Welcome to another segment of McLeod instructional videos. Today we're going to show you how to install the Fox body Mustang conversion kit that will eliminate cable drag, reduce pedal effort, give you more clutch release with smoother clutch engagement, and improve overall driveability. So sit back and enjoy.
Hi. My name's Fred Taylor, and I'm the Operations Manager here at McLeod Racing Clutches. And today we're going to show you how to install the hydraulic throwout bearing conversion kit in the Fox body Mustangs. So come along. We'll show you how it's done.
OK. Now when you get your kit, these are the components you're going to find in your box. It comes with your master cylinder, your quadrant. This will replace the quadrant you currently have in your car now. This mounts to the pedal underneath the dash. You have a click adjuster. This mounts to the firewall in the engine compartment. Your master cylinder will connect to that. And we'll talk about that later.
Then you have your hose that goes from your reservoir to your master cylinder. Then you have your feed line that goes from your master cylinder to your slave cylinder. Now McLeod makes two different types of slave cylinders. For easy installation, we have the external slave cylinder that mounts right to your stock fork. Then for those that's a little bit more adventurous, we have the internal hydraulic throwout bearing. This mounts right to the front of your transmission. So that's going to require you getting inside your bellhousing, which is going to mean you're going to have to remove the transmission. But it's well worth it after you've done this.
With a hydraulic throwout bearing, what that does is it eliminates the fork and the ball stud, therefore you don't have any geometry issues. It also gives you zero bearing clearance between the fingers of the clutch and the bearing itself. It eliminates pedal free play, therefore you've got instant clutch. You don't have any wasted motion getting to the clutch before you disengage the clutch. Therefore you've got more release with a hydraulic throwout bearing. It's also self-adjusting, so you'll never have to adjust the clutch again. Now let's get started.
We've got all of our parts. What we've done is we've assembled them. And I'm going to show you how to bench bleed the system outside the car, so that when you go to put it in the car, everything will be already pre-bled. You won't have to crack a line or anything. And it'll be nice and dry.
So what we've done is we've taken our reservoir, we've connected it to our master cylinder, we've connected it to our slave cylinder. This is what we're going to install today. So the first thing you want to do is you want to fill the reservoir up with fluid. Always remember, air travels up. So we want to keep the slave cylinder down at the bottom. And a little tip is, if you'll tip this so that air runs uphill to this port. And then it'll run across and up into the master cylinder. And then it'll come up to the inlet port. And then it'll go all the way up into the reservoir.
So we're going to start pumping this. And I know it's a little hard to see right now, but there are air bubbles. As I'm pumping this, air bubbles are coming up into here. As you notice, we're not even opening up a line, not a bleeder valve or anything. So all you've got to do is just pump it. Just keep pumping it until you see all the bubbles quit. When the bubbles quit, you are bled. So you might have to pump this thing 15 or 20 times.
It's always best to push it, pause, lift, pause, push it, pause, lift, pause. If you do that, then it doesn't break up the air bubbles into foam and it's much easier to get them out. So we just keep on bleeding it until there's no more bubbles.
OK. Now you can always test this, because if the bubbles are out, when you pull on this master cylinder you can see that the rod of the slave cylinder moves. OK. So it means we've got all the air out of the system.
Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to show you how to disconnect this line and not lose any fluid. So we have a little tool right here. And what it does, it goes right behind this little plastic sleeve. You should see that little plastic sleeve right there. So we're going to slide that right in there. And then I'm going to push the line together, push on that sleeve, and it pops right apart. No fluid loss. See? You can do no fluid loss at all. Now later on when you want to go and put it back together, you just have to snap it together. And you're done.
So now that we're all bled, I'm going to show you how to go ahead and install it. And now that we've disconnected the top cable from the quadrant and we've removed it from the firewall, now we'll go underneath and disconnect it from the bellhousing and the fork. Go underneath the car, and you want to disconnect the cable from the fork. OK. After you've done that, you'll remove the clip. Once the clip is removed, you'll just pull the cable straight out. You've already removed it from the top. Once you've got it out, that's it.
OK. What we're doing right now is we're installing the click adjuster to the firewall. We've pulled the cable out, we've pulled the rubber grommet out. And now he's installing the first part of the click adjuster. This is what we're going to use to adjust the master cylinder to get the free play out of the cable, and also adjust our pedal height.
