These 1987-93 Mustang Door Speaker grilles are located at the lower front of each door. Because of where they are located, they are normally popped loose from the door or scratched up from your feet hitting them.
If your speaker grilles are puling away from your door panel, it is likely that the retaining tabs have broken off. The proper way to remedy the problem is to replace the grille. These install kits include everything you need for a seamless install.
These speaker grilles are molded in smoke gray plastic and must be painted to match any other interior colors.
In this video, Jmac will show you how to replace your Fox Body Mustang Speaker Grilles. The 5.0Resto 1987-93 Mustang Door Speaker grilles are located at the lower front of each door. Because of where they are located, they typically get kicked when you enter and exit your Mustang.
If your Foxbody Mustang speaker grilles are pulling away from your door panel, it is likely that the retaining tabs have broken off. The proper way to remedy the problem is to replace the speaker grille. The LatemodelRestoration.com Mustang Speaker Grill install kits include everything you need for a seamless install.
Finish off your Project Fox Body Mustang interior with a set of 5.0Resto Mustang speaker grilles. With same day free shipping, LatemodelRestoration.com with help you get your Project Foxbody Mustang looking and running good in no time!
J MAC: Hey, everybody. I'm J Mac, and I'm going to show you how to remove the door speaker grill on your '87 and '93 door panel.
Now these are typically broken, just like this one is. A couple of the plastic tabs are broken, and this speaker grill just flops around on the panel. Now to get to it, you do have to remove the door panel. For more information on that, check out our door panel removal video.
Now you want to lay it face down. Grab your pair of diagonal cutters, or something similar. A couple of these tabs are already broken, and you can just clip off the remaining ones.
Then, you can pull the old speaker grill off the panel, and out of the way. Our new speaker grills are 5.0 Resto brand, and they're sold in a pair. They are paint to match. And for more information on painting your interior plastic pieces, check out our interior panel painting video.
Now you can slide your four tabs through the corresponding holes in the door panel. And if your door panel's a little bit warped, you may have to work with it a little bit, to get them through. And especially on these carpeted lower panels, sometimes the carpet gets in the way. All right.
And then, included with that speaker grill pair are eight-- four for each door-- little metal push clips that'll hold that speaker grill to the door panel. And you can just simply slide those over the plastic tabs, and push them down with either a screwdriver or your pliers-- just anything to engage it fully on the back of the panel, and fully engaging that plastic tab.
Work your way around to all four. And some of them might give you a little bit of trouble. There we go. And last one. All right.
And now you have a newly attached, and non-floppy, speaker grill. Now for more interior restoration videos and tech tips, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Follow along in this video as Jmac shows you how to remove your Fox Body Mustang panel panel. Removal of your Mustang Door panel takes little time and is needed to get your Project Fox Body Mustang interior looking great by removing those sagging map pockets and other worn door components.
Removing your Foxbody Mustang Door Panel is a necessity to gain access to window motors, door lock actuators, door speaker grilles, window guide bushings, moisture/vapor barrier, sound deadeners, or replacement map pockets. It also lets you gain access to the door speaker in your Fox Mustang for audio upgrades. If you need help replacing any of parts above be sure to check our line of 5.0Resto parts for your full door restoration project.
SPEAKER: We're going to show you how to remove your door panel on your '87 to '93 Mustang, , because you have to remove this panel to get to just about anything. There are door lock actuators, window motors, you name it. Really simple. You need a Phillips head screwdriver, a nut driver with a 3/8 socket, and a door panel removal tool, available off of our website.
Start by removing the Phillips head screw holding on the mirror hole cover. Then, remove the single Phillips head screw holding on the inner door handle bezel. And the Phillips head screw holding on the base of the speaker grille.
Now you've got two Phillips head screws, one at the front, and one at the back of your door armrest. Going ahead and remove those. Then grab you a small, flat-blade screwdriver, and you can remove your door armrest hole plugs. OK. Then you can grab your 3/8 socket and remove the two bolts that are remaining, holding on the arm rest.
Then you can lift up on the armrest, out, and pull it away from the door, and you've got two electrical connectors that you need to undo. And then you can move the arm rest out of the way. Grab your door panel removal tool and work your way around the perimeter of the door panel.
