Accepts Stock Knob Or 12mm x 1.75 Thread Shift Knobs
What's in the Box
(1) Billet Plus Shifter Assembly
All Needed Hardware
Hurst Billet/Plus Shifters incorporate a high ratio pivot mechanism for reduced shifter throw and are sturdily constructed for a more positive precise feel when shifting. Self centering alignment improves 2nd to 3rd up-shift gear changes to reduce the chance of “missed shifts”. Patented adjustable bias spring loads on most models allow stick tension to be tailored to drivers preference. Dedicated applications assure a custom fit and eliminate any vehicle modifications for ease of installation.
• CNC machined 6061 T-6 BILLET ALUMINUM base and stop collar
• Heat treated BILLET STEEL gear selector for ultimate strength
• High strength steel stick. NOT A CASTING!
• Adjustable positive gear stops to help prevent internal transmission damage
• Stainless steel rotating pivot insures smooth shifting and reduced wear
• Polymide pivot cup reduces stick vibration and noise transfer
• Self centering alignment for improved 2nd to 3rd upshift gear changes
• Patented adjustable bias spring load for ease of operation
• Exclusive oil control seal, on most models, to eliminate trans fluid loss and protect against contamination
Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!
Published on 2013-07-31 Jmac shows you how to install the new Econoshift Mustang short throw shifter for your stang equipped with a T45 or a T5 transmission. This billet shifter helps reduce the travel in between gears to get a quicker and more positive shift while giving your Mustang the nostalgic appearance. It will have your Mustang powershifting in no time.This not only improves your driving experience but it helps keep excessive ware off of your transmissions internal parts. At this affordable price and with free shipping, how could you not want one?! Don't forget to add a new 5.0Resto, SVE, Steeda, Hurst or Ford Racing Mustang shift knob to finish off your short throw shift install
Features & Benefits Short Throw Shifting Precise Gear Changes Prolonged Transmission Life Nostalgic Styling Easy Installation Billet Shifter Design Positive Shift Stops Self Centering Alignment Fits T5/T45 Transmission
Published on 2012-10-09 Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to remove a Mustang center console. To gain access to certain parts on your Fox Mustang, you will need to remove your center console. Some of the most common reasons to remove your center console are to replace old worn out components such as Ash Tray Doors, Lower Shift Boots or even old dirty carpet. The removal process is extremely easy and can be done in less than 30 minutes. Check out some of these common restoration parts used while removing your center console.
Use only 5.0Resto Mustang parts on your Project Fox Body Mustang!!! 50Resto parts are the perfect addition to your American muscle Mustang Project!
Published on 2013-01-23 Stock Mustang shifters have tons of room for improvement. One option to help alleviate your stock clunky shifter is the Steeda Tri-ax shifter. Watch the video as Jmac shows you how to install a Steeda Tri-ax short throw shifter on a 99-04 Mustang GT. Installation is nearly identical for the 94-98 model Mustangs. If you need help with installation on your Fox Mustang be sure to check out our Fox Mustang Shifter Install Video for more details.
The Steeda Tri-Ax starts with precision CNC machined billet aluminum body. The body's heavy-duty construction features no welds, stampings or castings for ultimate durability and precision engineering to fit right.
The nickel-plated shaft won't rust or stain, and has been machined to exacting tolerances for smooth, precise operation. Offset pre-load springs make sure you find third gear every time and adjustable positive stops prevent damage to the transmission.
Up top, the Tri-Ax features an exclusive boot guard to prevent damage to the factory inner boot, two-position adjustable handle height and a new forged Tri-Ax shift handle. The forged aluminum handle is strongest and lightest handle available on the market. Its unique three-axis bend places the shift knob closer to the driver for fast, precise and comfortable shifts
Steeda Tri-ax shifters are available for the following transmissions: T-45, T-5, 3550, TKO 500/600, TR-3650, and T-56
Now our shifter here has a broken shift stop. It keeps backing out and causing some shifting issues. So we're going to go ahead and pull it out of the way and throw in one of our economy shifters. This thing right here is bad to the bone. You're going to have such a shorter shift throw than your stock shifter. It's made out of billet, light weight, has integrated shift stops in it, with lock nuts. That way, you won't have to worry about damaging your T-5 or T-45 transmission.
