Complete Roush Appearance Kit
This complete Roush appearance kit for 2013-2014 Mustangs is a great way to get aggressive new looks for your S197. Whether you have a V6 or GT, this Roush body kit can transform your Stang into looking just like a Roush edition Mustang. This kit includes a new ROUSH lower grille, hood scoop, upper grille, 3 piece spoiler, rear valance kit, front chin spoiler, rear side splitter, side splitter assemblies, lower fog light kit, axle back exhaust kit, and 2 fender emblems. DOES NOT INCLUDE SIDE DECALS.
Roush Lower Grille
Install a ROUSH® Lower Grille on your 2013-2014 Mustang S197 To match the High Flow Upper for increases performance! The lower grille will upgrade the look and function of your 2013 Mustang while matching the look and quality of the High Flow Upper from Roush. This grille replaces the stock lower grille for your Mustang to add a sleek styling element to the front of your car.
Roush Hood Scoop
This hood scoop gives your 2013-2014 Mustang a competition look. Dress up the hood with this ROUSH late 60's style hood scoop, which includes all attaching hardware and template for easy installation. Add an aggressive muscular look to your Mustang's hood with a scoop and set your car apart from the herd!
Roush Upper Grille
Replace your stock 2013-2014 Ford Mustang Grille with the ROUSH® High-Flow Upper Grille. The high-flow upper grille will upgrade the look and function of your 2013-2014 Mustang. The grille replaces the stock grille for the Mustang (removing the stock fog lamps if your Mustang is equipped) to add a sleek styling element to the front of your car. In addition to an updated look, the Mustang grille also increases air flow to the radiator over the stock grille approximately 40% on the GT/V6. The upper grille is made from injection molded ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) with a black stipple finish for superior appearance, toughness, light-weight, heat resistance, and impact resistance.
Roush Rear Spoiler
Give your Mustang an aggressive look with the race-inspired ROUSH® 2010-2014 Mustang Rear Spoiler. This ROUSH Rear Trunk Lid Wing is notched out for maximum rear visibility. This Ford Mustang body kit fits all 2010-2014 Mustangs and comes unpainted. The ROUSH Ford Mustang Rear Wing Kit is made from light-weight and rigid ABS (acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) for superior appearance, toughness, light-weight, heat resistance, and impact resistance, and is made in the U.S.A. at ROUSH's own plastics manufacturing facility. This kit is designed around original manufacturer CAD data for optimum quality and fit. As a result, installation is quick and easy. There is no time consuming trimming or sanding required as there is with our competitors' body kits. The ROUSH Ford Mustang Rear Spoiler kit includes templates, hardware, and high-quality adhesive tape for easy installation. NOTE: This part is not compatible with the 2010-2014 Ford Mustang Rear Camera option.
Roush Rear Valance Kit
Add aggressive styling to the rear of your Ford Mustang with the ROUSH® 2013-2014 Mustang Rear Valance. This valance fits 2013-2014 Ford Mustangs with the Roush exhaust (V8 Part # 421410 / V6 Part # 421517). This part comes unpainted with a grain texture that resists chipping from impacts from rocks while driving. The ROUSH Rear Valance is made from high-strength TPO (thermal plastic olefin) for long lasting durability, and is made in the U.S.A. at ROUSH's own plastics manufacturing facility. The plastic is molded with high-pressure injection, the same process used by the automotive manufactures. This Mustang Valance kit is designed around original manufacturer CAD data for optimum quality and fit. All required mounting hardware is included.
Roush Front Chin Spoiler
This ROUSH front chin spoiler gives your 2013-2014 Mustang an extra-aggressive look and fits perfectly with the stock front fascia. Easy installation and comes with all necessary hardware for installation.
Roush Rear Side Splitters
Add true race-inspired styling to your 2013-2014 Ford Mustang with ROUSH's Rear Side Splitter kit. The rear splitter kit includes both the left and right sides of your Mustang. Each splitter fits underneath the rear valance to create an aggressive styling line with the road. Easy Installation, Fits 2010-14 5.0,V6, GT500, Boss 302, & California Special
Roush Side Splitters
Add true race-inspired styling to your 2010-2014 Mustang with ROUSH's Side Splitter kit. This kit includes splitters for both the left and right sides of your Mustang. Each splitter fits underneath the stock Mustang rocker panels to create an aggressive styling line with the road. The 2010-2014 Mustang Side Splitter kit is made from high-strength TPO (thermal plastic olefin) for long lasting durability, and is made in the U.S.A. at ROUSH's own plastics manufacturing facility. The plastic is molded with high-pressure injection, the same process used by the automotive manufactures. Installation takes only minutes, and there is no trimming needed, and includes All required parts necessary for installation. These splitters come unpainted so they can be painted your desired color and feature a grained texture to be more resistant to impact from rocks while driving.