You've got 12 plastic clips that retain this poor panel to the door. Some of them may not be holding on anymore. Just remove the ones that are. And once all your clips are loose, you can lift up on the door panel, and pull it off of the car.
And now you have full access to everything inside the door that you're going to need to repair, or just to replace your panel.
For more interior restoration tips and parts, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Sprucing up your Mustang interior is not that difficult and you can transform "old" looking plastic interior pieces into fresh, bold new panels over the weekend! LatemodelRestoration.com can help with our full line of Mustang vinyl and lacquer interior spray dyes and spray paints! Choose your color, your prep/cleaner, and get started!
Follow on on the video as Jmac shows you plenty of tips and tricks to getting your Mustang panels, components and pieces painted. This is a great way to paint those junk yard parts to match your Mustangs Interior or just restore old faded parts in your current Mustang.
Hey, everybody. J-Mac here. We're working on our '92 project Coupe. And we found a few pieces in the interior that needed to be replaced while we were in there working, namely the console armrest pad and the console top panel. Now, these two pieces here are the most commonly painted pieces in an '87-'93 Fox Mustang. So we wanted to go ahead and show you how to paint both of them, because one's vinyl, one's plastic.
Now, this will cover our complete range of how to paint interior pieces. We'll start out with the console armrest pad. We'll start out by taking your armrest pad, a gray Scotch-Brite, and bucket of warm water with Dawn dish soap.
You just want to lightly scrub the surface with that water and Dawn dish soap just to kind of get rid of any of the mold release agent or any oils that may be on the surface. Give it a thorough once over top and bottom. That way you can get everything off. Then we'll use compressed air to blow this off.
Now, with everything completely dry, we're going to go ahead and use some of our SEM vinyl prep. Now, this stuff here, it will remove any remaining oils as well as open up the pores of the vinyl to accept the vinyl dye whenever we spray it on. Now, you want to shake it for about a minute to get it fully mixed up. I've already got this pre-shaken. So we're just going to lay on a thin coat, let it dwell for a couple of seconds, and then wipe it off with a microfiber towel or other lint-free towel.
And after just a short period of time, you can go ahead and wipe all this off. You don't want to let it sit for too terribly long, because it will call surface damage. You want to make sure and keep your hands clean during this whole process. That way you're not transplanting new oils back on. It may even be a better idea if you wear latex gloves or something non-powdered. That way there's no chance of contaminating the surface.
Once you've got it all dried down, you can go ahead and grab a can of our 5.0Resto interior vinyl dye. This comes in an SEM can loaded with PPG pigment, which is the same stuff that Ford used straight from the factory. That way it's going to be the most perfect match to your interior.
Again, you're going to want to shake this can up for about a minute. I've already got this can pre-shaken. And we're going to lay down several thin coats. That way we can get a perfect coverage on the underside and top-side of this pad.
We're going to start out on the bottom side. Let that tack. You're going to want to allow about three to five minutes in between coats for tack time. And then, after your last coat, third or fourth coat, you'll want to go ahead and let that tack for about 30 minutes, 45 minutes before you touch it or handle it in any way.
All right, we're on our last coat here. You want to make sure and get nice, even coverage, really light coats. This is coat number four for us. You want to shake your can in between coats before you get started. And you'll want to hold it about six to eight inches away from your surface.
Like I said, let everything dry about three to five minutes between coats. And then after your last coat, you're going to want to let it sit for about 25, 30 minutes. Go have yourself a cold beverage. Let it wait before you try to handle it.
Now that we're done with our console armrest pad, we can move on to our console top panel. Now, this thing here is plastic. It requires a little bit different prep method. Again, you're going to want to start out with your Dawn dish soap in the warm water with a gray Scotch-Brite pad and just slightly abrade the surface to remove any mold release agents or oils that are on it.
Like I said, we've already taped up the rubber gaskets on there. And you'll want to completely cover all the areas on here that are going to be taking paint. That way it sticks to everything.
