Easily Completes New 2011 5.0L Engine Swap Or Upgrade
OE Ford Quality Parts
Made In The USA
Includes All NEW Parts
Fits 2011-2014 5.0L 4V Motor
What's in the Box
(1) PCM With Ford Racing Calibration
(1) Electronic Throttle Control Pedal
(1) OBD-II Diagnostic Port
(1) Air Intake Assembly
(1) MAF Sensor
(1) Upper Radiator Hose
(1) Lower Radiator Hose
All Other Needed Wiring & Harness Adapters
Take the complexity and mystery out of wiring a late model 5.0L 4V engine! This crate engine control pack (M-6017-A504V) is designed to run the M-6007-M50 5.0L 4-Valve crate engine. Includes PCM with Ford Racing calibration.
Other Features Include:
- Includes Electronic Throttle Control accelerator pedal eliminates throttle cable routing problems
- Unique controls pack harness replaces stock body harness and is designed for streetrod installation
- Features OBD-II diagnostic port to assist in vehicle calibration upload and problem diagnosis
- Includes unique downsized power distribution module, Air box, inlet tube, MAF sensor with bolts, and EGO sensors
- PCM with Ford Racing calibration requires return type fuel system, will not work with returnless fuel system
- Installation of this PCM in a 2011 Mustang GT will result in a no-start condition. See "Tip sheets" for more tech tips about E.F.I.
- Use of an electronically controlled Automatic transmission will require the use of an additional transmission controller, not included. We reccommend a Baumannator TCS for most applications.
- Out of the box SCT devices will not read or tune the FRPP Coyote Control Pack. An SVE Custom Tune will be needed to handle any modifications (longtubes, CAI, etc.) made to a control pack run coyote swap.
Coyote swap for your Fox Body Mustang or SN95 Mustang is not has hard as it seems. With some automotive know-how and a few parts from companies like SVE, Ford Racing, BBK and Moroso you can start one of these 5.0 Coyote swap projects. In this video Jmac will go over some of the required engine swap parts needed when installing a Ford 5.0 liter Coyote motor in your foxbody Mustang or SN-95 Mustang. In our Project Coyote Swap we used the following parts:
MUSTANG FORD RACING 5.0L COYOTE CRATE ENGINE M-6007-M50
2011-14 MUSTANG FORD RACING 5.0L CRATE ENGINE CONTROL PACK M-6017-A504V
2011-14 MUSTANG FORD RACING 5.0L ENGINE COVER KIT M-9680-M50
0:00:01 - 0:00:13 Back in December of 1996 of very unassuming white 1997 Mustang SVT Cobra would sattle tan interior rolled off the assembly line on its way to its new home. It made a few stops getting some modifications and a bright orange paint
0:00:13 - 0:00:25 job where eventually it landed in Arizona at the legendary firebird raceway with the Bob Bondurant school of high-performance driving. There it would serve its first part of life
0:00:25 - 0:00:36 as a teaching tool for drivers to hone their skills on the race track. When its tenure was done like all of its brothers and sisters this SVT Cobra was sold off to either private collectors enthusiast or other racers.
0:00:36 - 0:00:44 Now a lot of these cars turned into full-fledged race cars just like this one. Some were put into bubbles fully restored and some returned to street duty.
0:00:44 - 0:00:54 This SVT Cobra has seen many miles on many tracks across the USA and is currently owned by warren hall and driven and maintained by scott hubbard sponsored by LatemodelRestoration.com
0:00:54 - 0:01:07 Now scott is one of the few people credited with fueling Shannon's fire when it came to his passion for mustangs. When they came into possession of this Mustang it already had seen 1997 SVT cobra motor long gone
0:01:07 - 0:01:21 In its place was an 03-04 Mustang Mach 1 motor which recently gave up the ghost, broke a rod and ventilated the block. So the decision we were faced with was replace the motor with what came out or upgrade and BOOM Mustang coyote swap.
0:01:21 - 0:01:33 What we have here is all the pertinent parts needed to convert this Mustang from a ho-hum 300 rear wheel horsepower Mustang to a road race rage inducing 400+ rear wheel horsepower.
0:01:33 - 0:01:48 The heart and soul of this coyote swap is the ford racing m-6007-m50 5.0 liter coyote crate engine. This Ford Racing Crate engine is the same one found in every mustang GT produced from 2011 till today.
0:01:48 - 0:01:57 We already have it covered up with the ford racing engine cover set. Laying in front of it is the Ford Racing engine control package (M-6017-A504V) that will allow this coyote engine to run.