Roush Lower Fog Light Kit
This 2013-2014 Mustang Roush lower fog light kit gives your S197 an aggressive new look while adding fog lights to your lower grille. GT Mustangs came with upper grille fog lights that get deleted when adding aftermarket grilles, and V6 Mustangs did not come with any fog lights at all. This kit is a great way to add auxiliary fog lights to either body style. These fog light bezels fit where your stock lower grilles are to keep your installation clean!
Roush Axle Back Exhaust
Give your 2013 V8 Mustang the aggressive sound it deserves . This innovative new exhaust system from ROUSH features a hollow muffler chamber, as opposed to conventional fiberglass-packing. The result is a unique and less inhibited sound, increased air flow, and increased longevity (there is no fiberglass that will break-down with time). Another great feature of this system is the lack of the in-cockpit boom normally found with performance exhaust systems at cruising speeds.
Roush Fender Emblems
These Roush Performance fender badges are designed to fit on your fender and show everyone who's boss. They feature the famous Roush logo and are easily applied to your vehicle without making any modifications. The great looking Roush Performance fender badges add a finishing touch that will leave a long-lasting impression.
This part must be painted to match your vehicle.
Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!
Published on 2014-02-17 Are you looking to add some serious styling to your 2013-14 Mustang? Check out the Roush front splitter (chin spoiler) and side splitter kit from LatemodelRestoration.com. This kit includes the aggressive 13-14 Roush Chin Spoiler, rocker side splitters and the rear bumper side splitters.
Follow along in this video as we show you just how easy it is to install this complete kit and transform for S197 Mustang. This kit will fit V6, GT, Boss 302 & California Special edition 13-14 Mustangs. See the links below to see each individual pieces in this kit.
Be sure too check out our full line of Roush Performance parts at LatemodelRestoration.com
Published on 2014-02-19 Want to give your 2013-14 Mustang the iconic Roush RS3 look and styling? Look no further that the Roush upper grille. Not only will it improve the looks of your S197 Mustang but it will also improve your cooling performance! It increases air flow going into the radiator by approximately 40% over your stock GT or V6 Mustang grille.
This Roush grille will fit the V6, GT, Boss 302 & California Special edition 2013-14 Mustangs. It is made from ABS injection moded plastics for strong durable construction. No cutting or drilling is required for installation.
Follow along in this video as Jmac show you how easy it is to transform the exterior of your Mustang with the Roush Upper Grille! Click on the link above for more details on this grille.
Published on 2014-02-25 Have you installed a Roush upper grille or an aftermarket grille that deleted your fog lights? If so, you don't have to give up your fog lights because you want to improve the looks of your Stang! Roush's lower fog light kit for 13-14 Mustangs lets you add a set of fog lights to your 13-14 Mustang.
This kit let's you use the factory front bumper and adds some serious style while doing it! Best of all you get Roush quality and fitment with this Mustang fog light kit. The kit includes plug & play wiring harnesses, 2 fog lights, 2 fog light bezels and 2 fog light bezel mounts.
Follow along in this video to see how to install the Roush Fog Light kit on your S197 Mustang. Installation will take you a couple of hours and does require some cutting on your bumper. The end result is a head turning new look that will help you light up the road at night!
2013-14 Mustang Roush Fog Light Kit Brand: Roush Performance Parts Part# RSH-421394 Fits: Mustang GT V6 Boss 302 Years: 2013 (13) - 2014 (14)
Published on 2014-03-03 Are you looking to add some serious styling to your 13-14 Mustang GT, V6 or Boss 302? Look no further than the Roush hood scoop. This hood scoop was made popular on the super powerful supercharged Roush RS3. This Mustang hood scoop is constructed out of high strength injection molding that will give you years of worry free aggressive styling.
Each Roush hood scoop includes all necessary attaching hardware and instructions for installation. Install will require you to have the hood scoop professionally painted and require some simple modifications to be made to the hood.