You don't have to spend just a whole lot of time on it. Dawn does a really good job of breaking down grease and oil. And these gray Scotch-Brites are not very abrasive but just enough to give the surface a little bit of tack for the paint to stick to. Don't be afraid to go over it again if you feel like it's still got a little bit of sheen to it or you feel like maybe you just want it to be a little bit cleaner. It's not going to hurt anything to go over it two or three times.
Now, these console top panels are available in both power mirror versions and non-power mirror versions. This one here is a power mirror version, being our Coupe is equipped with power door mirrors. The non-power version just doesn't have that square cut-out there. All right, now we're going to use the compressed air again to drive this thing off.
All right, I missed a little bit. Now, with all the water out of the way, we're going to go ahead and take some denatured alcohol and lint free towel to go ahead and completely wipe down the surface to remove any remaining oils. Now, It doesn't take a whole lot of alcohol here, just enough to wet your towel a little bit. Go ahead and distribute that evenly. Let me just wipe around the entire panel.
And you're just going to let this air dry as you go. No need to dry it off. That alcohol evaporates pretty quickly. If you notice your towel getting soiled at all, go ahead and move to a clean section.
You're going to want to do all this in a well-ventilated area. That way, you don't get a little lightheaded, get a little high while you're spraying the paint. Even though, some people it may be your thing, but pretty much you want to keep your head about you while you're doing all this stuff.
Now with everything completely wiped down, we can go ahead. Everything appears to be dry. We can grab our 5.0Resto interior lacquer dye. This is what you would use for the hard plastics or metals within your car, anything that's not very easily flexible like vinyl or any type of plastic.
Go ahead and shake everything up real well, again, about a minute for the can. I already have this pre-shaken. So we can go ahead and lay down about three to four thin coats over the whole deal, again, three to five minutes to allow the coats to tack in between the next coat. And then once you lay down your final coat, 20 to 30 minutes before you handle it. And then you can go ahead and install everything into your car.
Carefully remove your tape. And you're done with your paint job. Now, we have completely transformed this console top panel and the armrest pad from the original gray color to the correct titanium gray for our '92 Coupe. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
I am rebuilding the entire doors and saw the YouTube video about the speaker grills. Wow after getting some nice internet classified door panels, I noticed the speaker grills were broken and needed replacement too. A few clips with cutters and their off, a few minutes of clips and the panel is on. Unfortunately I did not receive the bottom screws as the part shows on the web page. Beautiful repair though.
Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!
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frank t. on
I just bought these and put them on. Looks a lot better
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50resto is your trusted source for 1979-93 Mustang Foxbody restoration products. Buy 50resto products from Latemodel Restoration Supply and receive the best value, quality and industry-leading customer service. Whether you need Fox Body Mustang weatherstrip, headlights, taillights, seals, body panels, hardware, door handles, trim parts, carpeting or upholstery, 50resto is the brand you should demand.
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SVE and 50resto products are warranted to be free from defects in materials or workmanship for one year from date of purchase. What does this warranty cover? YOU! That’s right, whether you ordered a SVE brand Mach I grille delete or a 50resto brand light kit, if your product fails within a year of your purchase we got your back! Some conditions will apply.
Had a problem with an order/quality issue. I put up a review stating so, and was contacted by Mike Linley, who was soooo nice and sooo professional, I almost felt bad about my review !! I felt the review was necessary because of bad welds/paint. Mike explained that they had a particular issue with that supplier and they had changed suppliers because of it. I must have mistakenly got an old set. (upper/lower Control arms-Foxbody). Mike asked a few questions, and was Sending me an updated replacement set while we were on the phone.!!! This is what I wish all Vendors would do; no arguments, no blame, no B.S. !! This is why LateModel stands out as an upstanding company, and backs up their products with AWESOME Customer service. Very rare in this day and age, and because of this I will be a customer for life, and will spread the good word ! Great to know some honest and Classy companies still operate in the good ol' USA. Thanks LateModel, and Thanks Mike !!! I look forward to seeing the New LCA'S and will review them too...You guys did the right thing and should and I'm overly impressed!
This is my '93 AF Thunderbird tribute car, just put in TMI Mach I interior, hurst shifter. it has a 302 with minor modifications; BBK chrome shorty headers, BBK cold air, red underdrive pullies, blue ...