If you've been around Mustang Fox Bodies long enough you've noticed that 2 out of three have broken ash tray lids. Once they get broken they usually are thrown away. LatemodelRestoration.com has you covered carrying these Replacement ashtray lids by 5.0Resto that attach to the console top panel. Get yours today and get your console looking right!
Mustang Ash Tray Lid Repair Kit Install
Mustang Ash Tray Lid Repair Kit Install
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Published on 2013-03-21 Product: 1987-93 Mustang Ash Tray Door And Repair Kit Brand: 5.0 Resto Fits: Mustang LX, GT, Coupe, Hatch and Convertible Year Models: 1987 (87) 1988 (88) 1989 (89) 1990 (90) 1991 (91) 1992 (92) 1993 (93) LRS Part #: LRS-04786
Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to repair your broken Mustang ash tray lid. If you've been around Fox Body Mustangs long enough you've noticed that 2 out of 3 have broken ash tray doors. Once they are broken they usually are thrown away. LRS has you covered with the 5.0Resto Ash Tray Door and Repair Kits. One simple kit for all your ash tray door needs! Kit includes everything you need to correctly repair your broken or non closing ash tray lid. Don't waste time buying parts separately. Purchase this kit and SAVE!
* * * Available in Black, Red and Smoke Gray. Ashtray door will need to be painted to match certain year models * * *
JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. J-Mac with latemodelrestoration.com. Today, we're going to be working with the 5.0 Resto ashtray repair kit. Now, this ashtray repair kit includes everything you need to fix all of the common broken problems with an '87 to '93 top panel and ashtray door. Two screws, a couple of clip nuts, a new ashtray door spring, and then a new ashtray door spring mount.
Now, this top panel that I have here is very representative of what you may have in your car. Ashtray door is flopping around because the spring is long gone, one of the mounting tabs is broken, and actually, on the underside here, the spring tab is broken, which is probably the most common failure.
Now, to start off, you want to remove your ashtray. Then you can flip it over and remove your ashtray door. Now, if both tabs are still intact, you'd want to squeeze and release this outer one first and then squeeze and release this inner one, and then you can pull the door free of the panel.
Now you want to remove your cigarette lighter element out of the way. You can stick your thumb on the inside and twist, and that'll loosen it up. That way you can unscrew it. You can go ahead and get that receptacle free of the panel.
OK, now the first thing we're going to repair is going to be the door. This tab right here is typically what breaks off on the door. This is a metal door-- not a very common deal to have this tab broken, but it does happen. In the plastic doors, it's much more common to have that tab broken.
To get all the tools you'll want to collect, it's going to be a power drill with an 1/8 inch drill bit, a tape measure, a marker or pen of some sort, a of diagonal cutters or a Dremel tool-- just anything that'll cut through the thin plastic-- a tube of Super Glue, a Phillips-head screwdriver, and a center punch or a sharp awl.
Now, place your ashtray door down on the bottom. Grab your power drill with the 1/8 inch drill bit. Center yourself up where that tab was and go ahead and drill that out. Now, with that clear, you can check the fitment of the screw. It slides right through, we're good.
So we can go ahead and, from the inside out, put the screw through and then put on one of the clip nuts. And then tighten that down because, essentially, this screw just became your new stud-- much stronger, It's not going to break.
Now that we're done with the door, we can move on to this tab here on the console top panel. This one here is still intact, but it is showing signs of stress, so it's not long for this world. I'm going to use my diagonal cutters to clip it back a little bit. This is where you can use your Dremel tool as well. And then I'm going to take my center punch and just mark the center. That way, the drill bit has a good area to latch into.
And you can use the awl for that purpose as well. Another way to do this, instead of drilling, is to take that sharp awl, something with a long tip. You can heat it up until it's almost red and just stick that awl straight through. Now, don't go too far, obviously, but that is a little bit easier way to do it.
Take your drill. All right. Clean off any of that plastic flash, then you can grab your other screw, make sure it's going to go through-- and it does just fine.
Flip your panel back over, put the screw in from the inside out, and then you can take your other clip nut and slide it on the end of the screw. Kind of get it started into place, and then you can take your Phillips-head screwdriver and go through the cigarette lighter opening and tighten that down. And essentially, that screw, just like on the ashtray door, this just became your new stud. All right.
Now we're going to repair the spring perch here. Now, these typically break out. Some people will try and drill a hole a little bit further down. That hardly ever works, because it puts the spring in the wrong position and it pops out anyway. Now, on the '90 to '93 panels, it has this reinforcement ridge from the factory. You just want to make you a little line straight across the top, or as straight as you possibly can. And that's where you're going to cut, just right to the top of that ledge.
Now, if you've got an '87 to an early '90 car, that ridge doesn't exist. So you want to take your tape measure and you can measure up an inch from the flat surface here. Make your mark, and that'll be at the same height. That way your new reinforcement piece goes on in the same spot.
Now, I'll take my diagonal cutters here and trim off that broken piece. OK, now you'll take your Krazy Glue or Super Glue, throw you a bead on the inside of your new spring perch, and then a little bead on the top. Make sure you don't glue your fingers together. And slide that new reinforcement on there, make sure it's fully engaged, and let that cure for just a second. I'm using very fast curing glue, so it's not going to take very long.
Now we can go ahead and put the door back on. You can go ahead and slide it through. And you'll want to engage your first tab out here, and then the second tab.
Now, with these metal doors, it takes a little bit more effort to do this, but with the plastic doors, it really doesn't take much effort at all. Make sure that that inner tab is fully engaged. All right. It's going to be a little bit tighter moving than your original one was, but that's OK. It'll take a little bit of load off that spring keeping it closed.
Now for the spring, you'll want to take-- and it has an L-shape. That's going to go through your spring perch here. And then you'll want the pigtail facing back and you'll fold it forward and engage it in the little hole in the ashtray door. Probably have to fold it in a little bit, and there you go.
Now we have a fully functioning ashtray door again. Now for more tech tips and interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
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