Follow along in the video as we show you can drastically transform the hood of your S197 Mustang with this Roush hood scoop. We will show you how easy it is to use the supplied templates to easily mark and drill the required holes for installation. Be sure to click on the link above to shop our complete line of Roush Performance Parts!
2013-14 MUSTANG ROUSH HOOD SCOOP - S197 Part #: RSH-421395 Fits: Ford Mustang V6, GT & Boss 302 Years: 2013 (13) - 2014 (14)
Published on 2014-03-03 If you are looking to give your 2013-14 Mustang an aggressive and unique look, you need the Roush Rear Valance and Axle Back Kit. The Roush rear valance (diffuser) is designed to give an aggressive new look to your S197 and comes designed to clear the Roush square style tips found on their axle back kits. This rear valance and square tip axleback kit were made popular on their powerful supercharged 5.0L Roush RS3.
Follow along in this video as we show you how to install the Roush axle back and diffuser kit. Installation of the diffuser will require some simple cuts and modifications to be made to your rear bumper. Roush includes all the required templates for you to make precise cuts and modification.
The Roush mufflers featured on their Mustang Axle Back Kit will give your Stang a super aggressive exhaust tone that will match the new killer looks of the rear diffuser. We offer this Roush Axle Back & Valance Kit for GT/Boss 302/GT500s and V6 Mustangs.
Be sure to click on the link at the top to see our full line of Roush Performance Parts!
Published on 2014-03-03 Give your 2010-14 Mustang an aggressive and unique look with the Roush Rear Spoiler Kit! If you like the race inspired look of the powerful supercharged 5.0L Roush RS3, then you have been searching for this Mustang spoiler. The Roush spoiler is constructed of ABS material for superior strength and light weight design.
Installation of the Roush Spoiler does require some modification to the rear of your Mustang. Luckily you can follow along on video as we show you how easy it is to follow Roush's detailed instructions. We also cover how to remove your OE factory spoiler in this video.
This install will require you to have the spoiler professionally painted before you can start the installation. Once you have the rear spoiler installed you will be turning heads in no time! Be sure to click the link above to shop our complete line of Roush Performance Parts!!
Each Roush Rear Spoiler Kit includes: (1) Center Rear Spoiler (1) LH Rear Spoiler End (1) RH Rear Spoiler End (1) Hardware Kit (6) Lock Nuts - M6 x 1.0 (4) Bolts - M6 x 1 x 12.5 (2) Die Cut 3M Tape (9) Foam Tape (1) Positioning Template & Installation Instructions
latemodelrestoration.com makes it very easy to upgrade the appearance of your 2013 and 2014 Mustang.
One way is by using this front inside splitter kit from Roush Performance Parts. While technically these are bolt-on pieces, they're not exactly direct-fit because they do require some drilling and cutting for installation.
Luckily, Roush does include very detailed instructions, along with all the needed hardware, so follow along, and we'll show you how to install these splitters on this 2014 Mustang GT.
We'll begin the installation with the front chin spoiler. You'll want to lift the front of the car to gain access to the underside of the bumper cover. You will need to remove the two 7 millimeter hex head screws at the lower front portion of each wheel well.
Remove the six 8 millimeter screws from the front of the closeout panel, and then remove the eleven remaining 7 millimeter panel fasteners and save these for re-installation.
You can remove the closeout panel from under the car. While you don't have to remove the bumper cover, we did so just for filming purposes to show you a clear view of all the fasteners you'd be touching.
Remove the two 7 millimeter screws from the chin spoiler. Remove and discard the six retaining pins from the inside of the bumper cover.
Depress the six tabs and push them through the slots in the lower bumper cover to remove the factory splitter. Remove and discard the eight factory plastic U-clips from the lower portion of the front bumper.
You can remove the six tabs from the chin spoiler either by cutting them off or breaking them off with a pair of pliers. Measuring from the end of the splitter, measure inward 47 centimeters or 18 and 1/2 inches. At your mark, use a straight edge to draw a straight line continuing around the splitter to the lowest body line.
We used a body saw to cut along the line. We cut downward, flush against the retaining end, to finish the cut and discarded the trimmed piece.
Now you can clean up any rough edges you may have using sandpaper or a file. Repeat these steps for the other side.
This is what your factory chin spoiler should look like after you've performed the cuts. Install the eight supplied J-clips along the front lower edge of the bumper cover. Temporarily install the new chin spoiler on the front bumper cover.
