Need more stopping power for your high horsepower 2013-2014 Mustang Shelby GT500? Ford Racing has the solution with these 15" 2 piece brake rotors. These rotors are a great upgrade for GT500 owners who participate in performance driving events such as drag racing, auto-x, or road racing. Each rotor includes a pre-assembled brake rotor, hat, and hardware. Not only do they help your Cobra stop quicker, they save up to 10lbs of unsprung rotating mass over the factory rotors. Pick up a set today for your GT500 at LatemodelRestoration.com!
Ford Racing M-2300-T Mustang Brake Install
Ford Racing M-2300-T Mustang Brake Install
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Published on 2013-06-07 Want the ultimate in stopping power? Look no further than the Ford Racing 15" rotor 6 piston Brembo brake kit that is featured on the 13-14 Shelby GT500 - otherwise know as the M-2300-T brake kit. This big brake kit features MASSIVE 15" rotors and six piston Brembo calipers in the front. This kit didn't stop there, it also includes MASSIVE 13.8" rear rotors and GT500 specific calipers. The kit includes all needed hardware and a detailed 29 page instruction manual to ensure the installation is a breeze. The only thing you need to add is a LatemodelRestoration.com Gear Oil Kit (RP-12303K). This kit includes Royal Purple 85W140 oil and Ford Racing Friction Modifier. Also don't forget the the Lubelocker 8.8" rear differential cover gasket (LLR-F880) to ensure you don't end up with a leaky differential. Pick this FRPP kit up today and give your S197 Mustang some serious stopping power!
0:00:00 - 0:00:19 When Ford released the 2013 GT500, they very well may have released the ultimate mustang. One of the many improvements you can find on that car is the massive brake system and luckily the engineers at ford racing saw fit to release M-2300-T GT500 brake upgrade kit.
0:00:19 - 0:00:37 We’re going to start on the front show you just how easy it is to reduce your stopping distance and improve your braking performance. Front set up consistency of this massive six piston Brembo front calipers, a fifteen-inch Brembo front rotor, new pads, new lines and new brake dust shields.
0:00:37 - 0:01:07
Installation begins with raising your car in the air and supporting it would jack stands. Remove your wheel. Loosen the brake hard line from the soft lines. Cap off the vehicle side of the hard line. Remove the two 10mm bolts that retain the hose to the car and to the strut. Remove the two 15mm bolts that retain the caliber to the spindle and then remove the entire caliber and hose assembly from the car. Slide your rotor off the hub.
0:01:07 - 0:01:33 Slide your new rotor on the hub. Grab your new brake caliper. Slide it over the rotor. Install your two 15mm retaining bolts using a little bit of blue Loctite or new bolts. Grab your new hose. Install your two 10mm hose retaining bolts. One on the strut and one on the frame rail. With the included banjo bolt, attach it to the new caliber and torque it to spec. remove the main cross-pin and from your new caliber.
0:01:33 - 0:02:10 Slide your new pads into place and reinstall the cross pin. Grab your tension spring. Get it oriented in the proper way. Slide one retaining pin into place. Hold the other end down and slide the other retaining pin into place. Pull your cap off and tighten down your hard line to the new soft line. Go ahead and bleed your brakes starting with the inside bleeder first. Then go to the outside bleeder and then back to the inside bleeder.
0:02:10 - 0:02:37 For the rear portion of the M-2300-T upgrade, you are going to get a GT500 specific rear caliper, a specific rear axle flange bracket and a 13.8 inch rotor. You may notice we already have the Steeda upgrade on here already. so there should be a little variation. I will tell you what you need to do for your stock brakes and show you how easy it is to go back together. Go ahead and left the rear of your mustang in the air. Support it with jack stands.
0:02:37 - 0:03:03 Then remove the two pan-hard bar retaining bolts and take the panhard bar out of your mustang. Remove the 10 rear-end cover bolts. Break the seal between the cover and the rear end. Drain all the fluid. Then remove the small cross pin retain bolt. Then you can slide the cross pin out of the differential. On both sides you're going to want to remove the parking brake cable retaining clip
0:03:03 - 0:03:37 and then remove the parking brake cable from the caliper itself. From there, you can remove the two calipers to bracket retaining bolts and remove the caliber from the rotor. Slide both rotors off and remove the retaining bolt for the ABS sensors. Slide both ABS sensors out of the bracket. Taking one axle and push it inward toward the center of the rearend until you expose the c-clip. Grab a pair of needle nose pliars or magnet and pull the c-clip off. Then you can remove that axle. Repeat those steps for the other side. With the axles out of the car, you have full access to the caliper flange brackets.
0:03:37 - 0:04:11 They are retained to the axle housing by four bolts. You can remove those four bolts on each side and discard the old flange brackets. Side the new flames brackets into place making sure that the machined face touches the machined faced of the axle housing. Before you slide the bolts into place, don't hammer them in. there are a couple of threads in that bracket. You want to screw the bolts, each one of them, into place and actually holds the bolts in and keeps them from falling out when you put the bracket on the car. Take your speed nuts and start them on. Tighten down all four of those retaining bolts. Slide your axles back into place.
0:04:11 - 0:05:04 Engaged the c-clips and pull the axles out toward the outside of the car to keep them in place. Put your cross-pin back in and tighten down the retaining bolt. Reinstall the ABS sensors. Slide your new rotor in the place. Grab your new caliper and bracket assembly and remove the caliper from the bracket. Slide the bracket into place and retain it for that flange bracket with the supplied two bolts. Slide your pads into place and you can slide your new caliper over your pads. Re-engage your parking brake cable and install the retaining clip. Do this on both sides. On one side you want to remove the banjo bolt from the fluid hose from the old caliper and transfer that to the new caliper while replacing the copper washers and torque to spec. do this on both sides.
0:05:04 - 0:05:44 Now you're ready to bleed the brakes. You want to start at the right rear. Then the left rear. The bleeding procedure is outlined in detail in the instructions. This is a great opportunity to grab one of our lube locker rearend gaskets. Completely reusable. Doesn’t require any silicone. Clean up your mating surfaces. Tighten your rearend cover down. Fill the rearend with fluid. Slide pan-hard bar back into place. Tighten it down. Reattach your wheels. Lower the car. You’re ready for test drive. And there you have it. For just a few hours of your time in your own garage you can have an awesome braking performance of the 2013-14 GT500.
0:05:44 - 0:06:05 Now if you are a little fuzzy on some of the steps, don't worry because the M-2300-T brake kit includes a 29 page instruction manual that covers step-by-step and gives you all the torque specs for every single nut and bolt. For you folks have been around long enough to remember the fox body heyday. The M-2300-T kit is that M-2300-K kit of today. You can get yours at LatemodelRestoration.com
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