Now to remove your existing shifter, a 13 millimeter or half inch socket is all you need. Simply pull out the four bolts that hold in the existing shifter. And then break the seal between shifter and the transmission. Pick it up out of the way. Clean the entire area on top of the transmission. Apply a fresh [INAUDIBLE] of Permatech's Ultra Black or something similar. And then you can bolt your new shifter into place.
Now that we've got the new bead of silicone laid into place, went ahead and throw the economy shifter down, tightened up the first three bolts. Now the economy shifter comes with new Allen head hardware and washers to attach it to the transmission. Takes a six millimeter Allen head to tighten those into place. Go ahead and run the last one down here. Just double check the pattern. Catty corner.
All right. Now we're going to set the shift stops. Go ahead and slide it up into third gear. Take your six millimeter Allen socket and run the shift stop in until it barely touches the shifter handle, and then back it out about an eighth of a turn. And then tighten down the lock nut with an adjustable wrench.
And we'll do the same thing. Pull it down into fourth gear. Run that shifter stop up til it barely touches, back it off about an eighth of a turn, and tighten down that lock nut.
Now your shifter stops are set. You won't have to worry about damaging the shift forks inside your transmission. Now we can go ahead and take the lower shift boot, slide it back into place. Unlike some aftermarket shifters, you do not have to trim your shift boot with our economy shifter. Just work it around. Throw your four bolts in. And then you can grab your new handle and slide it into place.
Now this handle has two positions it can be in, fully down or up. We're going to go for the up position here. It has talent Allen head bolts that hold it into place. We recommend a little bit of blue or red Lock Tight to keep these things from backing out. And it takes a five millimeter Allen head to get these into place.
Now once you get these bolts tightened up, you can go ahead, throw in your console, and enjoy your new shifter. Now for more interior restoration videos and tech tips, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. Jmac here with more interior tech. Today we're going to be showing you how to remove your center console. Now removing your center console is necessary to gain access to your shifter or even just your lower shifter boot.
Now it is a little involved, so follow along and we'll show you step by step what needs to be done. We're going to start by removing your center console armrest. Go ahead and pop off your oval plug and grab you a 5/16 or 8-millimeter socket, and you can remove the two bolts on each side that hold the armrest onto the console.
Repeat that process for the other side. I already have ours done. So you can just pick straight up on the armrest and it'll come free of the console.
You can set it out of the way, and we'll move up here to the shifter handle. Just pop up your shifter boot and bezel. You can just pick it up. And then remove the two bolts that hold onto your shifter handle.
Now every shifter's going to have a different piece of hardware holding it on, so you're going to use anywhere from a 10-millimeter to a 13-millimeter socket, or even an Allen-head socket for some aftermarket shifters. You just remove those two bolts to get that handle out of the way.
Then go ahead and remove your AC trim bezel. That just snaps out of place really easily. And grab you a set of radio removal tools. If you still have the stock radio, we have these available on our website. If you've got an aftermarket radio in your car, you have four screws holding in the adapter plate, so you can pull those four screws out to gain access to the back of the radio.
Engage those into place. Pull out and straight back on the radio. And unplug your antenna and then your two electrical connectors from the back. Set that out of the way.
Now we can move on over here to the driver's side. You're going after remove your lower column cover. It's held on by two Phillips' head screws. You've got one over here by the key release button. Get it out of the way. And then one over here, right underneath the lock cylinder. And then your lower column cover comes free. Make sure and keep your screws with it, because you don't want to be hunting around for screws later.
Now your plastic cover, trim cover, for the bottom of the dash, it's held on at the bottom with three screws, and it's got two push clips up here. This car is already missing one screw. It's 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. Go ahead and pull those out of the way.
And grab hold of the panel and pull straight back to disengage the clips. You can set it out of the way. Then you've got this metal trim piece. It's held on, again, with two bolts. It's got either 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. We want to pull those out of the way. Then that metal plate comes free.
Now you want to drop your glove box, open it up, and then push in on both sides, and then it'll completely fall down. Because you have two Phillips-head screws on this side and two Phillips-head screws on this side that you need to remove.