Install three screws found in the hardware kit and center the splitter up on the bumper cover. Mark your three holes on the right hand side and the three holes on the left hand side.
Before drilling, remove the splitter. And drill your six holes, first using an 1/8 inch drill bit and then stepping up to a 1/4 inch drill bit.
Install the six J-clips supplied in the hardware kit onto the six newly drilled holes on the bumper cover. Remove and discard the six factory J-clips from the lower closeout panel.
Hang the new chin splitter from the bumper cover, using six screws from the hardware kit. Install the remaining six J-clips from the hardware kit onto the new splitter.
Grab your factory splitter and slide it up underneath the new splitter. And install two of the take-off screws, then install the two screws removed from the wheel well opening on each side.
Slide the closeout panel into place. The panel must be sandwiched between the factory splitter and the new chin splitter.
Install six of the 7 millimeter screws that we removed in the beginning. Install the remaining six screws from the hardware kit into the front portion of the closeout panel.
Install the remaining five take-out bolts, removed in the beginning, to the back of the closeout panel.
After you finish up with the chin spoiler, you can move on to the rocker splitters. On the underside of the new rocker splitters, they're marked left-hand and right-hand. We'll start with the left.
Wipe down the four rectangular areas outlined on the top surface of each side splitter with a clean cloth and alcohol. Once dried, apply adhesion promoter within these areas.
Apply one strip of tape to each of the four rectangular areas where the adhesion promoter was placed. Keep the red side of the tape facing up. Do this on both rocker splitters.
Hold the rocker splitter in position and visually note where the foam tape is attached to the factory rocker molding. Lower the rocker splitter. Do not tape it into place just yet.
Clean the noted area where the tape aligns on the factory rocker moldings, and apply some of the adhesion promoter to the factory rocker panel. Remove the eight push-pins from the left-hand rocker panel molding and discard them.
Prepare the new rocker splitter by bending and creasing the pull-tabs for the tape. Do not expose or touch the foam tape.
Loosely install the left-hand rocker splitter and eight of the new supplied push-pins. Ensure that the foam tape pull-tabs are accessible and, starting at the front, ensuring that the rocker panel molding is nested into the recessed feature in the rocker splitter, fully insert the eight push-pins.
Pull the four tape tags to remove the tape backing and press the rocker splitter into place. Apply firm pressure at 3 to 4 inch intervals along the entire length of the rocker splitter to ensure a strong bond.
To keep from drilling too far, you can use some electrical tape on your drill bit to make a drill stop. You'll want to place several wraps of tape down about 1 inch from the tip of the drill bit.
Using the rocker splitter as a template, drill five new 1/4 inch holes into the factory rocker panel molding. Install a new push-pin into each of the five newly drilled holes. Repeat all of these steps for the right-hand side.
With the rocker splitters in place, we'll finally move on to the rear splitters. Take the supplied template, cut out along the dashed line, and fold at the lines marked "fold".
Position the template onto the underside of the left-hand part of the rear bumper cover. Align the rear-most hole for proper positioning, aligning the edges of the template with the inside edges of the rear bumper cover.
Tape the template in place. Once you're comfortable with the splitter template alignment, drill four 1/8 inch pilot holes into the center marks shown on the template. Remove the template and drill the four 1/8 inch holes out to 1/4 inch size.
With rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth, wipe down the rear splitters on the edge with all of the alignment holes.
Align a straight edge to the center of the four holes to use as a guide while applying adhesion promoter. Do not apply beyond the holes so the adhesion promoter will be visible once the splitter is installed.
Remove the white backing from the tape pieces and install the tape 4 millimeters from the edge.
Again using rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth, wipe down the bumper cover installation surfaces. Install the force applied J-clip fasteners over your 1/4 inch holes. Remove the red film from the tape to install the rear splitters.
Position the left-hand rear splitter mounting holes in alignment with the J-clips and loosely install the screws. Stick the rear splitter into place then fully install and tighten the four retaining screws. Do this for both sides.
The chin spoiler and side splitters are available separately or in this complete kit. And I know it's hard to believe that a few pieces of plastic can make a difference, but the difference is drastic. Your car will look better.
As always, Roush includes all the hardware, instructions, and even templates where needed.
Visit latemodelrestoration.com to pick up your kit today.
You can add some aggressive styling and improve the air flow to your 2013 or 2014 Mustang GT or V6 with a Roush performance upper grill. This grill is a great option if you've chosen another fog light mounting position, such as the Roush performance fog light kit.