0:01:57 - 0:02:11 Right next to it is the alternator accessory drive package (M-8600-M50BALT). A Moroso oil pan will allow this motor to bolt right into the factory 4.6L k member. BBK ceramic coated coyote swap headers (BBK-16340) and their matching offroad x pipe (BBK-1787)
0:02:11 - 0:02:29 will tie the exhausted to the cat-back. ford racing also supplied the power steering bracket (M-8511-M50BR)that way you can maintain the power steering and one of the other neat parts is the SVE pedal bracket mount bracket (SVE-9729PB) that will allow control pack pedal assembly to mount right into the Mustang floor board.
0:02:29 - 0:02:43 Where i'm sitting is going to be the future home of that ford racing coyote motor. Now subscriber to our YouTube channel because we're gonna keep you updated as our coyote swap progresses and for all of your coyote swap needs - check out LatemodelRestoration.com
If you are following along with our Mustang Coyote Swap project in the LatemodelRestoration.com SN-95 race car - you are in luck. Today is the second part of the swap. The first major component to doing a Ford 5.0 Coyote swap into any vehicle is to figure out how you want to route the Ford Racing control pack ( M-6017-A504V ) in the engine bay. Because we know there are so many different ways for this to be done we just wanted to highlight how we ran ours. Some people may want to hide wiring or locate ECU and data link connection in other places. With our Mustang we decided that having easy access to it all in the engine bay is best seeing this is a race car.
Next we addressed the fuel system modifications needed before we install the motor. Also while we were running the control pack wiring we decided we would go ahead and mount the drive by wire pedal assymbly using the SVE pedal bracket ( SVE-9729PB ). Stay tuned for the next update - its a big one! Installing the 5.0L Coyote engine into the Mustang!!
0:00:00 - 0:00:15 Quick progress update on our 97 Cobra Mustang Coyote Swap. We've got our Ford Racing control pack harness run we've got the gas pedal in place and we've got the fuel system pretty much lined out the way we want it. So let’s show you what we did. We've bent some angle brackets and mounted the pcm to the passenger side fender apron.
0:00:15 - 0:00:41
We ran the pcm harness up behind the fender apron and around the front of the core support. Quick fast in dirty we mounted the fuse box and data link connector under the hood we're not a 100% with that. We do want to get it inside the car. For the Mustang fuel system we mounted a regulator over here on the firewall. Took the factory fuel lines, cut them down and put compression fitting with AN adapter and fuel line adapter so that we we can run braided fuel line and we have the braided line run over where it's going to connect to the fuel rail.
0:00:41 - 0:01:08
Let's hop inside the card check out what we did with the pedal. Using our SVE pedal bracket, the Ford Racing control pack pedal bolted right into the Mustang. It is gonna work perfectly. We did have to bend a little bit of metal on the way to get it to plug in. On keep in mind this is not the end all be all of coyote swaps. There are several liberties we can take on this Mustang that you may not be able to take on your Mustang because we are working on a race car. We just want to illustrate how easy it is to put a 5.0L coyote motor in any late model Mustang.
0:01:08 - 0:01:27
The Ford Racing control pack is clearly labeled and comes with intense instructions so it's pretty clear as to where everything goes. On our next checkup we're gonna show you how the motor goes into the Cobra. So subscriber to our YouTube channel and check out LatemodelRestoration.com for all of your Mustang coyote swap parts!!
Well Jmac said it best, It's D-day here at LatemodelRestoration.com. We will be installing the 5.0L Ford motor into our SN95 Cobra. This Coyote swap is gettting closer to being fired up for the first time! Follow along in the video as Jmac walks you through our install procedure. We decided to keep the factor k member for this project Mustang.
Be sure to subscribe and get all the latest updates on our Project Coyote Swap!
0:00:01 - 0:00:14 Well folks it is D-day on our Bondurant Cobra coyote swap project. We’re finally going to get the motor in the Mustang. Follow along, wew will show you a couple steps it takes to get it in the Stang. Next time you see it it's going to be running!
0:00:14 - 0:00:31 Well if you remember, I told you going with the tubular k member was the way to go with this mustang coyote swap. We are stuck on staying with the factory k member that came on this cobra. Well it is fighting us because we can't drop the motor in from the top. The headers and the oil pan are all over everything. So what we're going to have to do is get the Pony up in the air a little bit.
0:00:31 - 0:00:35 Drop the k member down so we can put in the motor. Now we're still going to put the motor in from the top, that way you can still do this in your driveway with some jacks, jack stands and an engine hoist. Yeah we're doing this on the lift but it's easy to replicate at home.
0:00:46 - 0:01:10 Before we got serious with the dropping in the engine, we pulled out the steering shaft to free up some much-needed room in the engine bay. Once the k member was removed from the car, we lowered the car a little bit and slid the 5.0L engine into the engine bay. we then raised the Pony back up a bit and hung the k member from the motor mounts using the motor mount nuts to hold it in the place.