Now you can go ahead and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the front of the console top panel. Then the two Phillips-head screws at the back of the console top panel. Pull up on your E-brake handle and you can take your console top panel up and off.
Then disconnect your two electrical connections-- one for the cigarette lighter and then the other one for the power mirror switch, if your car's equipped. Then your console top panel is free. Now you have two more Phillips-head screws at the back of the console that need to come out.
And now your console is free. Lower your E-brake handle back down, pick up on the back of the console, and pull straight back. Lift up, and you've got an electrical connector over here for your trunk release. It simply pops out of place, and your console is free from the car.
Now to reinstall your console, you would just simply reverse these removal steps. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
JONATHAN MCDONALD: Now, we've already showed you how to install a shifter on your Fox Mustang, so now we're going to show you how on a '94 to '04, and it's significantly easier, because you don't have to pull the entire console.
Now, the centerpiece today is going to be the Steeda Tri-Ax shifter. They have these available in all varieties to fit just about every transmission that's been in the Mustang or that you can put in a Mustang. Now, these feature solid billet construction for the utmost in strength with the lightest weight.
Now, you've got multiple shifter handle height locations. That way, you can set you height comfortably. And the shifter handle itself is offset toward you. That way, you have a very comfortable reach over to your shifter. The base itself is sprung so, no matter what, it returns right back to the center, which is your 3-4 location.
It comes with a rubber insulator that goes in between the shifter and the shifter handle to kind of cut out a little bit of the noise. And Steeda's the only one to offer this, this little ring, which goes over top of the shifter. It's a lower shifter boot protector. It keeps your rubber lower shifter boot from getting caught up in the shifter stops and getting all torn up. And unlike some other shifters on the market, you do not have to modify your lower shifter boot in any way to install this shifter.
It comes with all the needed hardware and, basically, the only thing you have to provide is a tube of silicone to reseal it to the transmission. Let's go ahead and move into the car and I'll show you how to take everything apart.
The first step to removing your stock shifter, go ahead and set your parking brake. Then remove your shifter knob-- grab hold and unscrew. Go ahead and set that out of the way, then slide the boot up off of the handle. Grab hold of the shifter bezel and pull the four clips loose and then unplug your power point.
Now, you want to grab you a 10 millimeter socket or wrench to remove the stock shifter bolts. Grab your handle and remove it from the stock shifter base, and then you can grab you a ratchet with an 8 millimeter or 5/16 socket and remove your lower shifter boot. You want to keep those screws handy because you will be reusing them.
And what those four out of the way, you can go ahead and pull up the lower shifter boot. Basically, what you're going to want to do is free it from the transmission tunnel, slide it forward and pull up on the passenger side, and then slide it over to get the driver side clear of the console, and then pull it out from the back straight out.
Now you've got your stock shifter base exposed, and you'll grab your ratchet and extension with a 13 millimeter or a 1/2 inch socket. Go ahead and remove all four of the stock shifter bolts, and you can go ahead and toss them to the side because you won't be reusing them. And then you can break the shifter base loose, and you may need to grab you a little pry bar or a screwdriver or something to break the silicone free. And then remove the shifter base from the transmission.
Go ahead and pull the shifter base up and don't toss it to the side just yet, because you have to remove your little plastic insulator bushing if your car is equipped with a 3650. If you've got a T5 or a T45, the insulator bushing stays in the transmission. Now, a pair of pliers, typically, will get this off. Or sometimes, you can even pull it off by hand, but not this one.
Then you can just gently pry it off and let it fly. There we go. Then clean it up a little bit. This is a dirty job, so go ahead and have plenty of paper towels or rags around to keep yourself clean.
Now you can go ahead and pop that insulator back onto the new shifter. It'll take a little bit of effort. There we go. Now, I'm going to clean up all the old silicone off of the transmission, get it all prepped up, put a new bead of silicone on it. I prefer to use Permatex Ultra Black. You can use pretty much anything that you like. I just prefer this because it seals and it doesn't harden. That way, you don't have to worry about it leaking over time.
So, I'm going to go ahead and get this cleaned up, then we'll come back and show you and put in your new Steeda shifter.