OK. Now that you've got your base mounted to the firewall, then we're going to go ahead and put the other part of it, the sleeve with the nylon bushing in it. This is what the master cylinder will sit in. The master cylinder does not bolt in, it just sits in this pocket. And it's just like a ball joint.
Now when you first put this in, you want to adjust it all the way in till the stop. This will allow you to have free play in the cable when you stick the master cylinder through to hook it up to your quadrant. Then you can adjust it out after you've got it all attached.
Now that we've got everything out of the way, we're going to take our complete unit that we've already pre-bled, and we're going to drop it right on down. Now we're going to drop it between the steering column and the frame. It might be a little bit tight, but you can reroute everything, get the hoses and stuff out of the way, once you get it all down in there.
So we are dropping it straight on down. And right now all we're worried about doing is, once it gets down to the bottom, we're just going to mount the master cylinder and the reservoir. And the reservoir is remote, so you can mount it just about anywhere you want.
We are fitting our master cylinder right into that pocket, the click adjuster which we mounted earlier. As you can see, we haven't even disconnected the reservoir or anything. Everything's still hooked up, already bled. Now this is a little tight. Depending on what aftermarket accessories you have, it might be a little tighter or a little more clearance.
So this is basically what we're going to do. OK. We've got the master cylinder in place. We've got the reservoir basically laid over in the area that we want to mount it. Now all we have to do is go underneath and hook up the slave cylinder, adjust the rod, put the quadrant in, hook up the cable, adjust it, and we're done.
OK. Now what we've done is we've dropped it through the frame, between the steering column and the frame, and it's hanging straight down. So now what we'll do is we'll snake it up in through there. And you notice that we have a nylon bushing that plugs right into the hole of the stock bellhousing where the cable was. OK. So that gives it a nice little nylon pocket for the slave cylinder to sit in. Just like that.
Now one note you want to make sure of, and that is you want the bleeder valve at top, at 12 o'clock. You want the feed line to be at 6 o'clock, straight down. Because in the event that we need to bleed this at any time, then the air always travels up. So we want the bleeder valve to be at the top.
Once we've got the slave cylinder mounted to the bellhousing, then we want to adjust the rod to take the free play out. The rod is adjusted. It's got a little half-moon ball on the back to fit in the pocket of the fork. So you just want to thread that on up and get the free play out.
We've got the slave cylinder connected through the bellhousing and the rods through the fork. We've got a half-moon ball with a jam nut on the back side. So now what we're going to do is adjust the rod to take the free play out of the fork.
OK. Now just open up this little bleeder slightly. Let a little bit of air out, let it back in. I'm going to open it up right now, get a little bit more out. See the bubbles coming out? Close it now. And you can check right here when it's starting to pull. OK. We're going to open up the bleeder. I'm going to pull the cable some more.
And see as we do that, you can tell by right here. See? We've just about got it now. Open up that bleeder. A little more air. Close it down. See? And that's getting real tight. And we'll give it one more go. OK. I'm just going to open up the bleeder. And I'll pull the fluid again, lock it. And we've got it. We are completely bled.
So now all I have to do is put this cable back in where it came from, which is this click adjuster. Push it all the way in.
Now I happen to have help. And he's inside right now hooking up the cable. So that makes it a lot easier, when you've got one person pushing it in to the firewall, the other one hooking it up to the quadrant. How we doing Lee?
I need more cable.
OK. I'm going to turn this adjuster even further in. OK. And we're in as far as it will go.
OK. Now we're hooked up, so I'm back to adjusting out. OK. Give a few more turns. OK. Lee, why don't you give that a try? Now we're going to cycle through this again. We're going to let it take a set.
OK. Now we'll continue to be adjust it to take the remaining slop out. And then what we will do is we will start the car up and we will check our pedal engagement to make sure that the clutch is engaging right where we want it to be.
And there you it. We've completely removed the old cable linkage out of the car. We've installed our new McLeod hydraulic conversion kit into the car. Now this fits 1979 to 2004 Mustangs with cable linkage. So anything with a cable linkage, this kit will fit.
And now what we've done here is, we've eliminated the drag of the stock cable. Therefore our pedal pressures has gotten lighter. Because we have no clearance at the bearing and it's self-adjusting, we have instant clutch, we have more release, we have a softer pedal. So there you have. it.