The hardest part of this install is going to be removing the front bumper cover. Follow along and we'll show you just how easy that part of it is.
Installation begins by opening the hood and removing the eight pin retainers along with the upper radiator cover.
Remove the four pin retainers and the four 8 millimeter bolts from the top of the front bumper cover. Remove the three 7 millimeter outer lower bumper cover bolts on both the right-hand and the left-hand side. Remove the front six 8 millimeter bolts and the rear five 7 millimeter bolts from the lower air deflector.
Pull down and back to remove the lower air deflector from the car. Disconnect the two side marker light connectors-- one on the right and one on the left. Remove the ambient air temperature sensor by prying it out of place. Pull outward to unsnap the right-hand and left-hand sides of the bumper cover.
If equipped, disconnect the fog lamp connectors. Pull the bumper cover away from and off of your Mustang.
Remove the three 7 millimeter bolts from each fog light and remove the fog lights from the factory grill. Release the 14 retaining tabs around the perimeter of the factory grill and remove the grill from the bumper cover.
Take this opportunity to clean the opening.
Slide the new Roush grill into position and install the 14 supplied U-clips.
Reinstall your bumper cover, reversing the removal steps.
The Roush upper grill is an easy snap-in installation that requires no modifications and no painting, plus it fits both GT and V6. If you have original grill-mounted fog lights, you can either zip-tie your old pigtail harnesses out of the way or, if you're installing something like the Roush fog light kit, they need to be routed down and plugged in to the new fog light adapter harnesses.
You can go to latemodelrestoration.com to pick up your Roush upper grill, as well as check out our entire offering of Roush performance parts.
If you've added a grill that has deleted the grill-mounted fog lights on your '13 or '14 Mustang, then you need a new fog light mounting solution.
The best-looking most aggressive option is the Roush performance fog light kit. This kit includes the needed brackets and bezels, new fog lights, attaching hardware, templates, and even some plug-and-play wiring connectors.
The install of this kit is fairly involved as you do have to remove the front bumper cover, and there is some cutting and drilling involved of the bumper cover. But follow along, and we'll show you how to get this kit installed on your Mustang.
Installation begins by opening the hood and removing the 8 pin retainers along with the upper radiator cover. Remove the four pin retainers and the four 8 millimeter bolts from the top of the front bumper cover. Remove the three 7 millimeter outer lower bumper cover bolts on both the right-hand and the left-hand side.
Remove the front six 8 millimeter bolts and the rear five 7 millimeter bolts from the lower air deflector. Pull down and back to remove the lower air deflector from the car.
Disconnect the two side marker light connectors-- one on the right and one on the left. Remove the ambient air temperature sensor by prying it out of place.
Pull outward to unsnap the right-hand and left-hand sides of the bumper cover. If equipped, disconnect the fog lamp connectors. Pull the bumper cover away from and off of your Mustang.
Remove the three 7 millimeter bolts from each fog light and remove the fog lights from the factory grill. Release the five retaining tabs and remove the fog lamp delete panel from the bumper cover.
Take the supplied templates and cut out along the solid lines so the outboard template fin can wrap around the bumper cover. Position the exterior hole template on the bumper cover, aligning the marker lamp provision and the bottom of the template to the bottom of the bumper cover edge, and tape the template into position.
Using a sharp marking device, mark the centered area on the seven pilot hole spots. Remove the template and drill the marked locations with and 1/8 inch bit. Once all your 1/8 inch pilot holes are drilled, step up to a 3/8 bit and drill out all seven holes.
Apply the bracket templates to the back side of the bumper cover. Align the tab of the outboard template to the notch and fold the tabs of the inboard template and tape them into position.
Position the lower outboard tab by hand. Mark the area around the templates on the bumper cover using a paint marker or something similar. Once everything is marked, remove the templates from the bumper cover.
We used a body saw to cut out the areas we marked on the bumper cover. De-bur any rough edges, using sandpaper or a razor knife. Repeat all these steps for the other side.
Clean the bumper cover with rubbing alcohol and a clean cloth, then apply the 3M adhesion promoter to the backside of the fog lamp bezels.
Lay out your double-sided tape and peel the white backing, attaching the tape around the perimeter of each fog light bezel. We started by peeling the red covering off but not sticking the outer bezel into place.