0:01:10 - 0:01:36 Lifting the engine and k member with the engine hoist, we squared the k member into the car and tighten the retaining bolts. We then installed the steering rack and then tightened up the motor mount nuts. And there you go motor in a cobra. Next time you see us, we will have this Mustang running and we'll have some dyno numbers for you. So for all your mustang coyote swap needs, check out LatemodelRestoration.com
The day is finally here! It is time to strap our Bondurant Cobra down to a dyno and see just how much power the 5.0L Coyote engine is making in it new home. If you have been following out Coyote Swap project then you know it has come a long way. It features BBK Coyote Swap long tube headers, Moroso oil pan, Ford Racing Controls Pack, and plenty of the SVE Coyote Swap parts.
On the final dyno pull, the Bondurant Cobra made 447.4HP and 411.5 ft-lbs with the JLT intake installed and some custom tuning by Jeff at Central Texas Performance using a SCT 3015 handheld tuner.
Big thanks to Central Texas Performance for the dyno time and tuning help!
0:00:08 - 0:00:55 With the coyote swap Bondurant cobra up and running, we had a couple of burning questions that we just had to answer. One how safe was the tune and was it going to be able to handle all the high rpm stresses. Two how much power was she making. So we drove on down the Central Texas Performance to let Jeff work his magic and see just how much we could squeeze out her on the dyno.
0:00:55 - 0:01:48 we got the baseline pull done and we put down 420 hp and 408 ft-lbs not too bad so we have great expectations for the final numbers after we add the JLT intake and let Jeff work his magic. Holy crap needless to say if we are impressed this Mustang put down a phenomenal number after Jeff work his magic with the SCT software loaded up the tune with the SCT 3015.
0:01:48 - 0:02:09 Just to quell any doubters we're running a 3550 5 speed transmission so all pulls were done in forth gear which is one to one direct drive. We are also running 17" wheels with 26" tall tires. 3.55 gears and this race car has a lot less parasitic loss with the accessory drive and the drivetrain.
0:02:09 - 0:02:10 Without any further ado here are the numbers. Check out LatemodelRestoration.com for all your Coyote swap needs!
In the video Jmac walks you through the final steps we had to complete before we could start our Bondurant Cobra Coyote Swap. He quickly rehighlights the BBK Coyote Swap headers, off road x pipe and the dumped cat back system we have in place. He also highlights the Ford Racing aluminum driveshaft, Quicktime bellhousing, Stifflers tubular crossmembers and other driveline items we used in the swap. Lastly Jmac hits on some of the most critical parts of this Mustang Coyote swap - the brake system, oil system and the power steering system.
To retain the sway bar, we were forced to relocate the oil filter and find another solution for power steering pump bracket. We used the Ford Racing Remote Oil Filter adapter, M6881M50, to accomplish moving the oil filter. We tried to use the Ford Racing Power Steering Pump Bracket, M8511M50BR, but unfortunately it would not clear the sway bar. So we turned to the SVE accessory brackets to give us all needed clearance. It even allows for us to easily keep the hydroboost system by putting the power steering pump in the factory 96-04 location.
The engine wiring harness plugged right into the Ford Racing Controls Pack with no issue. Next up we connected our braided fuel line to the fuel rail with the help of our 5.0L fuel rail adapter fitting, RUS-640853. With that done, we now had the brakes hooked up, the engine plugged into the ecu, the fuel connected to the motor. Next on the list is connecting the clutch assembly to the pedal. We reused the existing clutch cable and routed it around the new 5.0L engine. We also addressed the coolant lines to hook the engine up to the radiator. The only thing missing at this point is electrical power. You will have to use a battery relocation kit to move the battery to the trunk.
With that complete the LatemodelRestoration.com Mustang Coyote Swap officially runs! Now it is time get this Cobra to the dyno to she how much extra power we are making!
0:00:03 - 0:00:27 Now the moment we've all been waiting for. The fluids are topped off. Fuel in the tank. We’re going to powered up and turn the key. Man she sounds pretty healthy doesn't she? Let’s show you why.
0:00:27 - 0:00:46 Let’s start at the back and move all the way to the front. We will show you everything we did to button this thing together. we're able to keep the existing exhaust and you can do the same whether it's a cat back or dumps like we have here. We bolted them up to the massive bbk x pipe and then bolted that to the BBK long tube headers. Just for 79-04 mustang coyote swaps.
