Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to remove a Mustang center console. To gain access to certain parts on your Fox Mustang, you will need to remove your center console. Some of the most common reasons to remove your center console are to replace old worn out components such as Ash Tray Doors, Lower Shift Boots or even old dirty carpet. The removal process is extremely easy and can be done in less than 30 minutes. Check out some of these common restoration parts used while removing your center console.
Use only 5.0Resto Mustang parts on your Project Fox Body Mustang!!! 50Resto parts are the perfect addition to your American muscle Mustang Project!
JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. Jmac here with more interior tech. Today we're going to be showing you how to remove your center console. Now removing your center console is necessary to gain access to your shifter or even just your lower shifter boot.
Now it is a little involved, so follow along and we'll show you step by step what needs to be done. We're going to start by removing your center console armrest. Go ahead and pop off your oval plug and grab you a 5/16 or 8-millimeter socket, and you can remove the two bolts on each side that hold the armrest onto the console.
Repeat that process for the other side. I already have ours done. So you can just pick straight up on the armrest and it'll come free of the console.
You can set it out of the way, and we'll move up here to the shifter handle. Just pop up your shifter boot and bezel. You can just pick it up. And then remove the two bolts that hold onto your shifter handle.
Now every shifter's going to have a different piece of hardware holding it on, so you're going to use anywhere from a 10-millimeter to a 13-millimeter socket, or even an Allen-head socket for some aftermarket shifters. You just remove those two bolts to get that handle out of the way.
Then go ahead and remove your AC trim bezel. That just snaps out of place really easily. And grab you a set of radio removal tools. If you still have the stock radio, we have these available on our website. If you've got an aftermarket radio in your car, you have four screws holding in the adapter plate, so you can pull those four screws out to gain access to the back of the radio.
Engage those into place. Pull out and straight back on the radio. And unplug your antenna and then your two electrical connectors from the back. Set that out of the way.
Now we can move on over here to the driver's side. You're going after remove your lower column cover. It's held on by two Phillips' head screws. You've got one over here by the key release button. Get it out of the way. And then one over here, right underneath the lock cylinder. And then your lower column cover comes free. Make sure and keep your screws with it, because you don't want to be hunting around for screws later.
Now your plastic cover, trim cover, for the bottom of the dash, it's held on at the bottom with three screws, and it's got two push clips up here. This car is already missing one screw. It's 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. Go ahead and pull those out of the way.
And grab hold of the panel and pull straight back to disengage the clips. You can set it out of the way. Then you've got this metal trim piece. It's held on, again, with two bolts. It's got either 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. We want to pull those out of the way. Then that metal plate comes free.
Now you want to drop your glove box, open it up, and then push in on both sides, and then it'll completely fall down. Because you have two Phillips-head screws on this side and two Phillips-head screws on this side that you need to remove.
Now you can go ahead and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the front of the console top panel. Then the two Phillips-head screws at the back of the console top panel. Pull up on your E-brake handle and you can take your console top panel up and off.
Then disconnect your two electrical connections-- one for the cigarette lighter and then the other one for the power mirror switch, if your car's equipped. Then your console top panel is free. Now you have two more Phillips-head screws at the back of the console that need to come out.
And now your console is free. Lower your E-brake handle back down, pick up on the back of the console, and pull straight back. Lift up, and you've got an electrical connector over here for your trunk release. It simply pops out of place, and your console is free from the car.
Now to reinstall your console, you would just simply reverse these removal steps. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Sprucing up your Mustang interior is not that difficult and you can transform "old" looking plastic interior pieces into fresh, bold new panels over the weekend! LatemodelRestoration.com can help with our full line of Mustang vinyl and lacquer interior spray dyes and spray paints! Choose your color, your prep/cleaner, and get started!
Follow on on the video as Jmac shows you plenty of tips and tricks to getting your Mustang panels, components and pieces painted. This is a great way to paint those junk yard parts to match your Mustangs Interior or just restore old faded parts in your current Mustang.
Hey, everybody. J-Mac here. We're working on our '92 project Coupe. And we found a few pieces in the interior that needed to be replaced while we were in there working, namely the console armrest pad and the console top panel. Now, these two pieces here are the most commonly painted pieces in an '87-'93 Fox Mustang. So we wanted to go ahead and show you how to paint both of them, because one's vinyl, one's plastic.
