JONATHAN: Hey, everyone. J-Mac with latemodelrestoration.com. Today, we're here with Jeff, and we're going to be talking about weatherstripping for your '79 to '93 Mustang. Now, Jeff, what do we have in front of us here?
JEFF: Sure thing, J-Mac. Now, what we have here is the genuine 5.0 Resto brand door-to-body and trunk hatch weatherstrip kit. Each piece of this kit is available individually and in multiple other kits. Jonathan, how does this weatherstrip compare to the original?
JONATHAN: Man, it's very comparable to the original because it follows the exact same profiles, has the same attaching method, and it's even made out of the same material.
JEFF: All right. Now, the weatherstripping, does it only fit the coupe and hatchback?
JONATHAN: No way, Jeff. This will fit any '79 to '93 Mustang coupe, hatchback, convertible, or t-top. You just have to trim it to fit your application.
JEFF: All right, man. Appreciate the information. Let's go get this on the couple.
JONATHAN: All right, man. Let's do it. Now, to gain access to your door-to-body weatherstrip, you're going to want to start by removing this metal trim that runs in-between your A-pillar trim and your quarter trim panel. It's held in with two retaining clips. Simply pop it free. Once it's loose, you've got a single Phillips head screw at the back of you're A-pillar trim, and a single Phillips head screw at the front of your quarter panel trim.
Now, if you're tabs are broken like these, you really don't have to worry about removing those screws. But if you're tabs are still intact, definitely remove the screws. Your speaker grill is held in place with a single seven millimeter screw and a couple of clips. Remove that screw, pop the clips loose, and the speaker grill comes free. Then remove the lower Phillips head screw, and the Phillips head screw right above it in your A-pillar trim, and you can pull it back just off the weatherstrip. You don't have to fully remove it.
Then you can come down here to your scuff plate. You've got four Phillips head screws holding it on. Remove the scuff plate, then come up to your kick panel. You've got a single push pin at the front, and then there's a push pin on the back. You can pull it free and the kick panel comes loose.
And then you can move back here to your quarter trim panel, remove the plastic cover off the seat belt anchor, and then take a T50 Torx bit and remove the belt anchor bolt. Then grab your Phillips head screwdriver again. You've got a single Phillips head screw up here, and then two more Phillips head screws along the lower edge. Pull that quarter trim panel free of the weatherstrip, and you don't have to fully remove the panel. Once that's done, you can remove the weatherstrip off the pinch weld. I'm going to ahead and finish taking all this stuff loose.
Now, with all of your panels out of the way, you can go ahead and remove your door-to-body weatherstrip. And real quickly, I wanted to point out why it is you typically have to replace the weatherstrip. That's because it's all torn down here at the bottom, causing air leaks. Now, sometimes you'll see that tearing or maybe even some dry rot up at the top, and that also causes water leaks. To remove your weatherstrip, make note of where you're seam starts at, and then you can pick up on the weather stripping, and simply remove it all from the pitch weld, all the way around the doorway.
And with that old weather strip out the way, we can go ahead and start installing our new weatherstrip. Put the leading edge right where you're old seam was at and slide it down over the pinch weld. Then you can grab you a dead blow hammer, or maybe even a rubber mallet, just something that will help you seat that weatherstrip on the pinch weld, and then help you transition the corners. Working your way up the back of the pinch weld until you get up here to the corner, and this corner is typically where everybody has trouble. You end up getting a crease whenever you make this seam.
Now, if you take your time, fully seat the weatherstrip on the pinch weld and stretch it a little bit as you're making the transition through the corner, you won't end up with that crease. Just like that. Once you make that corner, then go ahead and finish pulling it around the pinch weld, and then we'll come back down to the bottom and make the final cut. That way our seam is correct.
Once you get your weatherstrip fully seated on the pinch weld around the door opening, you're going to find yourself back down here at the seam. Now, just go ahead and take your thumb and make a quick little mark, and leaving yourself a little bit extra slack than you think you might need. Then grab you a pair of hose cutters or trim molding cutters to make your cut in the weatherstrip. Once you make your cut in the weatherstrip, you can tuck that seam down into place and fully seat it on the pinch weld.
All right. I've got this all put back together. Now, Jeff is going to show you how to replace your trunk weatherstrip.
JEFF: The removal and installation of the trunk hatch weatherstripping is extremely easy. To start the removal, you simply pull the weatherstripping off the pinch weld. Continue to work the weatherstripping along the pinch weld until you remove it all. Now, our weatherstrip showed some sign of damage and wear. It's this kind of damage that actually leads to water intrusion in your trunk and hatch.
With the old weatherstrip removed, you can toss it aside and begin the installation. Start at the original seam point. Make sure the leading edge of the weatherstripping is facing out, and firmly press it down on the pinch weld. Now, this same piece of weatherstripping will fit your coupe, your hatch, or your convertible. Just like the door-to-body, you do have to trim it to fit. This installation is finished up.
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