Mustang K members from Team Z Motorsports make it easy to drop some unwanted weight off the front of your 1979 to 2004 Mustang. The Team Z Mustang K members are available individually or in kit form that include tubular front control arms and coil over kits. These K members are also available in popular motor swap configurations, such as the LS and mod motor swap versions.
Now let's watch as Team Z shows us just how easy it is to install these K members into a fox body Mustang.
OK. So Dave, I see we have this-- what year is this? Stripped down model?
This is a '90 Project Dirtball.
We're not going to say what it is or who it is or why it is, we just know that it's going to be a fast car.
It's going to be a fast car and saying Project Dirtball, all the [INAUDIBLE] people will know exactly who we're talking about.
OK. So we're going to put the K member in. Now this-- now, what we did here, just to let everybody know, because somebody's going to look this, so we took everything apart because it's easier for the camera guys right there-- the camera guys-- keep everything going in.
So you out there, the people, can see how easy this is. So what's first?
Normally there would be an engine sitting in here, of course. You have to use a cherry picker, support the engine with a cherry picker, and disconnect the motor mounts. You don't have to do is that with this one, of course, because we don't have an engine in it. But normally you would have it on a cherry picker and you would support the engine, come down, take 2 bolts out of the motor mounts, and then drop your old K member and front suspension on it.
And you could do that all as a unit. Once the engine is supported, take your motor mounts out, and then you've got eight bolts. If your tires and wheels are up, pop the spindle off the A-arm and drop it all as one unit, and take it out to the scrapyard.
Got it. Now the most important thing is make sure the engine is supported.
We don't need the engine dropping on anybody.
You need a cherry-picker. You need to have the engined supported good. We'll say it one more time.
[LAUGHTER] OK. So what's our next step?
Next step would be to get all the hardware out and together.
And we have this handy little hardware kit that comes with it. There's four 100 millimeter, 14 millimeter by 100 millimeter bolts for the frame rail. These attach, these plates here, to the bottom of the frame rail. Set those out. And we have 4 A-arm bolts. 5/8 straight 8 A-arm bolts. And, of course, we've got the nuts, and we've got the hardware for the back plates on the frame rail also.
Put the 2 A-arm bolts over there. And we've got hardware down on the floor here already.
Just for the shot.
We're ready to rock.
We're ready to rock. Take our 100 millimeters. Come down on it. This is going to be scary. It's so simple. [LAUGHTER[ Put it up. Put your 100 millimeter bolt through. There's usually a nut plate on there that you spin it up in.
Right. But the nut plate is done.
The nut plate's done. Once we set this thing down, we're probably going to have an acid disc.
OK. Now we've got the ones for back here, right?
Right. Here's two bolts here for back there.
Man, he stripped out all the nut plates on this puppy. You got bolts for me.
OK. C'mon Dean, how can you do it without looking?
I know. I'm left-handed.
And that's it. We get some branches and tighten all the hardware up.
Of course you leave everything loose?
Everything loose until you get everything in.
And then tighten it all down.
Tighten it all down. I mean, we can show you how easy it is to do an A-arm.
[INAUDIBLE] slides right in. Bolt in.
This is great.
Now did you send pictures with your instructions? Because some of them wonder.
Well we're going to have video now, so we're not going to need any pictures, because they can absolutely see how it goes.
So they can go online and look at it.
Yep. Well that's the whole premise to make it a lot easier for your average installer to really be able to wrap their head around it by having an install video. But that's how easy it goes in. Literally, I've had customers have their four year old kid help them put a K nut ring.
And then this is your rack mount, so the rack just slides over it?
Slides on that, and you adjust the steering shaft a little bit. Normally, the steering shaft can slide in and out of the column a little bit. We do drop the rack a little bit. You have to pull the shaft out of the column, maybe 3/4 of an inch. Everything will line back up--
And the reason you drop the rack is?
Hand clearance so that you can lower your engine or use a set of drop mounts to lower your engine or put a bigger oil pan, a larger capacity oil pan.
Got it. So you've worked all the bugs out?
We've worked all the bugs out. Like I said, we started building K members five years ago. We got tired of waiting four or five weeks for the competitors to deliver one to us, or the ones that were out there that you could get, the quality just was not where it needed to be. So we actually bought another company that was making K members at the time, and we looked at everybody else's product and decided to just start over.
Really. Like I said, we built headers. We had the most header clearance, the way we bend our bar, where we put our radius. There's just way more room for a set of big tube headers or a turbo system or anything like that.
So does your K member clear everybody's headers?
Pretty much. Actually, there's companies that are manufacturing their headers around our K member now. It's such a common piece. They're Dynatech, AFCO, they build their headers around our K member.
Wow. That's impressive. How much weight does this take off? Once it's all said and done?
Doing this swap, the K member, the A-arms, and the coil-over kit, it's 89 pounds.
That's a lot of weight off the front.
Significant amount of weight off the front, and if you switch to aftermarket brakes, use a set of lightweight race brakes, it's closer to the 100 pounds.
Wow. That's a lot of weight, man. And we all know weight equates to time.
That's great. Now, this is-- and it all uses standard Mustang parts. I mean, like the rack, there's nothing crazy about the rack.
Standard space on a rack. You can put a power rack on. Most people switch to a manual rack when they're doing this and they put the skinnies on the front. But, yeah, we actually-- the shape of the A-arm, we kept the back bar straight so if somebody wanted to use a deep backspace wheel with a wide front tire, it wouldn't affect the turning radius or anything like that. So we did that. And this right here, what we've bolted in, is the shorter A-arm, and the geometry stays the same. It doesn't move your wheel forward or backward in the wheel well.
Yeah. I've seen that. I had to fix a guy's car where the wheels were so far forward you to like literally grind out all the holes and push the K member back. And they said it was to make it handle better, but it didn't fit.
No. No. There's a lot of companies out there that are making them that, either they're them overseas in China or they just really don't care. They want to pump cheap parts out and make a quick profit. And people are fooled. I mean ours are maybe $40 or $50 more, but it installs that easy every single time.
So comparatively speaking on the pay scale, where are you guys at? The middle? About?
We're in the middle. Yeah. Definitely. There's K members out there are a lot more expensive than ours. And there are some that are cheaper but you get what you pay for. And time after time, like I said, you will get a fit like that. Nothing has to be ground. Nothing has to be hammered on unless you have some crazy turbo system like that. But it's just a matter of bolting it in, putting your steering on, bolting your spindles up and, like I said, you'll have to bolt the sleeve that's in the steering column, pull it out another 3/4 of an inch to an inch for everything to line up and bolt up.
OK. So what's next? Lunch?