We get quite a few calls from Mustang owners needing a replacement for their Fuel Pump Hanger Bracket Assembly. Theirs is badly rusted, or one of the supply/return tubes bent or broke off, even the electrical connector getting broken beyond repair.
We listened & are happy to be able to provide a viable solution to your cries of help! This 1986-1993 Mustang Electric in-tank Fuel Pump Hanger Bracket Assembly fits both 5.0L & 2.3L cars. It accepts stock or OE type aftermarket replacement Mustang Fuel Pumps, including the popular 155lph, 190lph, & 255lph upgrades. It is covered in a corrosion resistant plating & has a new electrical connector with in-tank fuel pump wiring connections. Also included is a new lock ring with gasket, pump filter sock, rubber fuel pump to hanger insulator, & rubber s-hose with clamps.
Everything you'll need to mount your fuel pump in your Mustang fuel tank! While the tank is out, don't forget to replace the filler neck grommet!
Do you need to upgrade your fuel pump to keep you with your performance mods? Or has your pump stopped working all together? Watch this video and Jmac will show you how to remove and install a new fuel pump in an 86-97 Ford Mustang. Installation requires you to remove your fuel/gas tank. Upgrading a return style fuel pump on your Fox Body Mustang or SN-95 Mustang is a great way to ensure you your performance Mustang does not get starved of fuel!
We chose to install the BBK 255 Lph Mustang Fuel Pump (part number BBK-1607) on Project Blue Collar. The higher flowing fuel pump was going to make a great fuel foundation for the future upgrades being thrown at Project Blue Collar. The BBK Fuel Pump includes everything needed for an easy installation -- new pump, pump sock filter, wiring pigtail, s hose and hardware kit. With the BBK name you are sure to get top quality products that are all made in The United States (USA).
This BBK Fuel Pump Fits the following years and models of Mustangs: Mustang GT 4.6L, GT & LX 5.0L, V6 3.8L, Cobra 4.6L & 5.0L
Jmac: We're going to start out by removing the fuel pump assembly from the original tank. We're going to be going back in with a BBK 1607 255-liter-per-hour fuel pump. It comes with all the hardware and wiring connections you need to install it back in your Mustang.
Now, you can use a small flat-blade screwdriver and remove the plastic clip that holds on the supply jumper line to the fuel pump assembly. And then use your fuel line remover tool to go ahead and remove the fuel return line from the fuel pump assembly. Unplug your electrical connector. Remove the lock ring. Then lift the fuel pump assembly from the tank.
The sock was no longer attached to the bottom of the pump because the baffle had moved around so much it tore it off. Our fuel pump has already been replaced at some point in its life. But the connectors on a stock fuel pump will look just like this.
Now, to remove your fuel pump, you want to remove the two fasteners on the side of the assembly. That way you can gain access to the pump. Remove the hose. Remove the filter sock. And remove the pump from the hanger.
All right, with the fuel pump removed from the fuel pump assembly, we can go ahead and unhook the electrical connection. If your new fuel pump comes with a new electrical connector, go ahead and cut the wires coming out of the fuel pump assembly. Grab your new electrical connector and the butt connectors supplied with the fuel pump. Cut the connector pigtail to length. And use the supplied butt connectors to attach it to the wiring on the fuel pump assembly.
Now you can plug in your new fuel pump. Remove the red protective cap off the bottom of the pump. And remove the gray protective cap off the top of the pump.
Grab the small rubber insulator and slide it onto the pump inlet. And then grab your S hose. And if required, cut it to length. Attach the hose to the fuel pump assembly. Tighten it down with one of the supplied clamps.
Slide the fuel pump outlet into the other side of the hose and attach it with the other supplied clamp. Put your fuel pump back into the assembly. And reinstall the screws for the side of the assembly. With the assembly completely tightened back down and the pump in place, you can attach your fuel pump strainer sock.