We loosely installed the inner bezel, starting with the four outer screws and then the seven smaller outer screws on both fog lights brackets, slowly tightening them down until the bezel started to seat. Then we firmly pressed the outer bezel into position and fully tightened all the screws.
And then slide your fog light into place and secure it, using four of the supplied screws on both the right-hand and the left-hand brackets.
Remove the foam bumper impact absorber from the front metal beam by prying the four push pins away from the bumper. Install the two fog light jumper harnesses, connecting them to the factory fog lamp connectors and routing them through the vehicle framing under the headlamp assemblies.
On the front bumper metal beam, measure and mark 1/2 inch inward and upward, draw a diagonal line connecting the marks and cut the triangular shape from the left-hand and right-hand lower corner.
Slide the foam impact absorber back into place on the middle bumper bar and reinstall the four push pins.
You can now slide your bumper cover back into place, connecting your fog lights. As an optional step, you can zip-tie your fog light harnesses up out of the way. Reinstall the ambient air temp sensor on the metal bumper beam. And reinstalling all the previously removed hardware.
I have to say this is probably the most involved fog light install I've ever done, but the results, they speak for themselves, because this is also one of the best-looking fog light kits on the market for 2013 and 2014 Mustangs.
Even though there is quite a bit of cutting and drilling involved with this fog light kit, the Roush instructions really do walk you through step by step and give you all the needed templates to make sure that your finished product is factory appearing.
And just in case you're thinking that the fog lights included in this kit are some exotic piece-- well, they're not. They're readily available, 0304 Cobra fog light assemblies, just in case you happen to need a replacement later down the road.
Visit latemodelrestoration.com to pick up your fog light kit as well as check out our entire offering of Roush performance products.
2013 and '14 Mustangs received a nice touch from the factory by way of the louvered vents mounted on the hood. However, if you want a little bit more exterior pop for your Mustang, you need to check out this hood scoop from Roush performance. It does come unpainted, so you will need to plan a trip to your body shop to have it color-matched to your vehicle. And it does require some drilling for installation, but luckily, Roush does include detailed installation instructions, along with a cut-out template and all needed installation hardware. Follow along, and we'll show you what it takes to get this hood scoop mounted on your Mustang.
Open your hood, and using a pushpin removal tool, remove the 13 hood insulator retainers. Save these for later. And remove the hood insulator from the car.
Next, the instructions say to remove the rubber hood to cowl seal, but we did not do this. And we'll tell you why here in a little bit. Cut out the provided hood template. If the Mustang is equipped with extractors, align the template cut-outs with the extractors. Align the rear of the hood template to the rear of the hood, and the line the sides with the cowl hood feature lines of the hood.
Using the center punch, mark all the holes to be drilled. Remove the template from the hood. Using an 1/8 inch drill bit, continue drilling a straight centered pilot hole through the second layer of sheet metal on the forward two outer holes. Drill nine pilot holes, four along the front, three along the back, and two, one on each side.
Using either a step drill bit, or 7/16 inch standard drill bit, begin filling the pilot holes open. Do not drill through the second layer of sheet metal with the 716th bit. Clean up any loose metal shavings. Open the hood. Using a 7/8 inch hole saw, open up the two forward outer holes on the underside of the hood. You can use a rust preventer, if you choose, on all nine holes. Clean up any loose metal shavings.
With the hood scoop laying upside down, remove the stud protectors from the underside of the hood scoop. Remove the backing from eight of the circular isolators, and install them around the eight studs. Remove the backing from the ninth isolator, and stretch it around the locating dowel.
Wipe down the outer surfaces that will accept the double-sided tape with rubbing alcohol, and allow to dry. Apply the 3M adhesion promoter to the clean surfaces, and let the adhesion promoter dry for at least a minute. Then apply the double-sided tape, with the red film facing up.
Place the hood scoop over the hood, locating the rear dowel into the rear center hole. Center the scoop between the cowl lines of the hood, or the heat extractors, if you have a '13 or '14. Remove the red film from the front piece of tape, from the left, the right, and then the back piece of tape. Firmly press around the perimeter of the hood scoop.
Open the hood and install the eight supplied attaching nuts. We did not drill the 7/8 inch holes with the hole saw. We were able to access the studs by reaching in from the front of the hood cross support. This is why we did not remove the hood to cowl seal.
Install the supplied finish plugs into the 7/8 inch holes. Reinstall the hood insulator and the push pins. The hood scoop is supplied with a black inlet graphic, and you can either install this, or do like we did, and while your hood scoop is at the paint shop, have the front edge painted black.