All right, the one thing to remember about silicone is it doesn't take a whole lot to get the job done. You want to put just a thin bead all the way around, and you don't just want to slather it all over the place. Because you're dealing with two machined surfaces, so they're going to mate flat and squeeze out any excess. And you want that excess to go toward what you're trying to seal out, which is your oil-- or, actually, seal in.
Then line up your bushing and lower the shifter down into place. And Steeda supplies four new attaching bolts. Go ahead and start those into place. All right. Go ahead and tighten down all four of your bolts, and they don't have to be super torqued, just tight.
Then after that, we're going to set our shifter stops. And what these shifter stops do is keep you from overextending your shift forward during aggressive shifting. To do that, slide the handle forward into the third gear and run your shifter stop bolt out until it touches the shifter handle. And you want to keep a little bit of pressure on the handle. That way, it's as far forward as it can go. And then whenever it comes into contact, back it off one complete flat.
Now Steeda calls for 10 1/1000ths of an inch air gap, and unless you're just really meticulous, you can pull out your feeler gauge and actually check that air gap. But typically, backing off one flat will give you ample air space. And the reason you don't want it touching is because it doesn't have to be in full contact during normal shifting. You just want it there to stop the shifter handle from going too far forward.
Now, once you get it set properly, you have a jam nut that you run up against the base of the shifter. And you want to grab you a couple of 1/2 inch wrenches, one to hold the stop bolt in place and the other to go ahead and tighten down the jam nut. OK, and then to do the other one, you want to pull it down into second gear and repeat.
Now you want to check, run it through every gear to make sure that there's no contact issues. All right, we're good to go. Now we can install the Steeda exclusive little washer that protects your lower shift boot. It slides down over the handle and, unlike other shifters on the market, like I said, you do not have to modify your lower shifter boot in any way, shape, or form.
Go ahead and slide it down into place. Engage the handle through the hole and slide the driver side portion of the trim ring up underneath the console. And go ahead and line everything up into place. Then you will grab your four bolts that you removed earlier and go ahead and run those down into place.
OK, once you get your lower shifter boot bolts tightened down, we can go ahead and put on the Tri-Ax handle. Now, Steeda supplies this little rubber gasket, and it's going to go in between the shifter handle and the shifter base. Now you've got two height adjustments. You can have a higher shifter placement or a lower handle placement. For this one, we're going to go a little bit higher.
Slide you two bolts that Steeda supplies through the handle. And these are also 1/2 inch, so you can use your 1/2 inch wrench or ratchet to go ahead and snug those down into place. OK, and once you get those two bolts snugged up, Steeda supplies two jam nuts to keep them from loosening. And you want to throw that on the opposite side and then snug both of those down. And that will keep your shifter handle bolts from coming loose. All right.
Now we can go ahead, plug our power point back in, slide the boot over the new handle, and snap our shifter bezel back into place. All right. Now we can go ahead and screw the shifter knob back on. All right.
Get it tightened down, check your operation there, and you're done. You just improved your shifting, you've saved your transmission, and, man, it's just kind of cool to have a shifter in a car and you don't have to feel all the slop from the stock rubber bushings. Now, for more drive train tips and other Mustang tech, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
I can't say enough about the sales and support team of latemodelresto. The videos they provide are great for guidance on the installation. Very happy customer again, RB. Thanks. After reviewing several manual shifters for my 1984 Ford Mustang GT, I decided on this one as an upgrade. Dude, what a difference this shifter made to my shifting experience.The feel is awesome, you will not be disappointed with this shifter. The instructions are easy to follow; however, the latemodel resto installation video on shifter install is extremely helpful as well.
Hurst shifters are by far known as being one of the most popular and sought after aftermarket mods for Mustangs and Lightings. If you are running a Hurst shifter you know what we are talking about. The precision and quality of a these Mustang shifters is what sets Hurst so far ahead of the competition. Shop LatemodelRestoration.com for your Hurst shifters, shift knobs, shift balls, roll control kits, and other shifter components.
Working in a customer service oriented job I can truly appreciate minute by minute notifications and incredible customer service. I am building my seventh fox and have dealt with every known distributor on the planet and LMR is by far the most efficient and thorough company I have dealt with.(twisted wedge top end kit and supporting equipment project starting this week)