1 we're working on, in fact-- you have a little bit of gap at the back of the chin spoiler and the wheel well opening. This is factory. That's the way it came. And our SVE chin spoilers are a little bit longer. That way it takes up that gap, and moves the chin spoiler all the way back to the wheel well opening.
Now a common misconception is that these factory chin spoilers are almost indestructible. Well, that's not exactly the case. This factory chin spoilers very wavy and beat up, scratched from hitting parking bumps. It's just not in real good shape, makes this car look a lot worse than it needs to.
So we're going to take this off, replace it with our SVE chin spoiler. Now removal is simple. All you have is three of those Christmas tree style pushpins, and then 14 of these screw center pushpins. All you need is a Phillips head screwdriver, and possibly a pushpin removal tool to get this chin spoiler off.
I'm going to go ahead and pull this factory chin spoiler off, get everything cleaned up, and then we'll show you how to put the new one on. Installation is relatively simple if you're working with an 03-04 Mach 1. But let's say you don't have an '03-'04 Mach 1. Let's say you're going to put this SVA chin spoiler on your '99 to 2004 GT or V6. Again, not too terribly hard.
Couple of extra steps, though. You want to grab you a buddy or two, take your chin spoiler, and line it up under the bumper cover, lining up the back of the chin spoiler with the wheel well opening on both sides. Have a Sharpie marker handy, and mark the two rear-most holes and the center round hole on the bottom of the bumper cover. Once you have those marks made, take the chin spoiler back down, grab you a drill with a quarter-inch drill bit, and drill those three holes.
Now we took a cue from Ford, and include all the original type hardware-- the three Christmas tree type fasteners, and then 14 of the screw type pushpins. You want to take these three Christmas tree fasteners and put one in each rear hole try not to drop them. They can be a little tricky to get in, because it's a tight curve in the back.
And then one in the center hole. Now what that's going to do is allow you to put that chin spoiler up into place just like this. And it'll hold itself.
Now the chin spoiler is held into place. You can grab your Sharpie, mark the rest of your holes, and drill them out. And then install you push type fasteners. Now if you've got an '03-'04 Mach 1, all you've got to do, slide a fastener in the hole, and push the screw center in. I'm going to go ahead and finish this up.
All right. I got all the pushpins in. This thing is securely mounted.
Man, it really changed the front end look of this car. Now I can't stress enough just how much of a direct fit this chin spoiler is on an '03-'04 Mach 1, and how easy it is to put one on your '99 to '04 GT or V6. Really can be done in your driveway.
Common hand tools. Not going to take a whole lot of time. And it's going to add a bit of style to your GT or V6, or completely dress up a once tattered Mach 1.
Now the big difference comes in here at the back. Completely flush with the wheel well now. Before we had almost a thumb's width gap at the back. Now it's completely flush. We took care of a factory issue. Now for more accessories and restoration parts for your Mustang, check out latemodelrestoration.com
Not only did 99 to 04 Mustangs have problems with their headlights, the third brake light is a problem area as well. It also completely fades over and doesn't allow light to transfer. And really looks kind of like garbage. Replacing it is super easy. All you have to do is pop the trunk and gain access.
You'll want to remove the electrical connector and then remove the two retaining nuts that hold the third break light to the trunk. Now those two retaining nuts are 10 millimeter. Go ahead and remove those now.
Then you pull up on the third brake light and remove it from the trunk lid. Now you have to remove this whole harness from the original third brake light and transfer it to your new one. Start by twisting your deck lid bulb there. Pull up on your connector. You can remove that out of the way. Twist that bulb and remove that connector. Twist that bulb and remove that connector.
Now you want to go ahead and remove all of the bulbs from the harness. Reason being is our SVE third brake light is LED powered. It doesn't need incandescent bulbs. Now before you get started, you're going to want to pull off the double sided adhesive for your third brake lights seal and actually stick it to the housing.
Now the large side will go toward the bottom of the third brake light. Just stick it on all the way down that way you have no water intrusion. And you want to take a pair of pliers, and on all the connectors squeeze down your metal contact points. Right out of the box and they're not cramped down all the way, and it's going to make it a little bit harder to install these LED connectors into your existing bulb harness.
Once you're done with that, you take your bulb harness, snap your main harness connector end into place, slide your wiring connector or your wiring harness through the little retainer there, grab your first connector, pop it into the socket, and tuck your wiring in. And you can actually snap the bulb connector into place. Go ahead and snap your deck lid connector. Twist it in and slide your bulb back into the deck lid connector there.
Tuck the final piece of the harness down into its retainer, and you can take your new third brake light and slide it into the deck lid. Now you can reuse your existing nuts to retain the new third brake light to your deck lid. And once you get it tightened down, plug-in your harness connector, shut your trunk lid, and test for proper operation. And we have a completely lit up LED section. Now for more exterior lighting products and tips, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
If you own a 1999 to 2004 Mustang, then you already know that the headlights are notorious for doing this-- completely fogging over, not letting light pass through, and looking like garbage. Luckily, we have lots of different options to get you back right, two of which are the Ford original '01 to '04 style Mustang headlight. The other one is our aftermarket version of the same light.
What's the difference between the two? Not a whole lot. They look almost identical and fit almost identical, unlike other companies' offerings. Now, the '01 to '04 style has the black inserts, giving it a smoked look. The '99, 2000 is completely chrome on the inside, giving it a much brighter look. This '01 to '04 style is the more desirable and most popular option.