Once the installation is done and you've started breathing again, you'll realize it wasn't all that bad. Even though the size of the template will cause you to panic, it really is just a few holes to drill, a couple of pieces of tape to peel, and tighten down a few nuts.
It really does add to the body lines of the Mustang. And you can grab yours at LatemodelRestoration.com. Along with any other Roush accessory you may need.
Add unique styling and aggressive sound to your 2013 or '14 Mustang GT, with this Roush performance rear valance and axle back kit. Because of the large rectangular openings, the valance does require cutting of the original bumper cover. But much like other Roush products, detailed instructions and all needed hardware are included. Follow along, and we'll show you what is required as we install this kit on our 2014 Mustang GT.
Open the trunk and remove the two plastic nuts and two pushpin type retainers. Release the truck trim panel. Disconnect the trunk light electrical connector, and remove the truck trim panel. Disconnect the right and left hand tail lamp electrical connectors.
Remove the three retaining nuts per tail light, and push the harness grommets through the body. And remove both the left hand, and right hand, tail lamps. Raise and support the rear of the car.
In the wheel well opening, at the front of the rear bumper cover on each side, there are three screws that need to be removed. Then release the center clips on both the left hand and right hand splash shield. From under the car, remove and discard the two retaining clips. Remove the four pin type retainers, two per side.
Remove the pin type retainers from each retaining arm. Pull outward on the left hand, and the right hand, side of the bumper, to release it from the body. And then fully remove the rear bumper cover. Unplug and pull the license light harness through the rear panel.
Remove the two reflectors and the center trim piece by depressing the retaining tabs. Cut out the provided template. Tape the template to the bumper cover. And mark the area to cut. Using a center punch, mark the center of the holes on the template.
Remove the template and use an 1/8 inch drill bit to drill the pilot holes. Finish the holes with a 1/4 inch drill bit. Cut off the area you mark, using the template. Mark the lines to be slotted on the bumper cover. And using a body saw, open up the slots.
Clean up your rough edges with a file and a sharp knife. Repeat all of these steps for the other side. Using the U-nut template, tape it in place on the back bumper cover. And using a center punch, mark the center of the holes on the template. Cut out the 9/16 and 3/8 holes out of the template, and trace the openings to be cut on the bumper cover. Repeat these steps for the other side.
Drill the marked pilot holes using an 1/8 inch drill bit. Then open the holes up, using a 3/8 drill bit. And on the slotted parts, use a 9/16 drill bit. Repeat these steps for the other side.
Cut out the center template for the valance panel, and tape it into position on the bumper cover, with the arrow pointing upward. Using your center punch, mark the center of the holes to be drilled. Remove the template, and use your 1/8 inch drill bit to open the pilot holes, and finish off with a 1/4 inch drill bit.
Mark your lines to be slotted, and use your body saw to open up the slots. Install the provided two J-clips into the holes on the rear bumper cover. Using the template for the right hand and left hand bumper cover mounts, hold it in place, and use your center punch to mark the center of the holes. Drill your 1/8 inch pilot hole, and finish opening the hole with a 3/8 bit.
Using rubbing alcohol, clean the bumper cover and the rear valence mating surfaces. Allow the alcohol to dry. And then apply 3M Adhesion Promoter to the rear valance, where the double-sided tape will be applied. Allow the adhesion promoter to dry for at least a minute. Install the double-sided tape on the backside of the rear valence, leaving the red film facing upward.
Peel the backing off of the double sided tape. Place the rear valance onto the bumper cover, and install the 12 U-nuts, two W-clips, and two eight millimeter bolts onto the back of the valance. Reinstall the two rear reflectors. Using your paint pen, it is also necessary to mark and trim a few areas on the rear bumper impact absorber.
Take your body saw and completely remove them from the rear bumper impact absorber. Lubricate the muffler hangers and rubber isolators. Loosen the two axle back to tailpipe retaining clamps. Remove each muffler from the car.
Slide your new muffler into the insulators, and slide your new clamp over the end of the axle back muffler, and attach it to the tailpipe loosely. Repeat this for the other side. Attach the bumper cover to the car. Remove the factory bolt from the mounting bracket.
Mark the center of the two holes on the new rear valance, on the center bumper cover mount. Drill two pilot holes with 1/8 inch drill bit, and finish up with a 1/4 inch drill bit. Install the supplied two J-clips. Install the supplied two eight millimeter bolts, and one factory bolt that you removed earlier.
