Grab the handle of a Hammer shifter and it feels like it was molded to your hand. The unique design easily fits small to large hands and provides the appropriate wrist angle. The multi-position trigger is spoon-shaped for easy finger operation in a multitude of grip positions. The result is a shifter which is perfect for almost any latemodel Mustang. Get your hands on a Hammer! Dimensions measure 13.55” long, 10.07” high and 6.25” wide.
- Unique multi-positioned trigger for user comfort in various shifter positions.
- Reverse lockout feature meets NHRA and IHRA requirements.
- Includes neutral safety switch, backup light switch, lighted gear indicator & polished aluminum T-Handle.
- Can be used with a reverse pattern valve body.
Ideal for 1987-93 Ford Mustang console applications. It has a full ratchet action mechanism for positive upshifts and downshifts. When shifting the Mustang Console Hammer from Neutral or Reverse to Park positions, just lift the trigger and ratchet the shifter forward for each position. Must be installed in cars originally equipped with automatic transmissions. Modification to the transmission tunnel is required if you're using this shifter on a standard-to-automatic conversion.
* * * NOTE: This Shifter is designed to re-use your factory shifter cable. If Doing a manual to automatic conversion, you must purchase a separate shifter cable as well.* * *
Follow along in the video as Jmac shows you how to remove a Mustang center console. To gain access to certain parts on your Fox Mustang, you will need to remove your center console. Some of the most common reasons to remove your center console are to replace old worn out components such as Ash Tray Doors, Lower Shift Boots or even old dirty carpet. The removal process is extremely easy and can be done in less than 30 minutes. Check out some of these common restoration parts used while removing your center console.
Use only 5.0Resto Mustang parts on your Project Fox Body Mustang!!! 50Resto parts are the perfect addition to your American muscle Mustang Project!
JONATHAN MCDONALD: Hey, everybody. Jmac here with more interior tech. Today we're going to be showing you how to remove your center console. Now removing your center console is necessary to gain access to your shifter or even just your lower shifter boot.
Now it is a little involved, so follow along and we'll show you step by step what needs to be done. We're going to start by removing your center console armrest. Go ahead and pop off your oval plug and grab you a 5/16 or 8-millimeter socket, and you can remove the two bolts on each side that hold the armrest onto the console.
Repeat that process for the other side. I already have ours done. So you can just pick straight up on the armrest and it'll come free of the console.
You can set it out of the way, and we'll move up here to the shifter handle. Just pop up your shifter boot and bezel. You can just pick it up. And then remove the two bolts that hold onto your shifter handle.
Now every shifter's going to have a different piece of hardware holding it on, so you're going to use anywhere from a 10-millimeter to a 13-millimeter socket, or even an Allen-head socket for some aftermarket shifters. You just remove those two bolts to get that handle out of the way.
Then go ahead and remove your AC trim bezel. That just snaps out of place really easily. And grab you a set of radio removal tools. If you still have the stock radio, we have these available on our website. If you've got an aftermarket radio in your car, you have four screws holding in the adapter plate, so you can pull those four screws out to gain access to the back of the radio.
Engage those into place. Pull out and straight back on the radio. And unplug your antenna and then your two electrical connectors from the back. Set that out of the way.
Now we can move on over here to the driver's side. You're going after remove your lower column cover. It's held on by two Phillips' head screws. You've got one over here by the key release button. Get it out of the way. And then one over here, right underneath the lock cylinder. And then your lower column cover comes free. Make sure and keep your screws with it, because you don't want to be hunting around for screws later.
Now your plastic cover, trim cover, for the bottom of the dash, it's held on at the bottom with three screws, and it's got two push clips up here. This car is already missing one screw. It's 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. Go ahead and pull those out of the way.
And grab hold of the panel and pull straight back to disengage the clips. You can set it out of the way. Then you've got this metal trim piece. It's held on, again, with two bolts. It's got either 5/16 or 8-millimeter head. We want to pull those out of the way. Then that metal plate comes free.
Now you want to drop your glove box, open it up, and then push in on both sides, and then it'll completely fall down. Because you have two Phillips-head screws on this side and two Phillips-head screws on this side that you need to remove.
Now you can go ahead and remove the two Phillips-head screws at the front of the console top panel. Then the two Phillips-head screws at the back of the console top panel. Pull up on your E-brake handle and you can take your console top panel up and off.
Then disconnect your two electrical connections-- one for the cigarette lighter and then the other one for the power mirror switch, if your car's equipped. Then your console top panel is free. Now you have two more Phillips-head screws at the back of the console that need to come out.
And now your console is free. Lower your E-brake handle back down, pick up on the back of the console, and pull straight back. Lift up, and you've got an electrical connector over here for your trunk release. It simply pops out of place, and your console is free from the car.
Now to reinstall your console, you would just simply reverse these removal steps. For more interior restoration videos, check out latemodelrestoration.com.
Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!
I got this for my birthday from my father and I am not sure where he ordered it from but seeing as I do 95% of my shopping for my Mustang here I figured that I would review it here. This shifter is awesome! I was a little stumped at first as it took me the better part of a weekend to get it working right. The actual install was pretty smooth and relatively painless. My problem came when I would try and shift... I would get nothing. Come to find out, after several hours on the phone with the guys at B&M that there was a spring off the ratchet mechanism. Once that was back in place it worked like a dream.
I am going on having this in for 3 months now and I am glad I made the change. I get solid shifts when I want without overshooting the gear I am looking for. My wife calls it a lazy mans manual... Regardless of her opinion this is outstanding. I installed this when I was having the transmission serviced and a B&M Street/Strip shift kit installed. Between the 2 I am more than impressed with the performance upgrade it gave me. Even running behind a mostly stock engine I can tell the difference, and I am sure I will be even more impressed once I finish with the engine rebuild here in a week or so.
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Easy to install
Jason E. on
Installed three days ago. Great price very easy to install and to use.
Yes, I would recommend this item to a friend!
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B&M Shifter installation
Steve G. on
on my 1989 GT convertible when you line up the shift indicator light appropriately the indicator fork will slip off of the brass drive pin and then will no longer move. I called B&M and they were rude and un helpful. I believe this could be fixed by taking a small bike chain outter link and using it to offset the pin slightly to ensure full engagement.
B&M - Racing and Performance Products
Since the very early 1950s, B&M has been at the top of the growing automotive aftermarket. Racers themselves, B&M’s founders identified the needs of local racers and street performance enthusiasts, and developed products to fill those needs. As the industry grew so did B&M. And as racers went faster, B&M developed products to help them break the records they just set.
In the 50s it was B&M who came up with the idea of using a performance reinforced Hydramatic for racing. In the 60s it was B&M who developed shifters to go along with it, and later in the decade came race converters. In the 70s shift and transmission improving kits, and always the constant refinements and expansion of existing product lines.
If you’ve ever raced a Mustang, or SVT Lightning with an automatic transmission, high stall torque converter, an aftermarket automatic shifter, or performance enhancing shifting kit, thank B&M. Shop B&M Mustang shifters, shift kits, and transmission components at LatemodelRestoration.com.
This is my '87 GT Convertible. It is only 1 of 164 made that year in a very rare color of Bright Regatta Blue Metallic. It has the factory 302 HO and has a Tremec T5 tranny. The odometer reads 125k mi...