0:00:46 - 0:01:10 For the drivetrain we used a ford racing aluminum driveshaft and we were trained the bell housing transmission clutch and flywheel that were already in the car with the 4.6L. That’s a Quick Time bell housing with a Tremec 3550 transmission. The 11 inch clutch and eleven inch 8 bolt flywheel wear already in the car. To keep the transmission steady in the car, we turned to stifflers for one of their tubular cross members that way we can clear that massive BBK x pipe.
0:01:10 - 0:01:41 Moving up to the front we ran into a little interference so to speak. Both revolving around sway bar. One was oil filter. we need to go ahead and move the oil filter to remote location and to do that we use the ford racing remote oil filter adapter. Over on the other side we try to use the ford racing power steering pump bracket which would work great on a street rod or maybe some other vehicle not running a stock sway bar but if you're in a fox body or SN95 new edge and you want to keep your sway bar, man that bracket is not going work.
0:01:41 - 0:02:17 So we went to our SVE accessory drive kit which actually moved the alternator from the driver's side and spun it around and put it in front of the motor on the passenger side and they kept the power steering pump in the stock 96-04 location. This allowed us to use the factory pump and keep the factory hoses from the hydra boost to the steering rack. For the brakes you've got two options. You can go with a manual brake conversion or if you're working with the 96-04 mustang like we are you can retain the stock hydraboost 79-95 mustangs can be converted to hydroboost by sourcing all the parts from a wrecked 96-04 GT or cobra.
0:02:17 - 0:02:40 The engine harness that comes on the ford racing crate motor plugs right into the pcm for the control pack. to connect our braided fuel line to the stock fuel rail on the crate motor we used one of our adapter fittings which is a simple push on installation the existing clutch cable routed around the coyote 5.0L just like it did with the 4.6L it replaced.
0:02:40 – 0:03:03 The cooling system retaining existing d gas reservoir as well as the radiator. we were able to use the upper radiator hose included in the FRPP control pack. The lower hose however did not work. After some careful searching we did come up with a solution. But when doing a swap like this, there's always a but, we did have two fab up a little shield to keep the hose out of the power steering pulley.
0:03:03 - 0:03:07 Because of the driver’s side air inlet location of the coyote motor, you will also have to install a battery relocations kit. you can't really relocate the air inlet to the passenger side because of the upper radiator hose and you can't run a 79-85 battery location on the passenger side because of interference with the valve cover subscriber or YouTube channel for more on this project and check out LatemodelRestoration.com for all of your Coyote Swap needs!
In this update, Jmac shows you everything you need to do before you can install the Coyote motor into your SN-95 or Fox Body Mustang. He covers topics such as tubular k members. If you have a 96-04 Mustang with a 4.6L engine already in your Mustang then you can use your stock k member. Jmac shows you what clearance issues you will have if you use a stock k member with long tube headers.
In this Mustang Coyote Swap, we used a set of BBK Coyote swap long tube headers. They will be later mated up to a BBK Coyote Swap off-road x pipe. We also address motor mounts need for a engine swap like this. We used a set of factory 96-04 4.6L motor mounts. The next major component needed to do a Coyote Swap in a Fox or SN95 Mustang is an oil pan. We turned to Moroso and used their Coyote Swap oil pan. It did have to have minor modification to clear the long tube headers.
Lastly we used a Quick Time bell-housing to install our Tremec 3550 transmission to the Coyote engine. Jmac goes over some of the minor modifications needed to make a Tremec transmission work in your Coyote swap.
0:00:01 - 0:00:20 Quick coyote swap update on our 1997 Bondurant Cobra. We are almost ready to drop the motor into place but I want to touch on a few of the modifications we had to make along the way first and foremost if you're doing this swap we highly recommend using a tubular k member using a stock a member causes you few issues.
0:00:20 - 0:00:44 Here's what they are: in using a stock k member you are going have long tube header clearance issues also because you using a stock k member you will need to use a Moroso oil pan. This oil pan does not clear the BBK long tube headers. We had to have the corner of ours modified to clear the header tub. We are running a Tremec 3550 transmission in this Mustang.
0:00:44 - 0:01:08 To mate it up to the coyote you're going to be using the Quick Time bell housing. We are also using a standard issue 96-04 Mustang eight bolt aluminum flywheel and an 11" clutch we are also using a standard issue 96-04 4.6L starter. For motor mounts we are using standard issue 96-04 4.6L motor mounts bolt right to the block no modification needed.
0:01:08 - 0:01:25 Because we're using a 4.6L modular bell housing on this coyote motor we had to enlarge the hole around the crank area so the backing plate would clear the reluctor ring and crank trigger. We had to shave down the dowel pins in the block to the same thinness as the backing plate in the Quick Time bell housing.
0:01:25 - 0:01:34 We are going ahead and get the flywheel, clutch, bell-housing installed on the motor. That way we can put this engine in that way we can show you how that goes next.
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