With your fuel pump assembly completely put back together, you can go ahead and fold the sock into the tank. And then slide the pump assembly into place. You can take a peek through the filler neck hole and make sure that the sock and pump find their way into the baffle properly.
Slide the O-ring onto the fuel pump assembly in between the assembly and the tank. Put your lock ring into place. And tap it into the locked position.
We've got our new BBK 1607 255 liter per hour fuel pump installed in the tank. And the tank is ready to go back into the car. Now, you definitely want to replace your filler neck seal with our 5.0 Resto replacement.
And another thing to consider is the filler neck to trunk floor seal, which is often torn or rotted away. We've got you covered with a 5.0 Resto replacement. For more fuel system parts and other installation videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Not sure how to remove or replace your fuel gas tank on your 83-97 Ford Mustang? No worries! Here at LatemodelRestoration.com, we have you covered with plenty of tech videos and blogs to help you handle your next Mustang Project.
In this video, Jmac will walk you through a step-by-step procedure on removing your Mustang fuel tank. Removing a fuel tank is a must to replace bad fuel pumps, sending units or the common broken fuel baffle inside the tank. For this Fox Body Mustang we removed the fuel tank for all of the above reasons. This same gas tank removal process works on 94-97 SN95 Mustangs.
JONATHAN MCDONALD: If you own a Mustang, more than likely, sometime in your ownership you may have to drop the fuel tank. Well, luckily, here at latemodelrestoration.com, we have all the parts that you might need whenever you're working on your fuel system. Now, before we get started with dropping that fuel tank, you want to make sure that you either time it to where your tank is empty. Or if your fuel pump has gone out, go ahead and use a siphon pump to drain as much fuel out as you can. That way, it'll make your job easier.
Now, the first thing you need to know about removing your fuel tank-- safety gear. Wear gloves, safety glasses. You're messing with fuel, so you don't want to take any chances.
Go ahead and open up your fuel door. Remove the fuel cap. And then remove the three retaining screws that hold the filler neck to the filler box using a 10 millimeter nut driver.
Once you get your fuel cap off, you want to come up to the front to the fuel rail and access your Schrader valve. What you'll want to do there is relieve the fuel system pressure. That way, whenever you get underneath the car to remove the fuel lines, you won't have gas spraying everywhere.
Remove the cap. Depress the Schrader valve. And have a towel handy to catch the fuel that comes out. Now, with the car properly supported in the air, you want to come underneath, remove the single 5/16 retaining screw that holds on the filler neck support, and then remove the four 10-millimeter-headed retaining screws that hold the rubber seal to the trunk floor. And this will allow you to wiggle the filler neck from the tank and up out of the way so we can pull the tank down.
Now, to remove the filler neck from the fuel tank, sometimes you can just wiggle it right out. Sometimes you have to drop the tank. Now, if you're in this situation like we are, you want to properly support the tank. If you're working on the floor, you can use a floor jack or have a buddy around just to help keep you from dropping it.
All right, go ahead and remove the two 1/2-inch bolts that hold the fuel tank straps to the car. Then lower the tank slightly and shift it over toward the driver's side of your car. Then you can grab hold of the filler neck and wiggle it out of the fuel tank.
Go ahead and remove your supply and return line. Use a fuel line disconnect tool on the return side. And have your drain pan in place to catch any gas. Go ahead and use a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the plastic clip that holds the supply line to the fuel filter.
Now go ahead and remove the vapor line from the middle hard line. No gas will come out of this line. Now you can disconnect the electrical connector. Now you can go ahead and lower the tank out of the car.
Now that the fuel tank's on the ground, you can go ahead and clean everything up and perform whatever service it is you need to do. Regardless, pick up one of our 5.0 Resto fuel neck filler seals, because these are damaged every time you take them apart. Now, for more fuel system parts and installation videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
I have been ordering items from Latemodel Restoration for many years. I've found them to be exceptionally professional, timely with order processing and shipping correct items ordered. I've never received an incorrect item on an order.