Now, on our aftermarket lights, they have the factory adjusting points and the factory mounting points. Both the Ford original and the aftermarket don't come with new bulbs or side marker sockets. You'll have to reuse your originals. Or if your originals are bad, we have you covered with new bulbs, new side marker sockets, and even pigtail connectors for boats, in case your pigtail connectors are broken.
Let me show you how these things fit in comparison, Ford versus aftermarket. Now to, get your janky old headlight out of the way, you've only got two pins in your way. Grab hold, and pull straight up, and those pins will let free. And you can grab hold of the headlight, wiggle it forward, unplug your headlight bulb, and then unplug your side marker.
Now, this old headlight, not looking real great. Now, I want to show you the fit difference between the Ford original and the aftermarket. This is the Ford original unit. Make sure everything's out of the way. Just kind of slide it into place. You have complete perfect alignment with the fender. The seal completely goes around the entire opening. No fitment issues.
Now, I want to show you the aftermarket unit. The fact is, before I put that in, I'm going to go ahead and load the bulbs in. Because you will need to use your existing bulbs. On this aftermarket unit, it's got this little wavy metal washer. That needs to stay inside the bulb retainer. That way it keeps tension on the bulb whenever you twist it into place.
Resisting bulb sockets simply twist into place. Now, I'm going to go ahead and get our connectors here. And if your connectors are broken, we have new pigtail connectors. You can check out our blog on how to replace those pigtail connectors.
Get everything plugged back in, and you can slide the headlight into place. And again, you have a complete seal around the fender. Perfect fitment, nothing going wrong here. Not like a whole lot of the other aftermarket lights that have a huge gap around the fender area. Now, for more lighting options for your Mustang, check out LatemodelRestoration.com.
JONATHAN MCDONALD: So you've replaced the headlights in your Mustang, and your first time out driving at night reveals that they really don't light up the road at all. It's definitely not a light transmission problem. It's all about the adjustment, or lack thereof. Just because your new headlight's bolted right in, doesn't mean you're done with the install. If you own an '87 to '93, '94 to '98, or '99 to '04 Mustang, we're going to show you how to stage your car up for the adjustment procedure, what you're going to need, where the adjusters are, and what they do.
First and foremost, what you're going to want to do is find you a place that's going to be as dark as possible, flat level ground. Move your car all the way up against that wall or door as close as you can get it without touching. Turn your headlights on.
Grab you some blue painter's tape or something equivalent. Any type of masking tape will work. Make you a horizontal tape line across each one of the light beams and make you a vertical tape line across the center of each one of the light beams. Now move your car back 25 feet.
Now a handy tool to have in your arsenal is this headlight adjusting wrench. It'll work on '87 to '98. On an '87 to '93, here's where your horizontal adjuster is and here's where your vertical adjuster is. Go ahead and use your tool to either move the adjuster in or out, depending on where the beam is pointing at. And you want that beam to land, final adjustment, where the beam is just down and to the right of where your tape lines intersect.
On a '94 to '98 Mustang, remove your radiator cover so you can have full access to your inside adjusters. Here's your horizontal adjuster and here's your vertical adjuster. Adjustment process is the same as it was on the Fox body.
On a '99 to '04 car, man, they made it a whole lot easier. It is super simple to adjust these headlights. All you need is a Phillips' head screwdriver. Here's your horizontal adjuster and here's your vertical adjuster.
Go drive your Mustang and enjoy the clarity of having properly adjusted headlights. Go on over to latemodelrestoration.com and check out more Mustang lighting solutions.
Hi all. This is my first venture into this and I need to know if this kit will work with a convertible 2004 GT. The description only mentions hardtop vehicles. Asked by Kerry E.from Alabaster | Comment00
Best Answer: Yes this will fit convertible. Answered by David B.from Hewitt | Comment00
SVE, or Special Vehicle Equipment, is your trusted source for 1979-93 Mustang Foxbody, 1994-98 Mustang SN95, 1999-04 Mustang New Edge, or 2005-present Mustang S197 performance and styling products. Buy SVE products from Latemodel Restoration Supply and receive the best value and quality, with industry-leading customer service. Whether you need Mustang wheels, Mach1 chin spoilers, control arms, subframe connectors, clutches, lowering springs, cold air intake kits, or big brake kits, SVE is the brand you should demand.
SVE and 50resto Warranty
One Year Hassle Free Replacement
SVE and 50resto products are warranted to be free from defects in materials or workmanship for one year from date of purchase. What does this warranty cover? YOU! That’s right, whether you ordered a SVE brand Mach I grille delete or a 50resto brand light kit, if your product fails within a year of your purchase we got your back! Some conditions will apply.
Had a problem with an order/quality issue. I put up a review stating so, and was contacted by Mike Linley, who was soooo nice and sooo professional, I almost felt bad about my review !! I felt the review was necessary because of bad welds/paint. Mike explained that they had a particular issue with that supplier and they had changed suppliers because of it. I must have mistakenly got an old set. (upper/lower Control arms-Foxbody). Mike asked a few questions, and was Sending me an updated replacement set while we were on the phone.!!! This is what I wish all Vendors would do; no arguments, no blame, no B.S. !! This is why LateModel stands out as an upstanding company, and backs up their products with AWESOME Customer service. Very rare in this day and age, and because of this I will be a customer for life, and will spread the good word ! Great to know some honest and Classy companies still operate in the good ol' USA. Thanks LateModel, and Thanks Mike !!! I look forward to seeing the New LCA'S and will review them too...You guys did the right thing and should and I'm overly impressed!