Reinstall the two push pins you removed from the bumper cover mounts earlier, along with the supplied two eight millimeter bolts, and two nuts for the valence mount to the bumper cover mount. Align the tip in the rear valance opening. And tighten down your axle back to tailpipe clamp, as well as the tip to muffler clamp. Do this on the other side.
Now you can lower your car, finish installing the rear bumper cover, and reinstall your tail lights. And that little bit of work, ladies and gentleman, was well worth the effort. Because not only does this thing look awesome, it sounds mean. And if you follow the instructions, and take your time, you'll have no problem getting this rear valance and exhaust cap back kit on your car. Pick yours up at LatemodelRestoration.com, and be sure to check out our full offering a Roush performance parts.
While there are a few spoiler options available for '10 to '14 Mustangs, there are none that are as aggressive as a Roush performance three piece for your spoiler. Some drilling is required to mount the outer two pieces. However, if your Mustang is equipped with the factory pedestal mount spoiler, then the middle section will bolt right into place on your deck hood, without having to drill any holes at all.
The spoiler will need to be prepped and painted before installation. So you want to make sure and plan ahead for that time and expense. Open the trunk and remove the 13 pushpins that retain the underside liner. Remove the liner from the trunk lid. Remove the two plugs to access the outboard mounting holes.
Remove the four nuts from the factory spoiler. Be careful not to drop the nuts into the trunk lid. Do not reuse these nuts. Use a heat gun to carefully heat the entire perimeter of the factory spoiler. As the spoiler becomes warm, pull straight up to release the tape from the trunk lid.
You may need to take a plastic scraper to help separate the tape from the trunk lid. Be careful not to scratch the paint. Remove any foam tape residue that stayed on the deck lid. You can use an eraser wheel, and then clean the entire area with rubbing alcohol.
Wipe down the underside of the spoiler surface with alcohol and allow it to dry. Apply the supplied adhesion promoter to the surface area, where the tape is to be applied. Allow the adhesion promoter to dry for at least one minute.
Apply the foam gaskets and tape. And after positioning the tape, apply firm pressure across the entire taped surface to ensure a good bond, making sure that the red pull tabs for the double-sided tape are accessible. Using the outer spoiler template, start on the driver side, aligning the template on the quarter panel using the indicated alignment features. Center punch the sheet metal at the three locations for the bolt holes.
Remove the template. Using an 1/8 inch drill bit, drill three pilot holes per side in the center punch positions. Move up to a 5/16 inch drill bit and finish off the holes. De-burr the holes and apply a rust inhibitor at the bare metal.
Remove one bolt from each side of the trunk liner, and pull the liner away from the rear corners. Start with the driver side spoiler end, and loosely install two bolts and one nut per side. Ensure that the double-sided tape pull tabs are not hidden, and are fully accessible. Pull the tape tabs and attach the spoiler end to the quarter panel. And tighten down the one nut and two bolts. Move to the passenger side and repeat these steps.
Lower the trunk lid, and check the alignment of the center spoiler to the two quarter panel end pieces. Pull the tape tabs and attach the spoiler to the trunk lid. Open the trunk lid and tighten down the four retaining nuts. Reinstall your trunk liner and the 13 pushpins. Reinstall the two rubber grommets on the outer spoiler access holes.
If you're wondering what you'd do if your car was not equipped with a factory spoiler, well Roush includes a template to allow you to mark and drill the holes needed for the center section as well. As with all other Roush products, detailed instructions, templates, hardware, and tape are included. You can grab your Roush spoiler, along with any other Roush part you might want for your Mustang, at latemodelrestoration.com.
Roush - The Art of Performance Engineering
ROUSH Performance is the first specialty-vehicle company to combine race-proven technologies with advanced automotive engineering. The result, a unique mix of street car and race car...Is a ROUSH car. Or more specifically, a ROUSH Mustang or F-150 pickup with styling, performance, and handling characteristics derived from the racetrack and modified for street legal usage. The vehicles and components produced by ROUSH Performance are imprinted with Jack Roush's vision, passion for performance, and commitment to excellence. He personally approves the design, engineering, fit, finish and overall performance of each package, ensuring that his personal standards are met prior to production and product release. Many of these products are designed by the same engineering group that has helped Roush Racing become the winningest Ford racing team in history.
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