Now, this will cover our complete range of how to paint interior pieces. We'll start out with the console armrest pad. We'll start out by taking your armrest pad, a gray Scotch-Brite, and bucket of warm water with Dawn dish soap.
You just want to lightly scrub the surface with that water and Dawn dish soap just to kind of get rid of any of the mold release agent or any oils that may be on the surface. Give it a thorough once over top and bottom. That way you can get everything off. Then we'll use compressed air to blow this off.
Now, with everything completely dry, we're going to go ahead and use some of our SEM vinyl prep. Now, this stuff here, it will remove any remaining oils as well as open up the pores of the vinyl to accept the vinyl dye whenever we spray it on. Now, you want to shake it for about a minute to get it fully mixed up. I've already got this pre-shaken. So we're just going to lay on a thin coat, let it dwell for a couple of seconds, and then wipe it off with a microfiber towel or other lint-free towel.
And after just a short period of time, you can go ahead and wipe all this off. You don't want to let it sit for too terribly long, because it will call surface damage. You want to make sure and keep your hands clean during this whole process. That way you're not transplanting new oils back on. It may even be a better idea if you wear latex gloves or something non-powdered. That way there's no chance of contaminating the surface.
Once you've got it all dried down, you can go ahead and grab a can of our 5.0Resto interior vinyl dye. This comes in an SEM can loaded with PPG pigment, which is the same stuff that Ford used straight from the factory. That way it's going to be the most perfect match to your interior.
Again, you're going to want to shake this can up for about a minute. I've already got this can pre-shaken. And we're going to lay down several thin coats. That way we can get a perfect coverage on the underside and top-side of this pad.
We're going to start out on the bottom side. Let that tack. You're going to want to allow about three to five minutes in between coats for tack time. And then, after your last coat, third or fourth coat, you'll want to go ahead and let that tack for about 30 minutes, 45 minutes before you touch it or handle it in any way.
All right, we're on our last coat here. You want to make sure and get nice, even coverage, really light coats. This is coat number four for us. You want to shake your can in between coats before you get started. And you'll want to hold it about six to eight inches away from your surface.
Like I said, let everything dry about three to five minutes between coats. And then after your last coat, you're going to want to let it sit for about 25, 30 minutes. Go have yourself a cold beverage. Let it wait before you try to handle it.
Now that we're done with our console armrest pad, we can move on to our console top panel. Now, this thing here is plastic. It requires a little bit different prep method. Again, you're going to want to start out with your Dawn dish soap in the warm water with a gray Scotch-Brite pad and just slightly abrade the surface to remove any mold release agents or oils that are on it.
Like I said, we've already taped up the rubber gaskets on there. And you'll want to completely cover all the areas on here that are going to be taking paint. That way it sticks to everything.
You don't have to spend just a whole lot of time on it. Dawn does a really good job of breaking down grease and oil. And these gray Scotch-Brites are not very abrasive but just enough to give the surface a little bit of tack for the paint to stick to. Don't be afraid to go over it again if you feel like it's still got a little bit of sheen to it or you feel like maybe you just want it to be a little bit cleaner. It's not going to hurt anything to go over it two or three times.
Now, these console top panels are available in both power mirror versions and non-power mirror versions. This one here is a power mirror version, being our Coupe is equipped with power door mirrors. The non-power version just doesn't have that square cut-out there. All right, now we're going to use the compressed air again to drive this thing off.
All right, I missed a little bit. Now, with all the water out of the way, we're going to go ahead and take some denatured alcohol and lint free towel to go ahead and completely wipe down the surface to remove any remaining oils. Now, It doesn't take a whole lot of alcohol here, just enough to wet your towel a little bit. Go ahead and distribute that evenly. Let me just wipe around the entire panel.
And you're just going to let this air dry as you go. No need to dry it off. That alcohol evaporates pretty quickly. If you notice your towel getting soiled at all, go ahead and move to a clean section.
You're going to want to do all this in a well-ventilated area. That way, you don't get a little lightheaded, get a little high while you're spraying the paint. Even though, some people it may be your thing, but pretty much you want to keep your head about you while you're doing all this stuff.
