Video: Mustang 5 Lug Conversion Installation
Published on 2013-08-30
Want to take advantage of more wheel options for your 79-93 Mustang? Then you need to pick up a 5 lug conversion kit from LatemodelRestoration.com. We are the Fox Mustang experts and we have taken guess work out of 5 lug swaps. Our complete kit features everything you need to start running the more popular 5 lug aftermarket and factory wheels on your Stang! Best of all, these aren't junkyard parts. All parts are brand new!
Follow along in the video as we show you how to install our 4 to 5 lug conversion kit. Our complete Fox Body 5 Lug Swap Kits are available in 28 spline and 31 spline axle versions. We also have front and rear conversions as well.
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There are more ways to convert your 87-93 Fox Body Mustang to 5 lug than you can count on one hand. One of the many ways is this Fox style five lug conversion kit from LatemodelRestoration.com. It uses Fox style 5 lug front brake rotors Fox length rear axles with 5 lug brake drums that are compatible with your stock rear drum brake setup. It also includes the needed axle studs, front wheel bearings, grease seals, gear oil, just about everything you need so you can throw it on your car. We’re going to show you step-by-step what's required to install this on your 87-93 Mustang.
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To start out our 5 lug swap, support your car in the air and remove all the wheels. We'll begin with the front by removing the brake caliber. Pop off the dust cap. Remove the cotter pin, nut retainer, nut spacer washer and outer wheel bearing. You can then slide your old rotor of the spindle. Go ahead and clean up all the old grease off the spindle as well as of the nut, spacer washer out of the grease cap and the retainer. Grab your new rotor.
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Wipe down there bearing races with brake cleaner. Pack the area in between the bearing races with grease and smear some grease on the bearing races. Pack your wheel bearings with your choice a wheel bearing grease. We decided to use Royal Purple. Install you’re inside wheel bearing followed by the new grease seal. Smear some grease on the spindle. Slide the rotor into place. Slide in your outer wheel bearing, followed by the spacer washer and nut. Tighten and loosen the retaining nut several times while rotating the rotor to fully see the bearings.
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Once you feel the bearings are fully seated. Tighten the nut and loosen it by one flat. Rotate the nut retainer around until it you can clearly see the cotter pin hole. Install your cotter pin. Pack some new grease inside the bearing dust cap. Install the cap into the brake rotor. Slide you caliber back into place and bolt it down. Repeat this for the other side. Moving on to the rear. Remove the 10 cover bolts. You will want to grab you an oil drain pan and remove the rear cover.
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Slide your drums off. Rotate your axle around to where you can access the cross pin retaining bolt. Remove the cross pin retaining bolt. Remove the cross pin. Slide one axle inward and remove the c clip. Do this for the other side. Remove both rear axles. Grab your new axles and the included 10 wheel studs. There are several different ways to install these wheel studs. The tried and true method is to hammer them into place. When using the stock wheel studs it doesn't take a whole lot of effort.
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If you're using aftermarket style ARP long wheel studs, you will need to enlarge the holes on the axle flange and use a hydraulic press. Slide your new axles in the housing being careful not to damage the outer oil seal. Slide 1 axle all the way inward. Engage the c clip and push it back out till it locks in place. Do this for the other axle. Reinstall your cross pin and the cross pin retaining bolt.
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Thoroughly clean the face of the axle housing along with the differential cover. We always recommend using one of our reusable differential gaskets. Now we don't have any RTV silicone mess. Reinstall the rear differential cover. Tightening down all 10 bolts. Remove the fill plug from the front axle housing. Start filling the housing with oil. On the second bottle I normally put in about half the bottle. Then add the bottle of Ford Racing friction modifier to the remaining half bottle of oil. Finish filling the axle. Apply some thread sealer to the fill plug and reinstall the fill plug. Slide your new brake drums into place.
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Install your new wheels and lower the car onto the ground. Of course the perfect finishing touch to any 4 to 5 lug conversion is a new set a 5 lug wheels. We chose to go with a set of our chrome SVE Drag Wheels. Man do they look MEAN! Check out LatemodelRestoration.com to pick up your five lug conversion kit and to see the full list of wheel fitments for this particular kit.