New Replacement Ash Tray Door And Ash Tray Repair Kit
Ashtray door is made in the USA from original Ford tooling
What's in the Box
(1) Ash Tray Door
(1) Ash Tray Repair Kit
(1) Ash Tray Spring
Repair Your Broken Ash Tray
Is your 1979-1993 Mustang ash tray broken? Pick up a Mustang ash tray repair kit to easily fix this common problem. The tray arms are the most commonly broken part on the console and this kit fixes just that! Don't spend time and money replacing the whole console, pick up this kit and get it fixed quickly and easily.
Top Quality Parts
To get your center console looking as new as factory, this kit features a Ford original tooling door. This door features the same texture as OEM ash trays and is painted smoke gray to match your interior. The ash tray spring in this kit directly replaces a worn out or missing spring to restore the ash tray functions. The hardware that comes with these components fixes the common problem of broken parts inside your console.
- Fits 1987-1993 Mustangs
* * * NOTE: Correct Color for 87-92 Mustang, Can be used in 1993 Mustang if Painted to match.* * *
Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to remove a Mustang center console. To gain access to certain parts on your Fox Mustang, you will need to remove your center console. Some of the most common reasons to remove your center console are to replace old worn out components such as Ash Tray Doors, Lower Shift Boots or even old dirty carpet. The removal process is extremely easy and can be done in less than 30 minutes. Check out some of these common restoration parts used while removing your center console.
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JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. Jmac here with more interior tech. Today we're going to be showing you how to remove your center console. Now removing your center console is necessary to gain access to your shifter or even just your lower shifter boot.
Now it is a little involved, so follow along and we'll show you step by step what needs to be done. We're going to start by removing your center console armrest. Go ahead and pop off your oval plug and grab you a 5/16 or 8-millimeter socket, and you can remove the two bolts on each side that hold the armrest onto the console.
Repeat that process for the other side. I already have ours done. So you can just pick straight up on the armrest and it'll come free of the console.
You can set it out of the way, and we'll move up here to the shifter handle. Just pop up your shifter boot and bezel. You can just pick it up. And then remove the two bolts that hold onto your shifter handle.
Now every shifter's going to have a different piece of hardware holding it on, so you're going to use anywhere from a 10-millimeter to a 13-millimeter socket, or even an Allen-head socket for some aftermarket shifters. You just remove those two bolts to get that handle out of the way.
Then go ahead and remove your AC trim bezel. That just snaps out of place really easily. And grab you a set of radio removal tools. If you still have the stock radio, we have these available on our website. If you've got an aftermarket radio in your car, you have four screws holding in the adapter plate, so you can pull those four screws out to gain access to the back of the radio.
Engage those into place. Pull out and straight back on the radio. And unplug your antenna and then your two electrical connectors from the back. Set that out of the way.
Now we can move on over here to the driver's side. You're going after remove your lower column cover. It's held on by two Phillips' head screws. You've got one over here by the key release button. Get it out of the way. And then one over here, right underneath the lock cylinder. And then your lower column cover comes free. Make sure and keep your screws with it, because you don't want to be hunting around for screws later.
Now your plastic cover, trim cover, for the bottom of the dash, it's held on at the bottom with three screws, and it's got two push clips up here. This car is already missing one screw. It's 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. Go ahead and pull those out of the way.
And grab hold of the panel and pull straight back to disengage the clips. You can set it out of the way. Then you've got this metal trim piece. It's held on, again, with two bolts. It's got either 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. We want to pull those out of the way. Then that metal plate comes free.
Now you want to drop your glove box, open it up, and then push in on both sides, and then it'll completely fall down. Because you have two Phillips-head screws on this side and two Phillips-head screws on this side that you need to remove.
Now you can go ahead and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the front of the console top panel. Then the two Phillips-head screws at the back of the console top panel. Pull up on your E-brake handle and you can take your console top panel up and off.
Then disconnect your two electrical connections-- one for the cigarette lighter and then the other one for the power mirror switch, if your car's equipped. Then your console top panel is free. Now you have two more Phillips-head screws at the back of the console that need to come out.
And now your console is free. Lower your E-brake handle back down, pick up on the back of the console, and pull straight back. Lift up, and you've got an electrical connector over here for your trunk release. It simply pops out of place, and your console is free from the car.
Now to reinstall your console, you would just simply reverse these removal steps. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Product: 1987-93 Mustang Ash Tray Door And Repair Kit Brand: 5.0 Resto Fits: Mustang LX, GT, Coupe, Hatch and Convertible Year Models: 1987 (87) 1988 (88) 1989 (89) 1990 (90) 1991 (91) 1992 (92) 1993 (93) LRS Part #: LRS-04786
Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to repair your broken Mustang ash tray lid. If you've been around Fox Body Mustangs long enough you've noticed that 2 out of 3 have broken ash tray doors. Once they are broken they usually are thrown away. LRS has you covered with the 5.0Resto Ash Tray Door and Repair Kits. One simple kit for all your ash tray door needs! Kit includes everything you need to correctly repair your broken or non closing ash tray lid. Don't waste time buying parts separately. Purchase this kit and SAVE!