Now with everything completely wiped down, we can go ahead. Everything appears to be dry. We can grab our 5.0Resto interior lacquer dye. This is what you would use for the hard plastics or metals within your car, anything that's not very easily flexible like vinyl or any type of plastic.
Go ahead and shake everything up real well, again, about a minute for the can. I already have this pre-shaken. So we can go ahead and lay down about three to four thin coats over the whole deal, again, three to five minutes to allow the coats to tack in between the next coat. And then once you lay down your final coat, 20 to 30 minutes before you handle it. And then you can go ahead and install everything into your car.
Carefully remove your tape. And you're done with your paint job. Now, we have completely transformed this console top panel and the armrest pad from the original gray color to the correct titanium gray for our '92 Coupe. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Product: 1987-93 Mustang Console Armrest Delete Brand: 5.0 Resto Fits: Mustang LX, GT, Coupe, Hatch and Convertible Year Models: 1987 (87) 1988 (88) 1989 (89) 1990 (90) 1991 (91) 1992 (92) 1993 (93) LRS Part #: Gray = LRS-04744B Black = LRS-04744A
Follow along as Jmac shows you how to install a Mustang console arm rest delete. Some 87-93 Mustangs came from the factory with this delete panel instead of the large console arm rest between the seats. This 5.0Resto console arm rest delete panel is a perfect way to replace your broken factory arm rest and shed a few pounds off your car in the process.
Use only 5.0Resto Mustang parts on your Project Fox Body Mustang!!! 50Resto parts are the perfect addition to your American muscle Mustang Project!
* * * NOTE: Molded in Black & Smoke Gray. Must be painted to match other colors.* * *
Features & Benefits Direct Replacement for OEM Console Arm Rest Correct Grain Pattern Accepts OEM Rear Ash Tray Easy Installation
JMAC: Hey, everybody. Jmac with Latemodelrestoration.com. And today, we're going to show you how to put on a console armrest delete. Very simple to do.
Start by removing the oval access plug on the side of the console. Simply pries out of place. Then grab you a nut driver with a 5/16 ornate millimeter socket, and remove the bolts that are holding on the arm rest of the console.
Now go ahead and repeat that process for the other side. Already have ours done. Grab hold of your arm rest, and just pick it up off the console. And then roll it forward onto its top. Grab you a small flat blade screwdriver and remove the two clips at the front edge. You need to transfer those over to your new armrest delete.
It may take a little patience, because they have little tabs that dig into the plastic. With those out, move onto your ashtray. It has four little plastic tabs. You just push them in toward the center of the ashtray, and it pops free.
Now if your ashtray's broken or missing, we do have brand new replacements available. Now, you can move this heavy, clunky console armrest out of the way and grab your new light sleek armrest delete panel.
Take your two clips and put them on the front edge. And then grab your ashtray and slide it into place, and snap it. Then the two tabs on the back, you'll line that up with the back of your console. And then engage your front clips.
Grab your oval plug, snap it into place, and you're done. Now you can probably tell that this armrest delete does not match our console. But don't worry. We have you covered with a complete line of Interior trim dyes to match your interior perfectly.
Now for more information on painting interior panels, as well as other interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
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SVE and 50resto products are warranted to be free from defects in materials or workmanship for one year from date of purchase. What does this warranty cover? YOU! That’s right, whether you ordered a SVE brand Mach I grille delete or a 50resto brand light kit, if your product fails within a year of your purchase we got your back! Some conditions will apply.
Testimonial: Fast, free shipping... need i say more?
This whole year (2013) i've ordered numerous parts. from the front end (core support, head lights, radiator) to a all new rear end ( gears, axles, control arms) and everything in between. very pleased with Latemodel restoration's fast, free shipping and prices. never had any issues with orders i just point,click, and two days later its at my doorstep. you can bet when it warms up, and i get some seat time, ill be back for parts reviews. GREAT JOB LMR! keep up the good work.
This is my '93 AF Thunderbird tribute car, just put in TMI Mach I interior, hurst shifter. it has a 302 with minor modifications; BBK chrome shorty headers, BBK cold air, red underdrive pullies, blue ...