* * * Available in Black, Red and Smoke Gray. Ashtray door will need to be painted to match certain year models * * *
JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. J-Mac with latemodelrestoration.com. Today, we're going to be working with the 5.0 Resto ashtray repair kit. Now, this ashtray repair kit includes everything you need to fix all of the common broken problems with an '87 to '93 top panel and ashtray door. Two screws, a couple of clip nuts, a new ashtray door spring, and then a new ashtray door spring mount.
Now, this top panel that I have here is very representative of what you may have in your car. Ashtray door is flopping around because the spring is long gone, one of the mounting tabs is broken, and actually, on the underside here, the spring tab is broken, which is probably the most common failure.
Now, to start off, you want to remove your ashtray. Then you can flip it over and remove your ashtray door. Now, if both tabs are still intact, you'd want to squeeze and release this outer one first and then squeeze and release this inner one, and then you can pull the door free of the panel.
Now you want to remove your cigarette lighter element out of the way. You can stick your thumb on the inside and twist, and that'll loosen it up. That way you can unscrew it. You can go ahead and get that receptacle free of the panel.
OK, now the first thing we're going to repair is going to be the door. This tab right here is typically what breaks off on the door. This is a metal door-- not a very common deal to have this tab broken, but it does happen. In the plastic doors, it's much more common to have that tab broken.
To get all the tools you'll want to collect, it's going to be a power drill with an 1/8 inch drill bit, a tape measure, a marker or pen of some sort, a of diagonal cutters or a Dremel tool-- just anything that'll cut through the thin plastic-- a tube of Super Glue, a Phillips-head screwdriver, and a center punch or a sharp awl.
Now, place your ashtray door down on the bottom. Grab your power drill with the 1/8 inch drill bit. Center yourself up where that tab was and go ahead and drill that out. Now, with that clear, you can check the fitment of the screw. It slides right through, we're good.
So we can go ahead and, from the inside out, put the screw through and then put on one of the clip nuts. And then tighten that down because, essentially, this screw just became your new stud-- much stronger, It's not going to break.
Now that we're done with the door, we can move on to this tab here on the console top panel. This one here is still intact, but it is showing signs of stress, so it's not long for this world. I'm going to use my diagonal cutters to clip it back a little bit. This is where you can use your Dremel tool as well. And then I'm going to take my center punch and just mark the center. That way, the drill bit has a good area to latch into.
And you can use the awl for that purpose as well. Another way to do this, instead of drilling, is to take that sharp awl, something with a long tip. You can heat it up until it's almost red and just stick that awl straight through. Now, don't go too far, obviously, but that is a little bit easier way to do it.
Take your drill. All right. Clean off any of that plastic flash, then you can grab your other screw, make sure it's going to go through-- and it does just fine.
Flip your panel back over, put the screw in from the inside out, and then you can take your other clip nut and slide it on the end of the screw. Kind of get it started into place, and then you can take your Phillips-head screwdriver and go through the cigarette lighter opening and tighten that down. And essentially, that screw, just like on the ashtray door, this just became your new stud. All right.
Now we're going to repair the spring perch here. Now, these typically break out. Some people will try and drill a hole a little bit further down. That hardly ever works, because it puts the spring in the wrong position and it pops out anyway. Now, on the '90 to '93 panels, it has this reinforcement ridge from the factory. You just want to make you a little line straight across the top, or as straight as you possibly can. And that's where you're going to cut, just right to the top of that ledge.
Now, if you've got an '87 to an early '90 car, that ridge doesn't exist. So you want to take your tape measure and you can measure up an inch from the flat surface here. Make your mark, and that'll be at the same height. That way your new reinforcement piece goes on in the same spot.
Now, I'll take my diagonal cutters here and trim off that broken piece. OK, now you'll take your Krazy Glue or Super Glue, throw you a bead on the inside of your new spring perch, and then a little bead on the top. Make sure you don't glue your fingers together. And slide that new reinforcement on there, make sure it's fully engaged, and let that cure for just a second. I'm using very fast curing glue, so it's not going to take very long.
Now we can go ahead and put the door back on. You can go ahead and slide it through. And you'll want to engage your first tab out here, and then the second tab.
Now, with these metal doors, it takes a little bit more effort to do this, but with the plastic doors, it really doesn't take much effort at all. Make sure that that inner tab is fully engaged. All right. It's going to be a little bit tighter moving than your original one was, but that's OK. It'll take a little bit of load off that spring keeping it closed.
Now for the spring, you'll want to take-- and it has an L-shape. That's going to go through your spring perch here. And then you'll want the pigtail facing back and you'll fold it forward and engage it in the little hole in the ashtray door. Probably have to fold it in a little bit, and there you go.
Now we have a fully functioning ashtray door again. Now for more tech tips and interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
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This whole year (2013) i've ordered numerous parts. from the front end (core support, head lights, radiator) to a all new rear end ( gears, axles, control arms) and everything in between. very pleased with Latemodel restoration's fast, free shipping and prices. never had any issues with orders i just point,click, and two days later its at my doorstep. you can bet when it warms up, and i get some seat time, ill be back for parts reviews. GREAT JOB LMR! keep up the good work.